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Tandem Cycling A bicycle built for two. Want to find out more about this wonderful world of tandems? Check out this forum to talk with other tandem enthusiasts. Captains and stokers welcome!

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Old 06-17-12, 07:05 PM   #1
rdtompki
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WI Rear HUB Question

(Note: I'm deleting a similar post from Bicycle Mechanics due to no response. I know several who post here use WI hubs)

I've developed some lateral play in my rear hub(MI6). I've disassembled and understand that the lateral play can be taken out, and the sealed bearings appear to be very smooth. Anyone know what causes this play to occur? Something must be wearing one would think. Has anyone else experienced this? I know Tandemgeek recommended in one of his many excellent posts adjusting the hubs after some miles, but mine had gone almost 8000 miles without any problem whatsoever.

My (tandem) LBS has seen this when the hub was installed in spread dropouts, but I measured my dropouts with a micrometer and was only .7mm over 145mm. Left the wheel at the LBS to reassemble, but these hubs are obviously pretty easy to work on. I've been planning on buying a second wheel set in any event and will be using these as backups or for rough roads.

BTW, this explains why my RD shifting had deteriorated. What a relief.
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Old 06-17-12, 07:59 PM   #2
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Sometimes the pre-load collars just walk a bit. If you catch it through periodic maintenance and re-set the preload to take out the slop no worries. Checking the pre-load is rather easy: just push the front or rear wheel side to side from the top of the wheel and if you feel a distinctive amount of play, chances are the pre-load needs to be re-set.

If excess play is left unchecked, the axle will begin to show signs of excessive wear at the inner bearing races and will eventually uneven pawl engagement and it goes downhill from there. The front axle pre-load caps are even more prone to this since they only have one grub screw vs. the 3 grub screws on the rear pre-load cap.

On the bright side, and as a friend recently discovered, all of the hub guts can be replaced given that the shell and the rest of the wheel are not affected by any of this stuff.
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Old 06-17-12, 08:22 PM   #3
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TG,
Thanks for the response. I think it's a pure coincidence that I first noticed the shifting problem when I switched cassettes. Now that I know what to expect it's easy enough to check whenever the bike is on the stand (which is 2-3 times/week). Otherwise, seems to be a good design. I'd sure like back the several hours I spent chasing down my shifting problem
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