Freehub not attached to tandem hub?
07-19-12, 08:33 AM
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Freehub not attached to tandem hub?
Last weekend I noticed a broken spoke on the non-drive side of the rear wheel. When replacing the spoke I noticed that the cassette had moved away from the hub, I've changed flats on the rear wheel numerous times but have never seen this. I was able to push it back into the hub but I'm totally lost about how the freehub interfaces to the wheel. I put the wheel back on the tandem and tighten the skewer and everything turns fine, the freehub is held in place by the pressure of the skewer against the drop-outs. This dosn't seem right to me.
I did some "googling" and my hub looks a lot like a Campaganolo but I'm not sure what it really is. I guess my first question is are tandem hubs different from single hubs? My rear wheel has what I'd call spacers on both side of the wheel.
I did some "googling" and my hub looks a lot like a Campaganolo but I'm not sure what it really is. I guess my first question is are tandem hubs different from single hubs? My rear wheel has what I'd call spacers on both side of the wheel.
07-19-12, 09:11 AM
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Most cassettes attach with a 10mm 11mm 12mm or 14mm hex wrench. 7/16 inch will work in an 11mm bolt. Take the axle out and see if there is a hollow bolt in there https://www.flickr.com/photos/6337399...in/photostream they do come loose. Campagnolo did make a tandem hub used on the Schwinn Paramount these are sealed bearing and there are probably only 3 people in the world who know to repair them.
07-19-12, 09:30 AM
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On the White Industries hubs there is a ring held in place by several small grub screws. this ring applies preset to the bearings. My ring had loosened to the entire freehub/cassette assembly had more than 1mm of laterally play completely disrupting the shifting. Just an example of what can go wrong.
07-19-12, 02:00 PM
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Did the cassette slide outward on the freehub splined body? Or did the body detach from the hub?
Cassettes usually are attached to the freehub body with a threaded ring outboard of the smallest cog. If this is lost, the freehub "could" continue to work but could slide out as you describe. You will need to find the hub brand as the lockrings vary.
Cassettes usually are attached to the freehub body with a threaded ring outboard of the smallest cog. If this is lost, the freehub "could" continue to work but could slide out as you describe. You will need to find the hub brand as the lockrings vary.
Last edited by loose spoke; 07-19-12 at 02:02 PM. Reason: error
07-20-12, 06:43 AM
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Did the cassette slide outward on the freehub splined body? Or did the body detach from the hub?
Cassettes usually are attached to the freehub body with a threaded ring outboard of the smallest cog. If this is lost, the freehub "could" continue to work but could slide out as you describe. You will need to find the hub brand as the lockrings vary.
Cassettes usually are attached to the freehub body with a threaded ring outboard of the smallest cog. If this is lost, the freehub "could" continue to work but could slide out as you describe. You will need to find the hub brand as the lockrings vary.
07-20-12, 07:37 AM
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The attached photo shows a cassett still mounted to the freehub body. It was removed from the hub by inserting allen wrenches in each end of the axel and removing the caps. Actually only one cap needs to be removed. In the photo the right cap is still on the axel.
07-20-12, 07:41 AM
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Note that most "modular" and user-serviceable hubs will always allow you to remove the cassette and freehub as a single assembly from the hub shell; that's not a big deal. Some use fixing hardware to keep the axle in place, others don't. If you have a press-fit, then the cassette & freehub do simply pop-out of the hub body for routine maintenance, i.e., cleaning & relubrication of the pawl ratchets.
Again, some hub makers use axle nuts (Phil Wood, pictured above), some use a pre-load collar with grub screws (White Ind, Chris King) and some are just press-fit (DT/Swiss, DT/Hugi, Hope). I'm not positive, but Chosen may also use a press fit.
07-22-12, 07:30 PM
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Please do. If there isn't a brand name stamped into the hub shell -- which is a bit unusual -- then it may be a Chosen hub, as I believe Tandems East has been using those for a while on their value-priced wheelsets / build kits.
Note that most "modular" and user-serviceable hubs will always allow you to remove the cassette and freehub as a single assembly from the hub shell; that's not a big deal. Some use fixing hardware to keep the axle in place, others don't. If you have a press-fit, then the cassette & freehub do simply pop-out of the hub body for routine maintenance, i.e., cleaning & relubrication of the pawl ratchets.
Again, some hub makers use axle nuts (Phil Wood, pictured above), some use a pre-load collar with grub screws (White Ind, Chris King) and some are just press-fit (DT/Swiss, DT/Hugi, Hope). I'm not positive, but Chosen may also use a press fit.
Note that most "modular" and user-serviceable hubs will always allow you to remove the cassette and freehub as a single assembly from the hub shell; that's not a big deal. Some use fixing hardware to keep the axle in place, others don't. If you have a press-fit, then the cassette & freehub do simply pop-out of the hub body for routine maintenance, i.e., cleaning & relubrication of the pawl ratchets.
Again, some hub makers use axle nuts (Phil Wood, pictured above), some use a pre-load collar with grub screws (White Ind, Chris King) and some are just press-fit (DT/Swiss, DT/Hugi, Hope). I'm not positive, but Chosen may also use a press fit.
07-22-12, 07:49 PM
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From the one photo / angle, it looks like a DT Hugi tandem hub given the left-side threading and end cap & spacers for an Arai drum brake vs. a disc rotor adapter that you typically find on the newer DT Swiss 540 hubs.
Here is a link to Park Tool's hub maintenance page / link to the DT Hugi "Star Ratchet" servicing instructions. What you described, i.e., the hub is press-fit... would fit the appearance of your hub: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...hub-service#dt
It just pulls apart, gets pressed backed together, and the frame's drop-outs and skewer are an integral part of how the hub stays together during use and under load.
Here is a link to Park Tool's hub maintenance page / link to the DT Hugi "Star Ratchet" servicing instructions. What you described, i.e., the hub is press-fit... would fit the appearance of your hub: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...hub-service#dt
It just pulls apart, gets pressed backed together, and the frame's drop-outs and skewer are an integral part of how the hub stays together during use and under load.
Last edited by TandemGeek; 07-22-12 at 07:54 PM.
07-22-12, 08:22 PM
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From the one photo / angle, it looks like a DT Hugi tandem hub given the left-side threading and end cap & spacers for an Arai drum brake vs. a disc rotor adapter that you typically find on the newer DT Swiss 540 hubs.
Here is a link to Park Tool's hub maintenance page / link to the DT Hugi "Star Ratchet" servicing instructions. What you described, i.e., the hub is press-fit... would fit the appearance of your hub: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...hub-service#dt
It just pulls apart, gets pressed backed together, and the frame's drop-outs and skewer are an integral part of how the hub stays together during use and under load.
Here is a link to Park Tool's hub maintenance page / link to the DT Hugi "Star Ratchet" servicing instructions. What you described, i.e., the hub is press-fit... would fit the appearance of your hub: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...hub-service#dt
It just pulls apart, gets pressed backed together, and the frame's drop-outs and skewer are an integral part of how the hub stays together during use and under load.
I would add that the freehub and cassette if installed is retained by the press fit as mentioned. However the press fit is secured only by a small "O"ring. Probably mentioned in the linked instructions.
Removal of the "O"ring facilitates routine maintenance. Let the QR hold it together.
PK
