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  1. #1
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    Right side timing chain

    Here are a couple of (poor quality) pics of the right side timing chain I have just put on our bike.
    It seems to be working very well, and lets you use a standard crankset. DA 7800 in our case.


  2. #2
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
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    Interesting. Can you provide a list of parts?

    Also, would smaller 130BCD timing rings work?

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    I made some longer tube nuts and spacers to mount the extra chainring on the stokers crank. Using a smaller timing ring is dependent on the clearance between the crank arm and the large chainring. On these cranks the clearance gets less as you go smaller so had to use a 53t to get it to fit.

  4. #4
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean V View Post
    I made some longer tube nuts and spacers to mount the extra chainring on the stokers crank. Using a smaller timing ring is dependent on the clearance between the crank arm and the large chainring. On these cranks the clearance gets less as you go smaller so had to use a 53t to get it to fit.
    but with much smaller timing rings, you wouldn't need quite as much space between the timing ring and the drive big ring as you have now due to the side-by-side chain scenario. Perhaps you already reviewed this?

    what mfr/model are the big rings from?

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    The clearance requirement is the same either way as the chains need to clear each other as the timing chain goes forward past the drive chain.
    Chainrings are all DA7800 except for the timing ring on the stoker cranks. That is Utegra 6600.

  6. #6
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean V View Post
    The clearance requirement is the same either way as the chains need to clear each other as the timing chain goes forward past the drive chain.
    Chainrings are all DA7800 except for the timing ring on the stoker cranks. That is Utegra 6600.
    Oh, but of course. For some reason I was thinking of the inside same-side setup as is shown here:
    http://www.paketabikes.com/index.cfm?page=traveltandem

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    How did you adjust the chainline for the timing chain? If the timing ring on the front cranks is mounted directly on the spider, and the one on the rear cranks is spaced outward, the chainline won't match unless you made some other change. Or does it not matter?

  8. #8
    Nigel nfmisso's Avatar
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    BB length, spacer/shims or a combination there of.
    Nigel
    Mechanical Design Engineer

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    certified vegetarian veggie's Avatar
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    This is something I may consider. I am trying to make a tandem crank set out of some Campy centaur single bike cranks I have. I have a pair of doubles and was considering getting another ds crank and helicoiling a few of them to create a traditional setup. Then I thought about getting a triple and doing a single sided crankset using the inner of the triple. But I am having a hard time finding a triple crank and I'm realizing i will have to play with spindle lengths. So doing it on the outside would be great.

  10. #10
    PMK
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    The all right side drive is cool. We ran one on our off-road tandem for a while. One thing done different than what is posted here, is that our outside chainring, used for timing was a few teeth smaller than the "big ring". This ensured that when making an upshift, the drive chain and timing chains would not touch and prevented lifting the drivechain even further, similar to a pinned / ramped chainring.

    Obviously, most times shifting on-road is fairly smooth and effortless. Off-road, we had some times where it was awesome and other times where dirt, sand and mud would give the shifting fits.

    PK
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  11. #11
    Senior Member waynesulak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    The all right side drive is cool. We ran one on our off-road tandem for a while. One thing done different than what is posted here, is that our outside chainring, used for timing was a few teeth smaller than the "big ring". This ensured that when making an upshift, the drive chain and timing chains would not touch and prevented lifting the drivechain even further, similar to a pinned / ramped chainring.

    Obviously, most times shifting on-road is fairly smooth and effortless. Off-road, we had some times where it was awesome and other times where dirt, sand and mud would give the shifting fits.

    PK

    What made you go back to a left side sync chain?

  12. #12
    PMK
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    Quote Originally Posted by waynesulak View Post
    What made you go back to a left side sync chain?
    One strike was having to un-jamb the drive chain during an off-road training ride at night, in a rain storm, with wind driving the rain sideways, and lightning tossed in for good measure.

    Strike two, at the last couple of miles during a 24 hour / 170 mile primarily off-road non supported time trial, we had the chain jamb a couple of times. No trouble for over 160 miles of all day / all night and it got temperamental in the last few miles. Easily cost us a sub 24 hour time.

    Strike three, Tour De Felasco off-road event, after several de-railed chains, decided just to finish no more front shifts. Way to much super low rpm's just to finish.

    Worked excellent when it worked, failed miserably when it decided to not work.

    PK
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by WheelsNT View Post
    How did you adjust the chainline for the timing chain? If the timing ring on the front cranks is mounted directly on the spider, and the one on the rear cranks is spaced outward, the chainline won't match unless you made some other change. Or does it not matter?
    Didn't bother to adjust the front chainline. The angle of misalignment is very small. Much less than what the drive chain has in most gears.

  14. #14
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    Will someone please explain to me the advantage/advantages of RH side drive.

    Thanks,

    Wayne

  15. #15
    Senior Member colotandem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DubT View Post
    Will someone please explain to me the advantage/advantages of RH side drive.

    Thanks,

    Wayne
    I will share my .02 cents, but I'm no engineer. The primary reason we set up our MTB tandem with right side timing chain was to be able to use standard cranks. No more, no less. I suppose there could be a small amount of weight savings, but that was not our goal. I just wanted to see if we could build our tandem with cheaper cranks that did not use square taper cranks (harder to do with MTB vs road cranks).

    I will say that we had greater success than PMK and still have the right side drive set upon our hard tail 29er Fandango tandem. We rode some long distance races (50, 60, 70 & 100 mile off road) with maybe one dropped chain? Full disclosure, we have since built up another 29er tandem (this one is full suspension) and chose a more traditional 3x10 drivetrain with left side timing chain (yes square taper BB).
    Last edited by colotandem; 10-14-12 at 06:41 PM.

  16. #16
    PMK
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    As colotandem knows, and we have talked about these off-road right side drives, two near identical bikes, both ridden off-road, however 2500 miles apart and different terrain, so maybe that's one reason to consider his a success and our intermittent success.

    All the more reason I have not given up on the concept or idea. However currently, we have two very reliable "normal" tandem setups.

    PK
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  17. #17
    Nigel nfmisso's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DubT View Post
    Will someone please explain to me the advantage/advantages of RH side drive.

    Thanks,

    Wayne
    Hi Wayne;

    Here is a good dicussion of the whys:
    http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tancrank.htm
    Nigel
    Mechanical Design Engineer

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