rahill

I've found the pad adjusters on each side of the Spyre caliper to back out during use, which is not exactly ideal. I'd welcome any solutions to stop that happening. Loctite isn't really viable because it gets cooked during normal use and stops providing any thread locking at all.

twocicle

This is not normal. Call TRP product support. They may send you a new caliper.

Leisesturm

The Smut Pedaller: TRP Spyre disc brake: Long term review

"What I have found though is that on the revised Spyre calipers, the new pad adjusters aren't too great, as once they are set they screwed in to set a pad position, they don't hold their adjustment. The screw must be loosening itself under use and resetting itself. I now compensate the brake for wear by using the cable adjuster and leave the pad adjusters wound all the way out. I suspect the problem is with the design, they are grub screws with a layer of thread lock on them, however I suspect under usage the heat renders it useless which causes it to reset. This seems like a poor workaround instead of locking it mechanically with a ratchet system like on Avid's BB7 calipers."

EDIT: There may be a high temperature formulation of Loctite available. I don't have my Spyres on the road yet. If I encounter this problem with them, I intend to source some high temperature thread-lock.

twocicle

The above is an example of improper adjustment. Do not use cable tension to adjust for pad wear as you will reduce the actuator arm range which can result in poor braking power.

marciero

Finally through with my brake odyssey for the time being, having replaced everything south of the levers. Now have Spyres, Ice Tech 203 rotors, Kool Stop sintered pads, compressionless cable housing (forget the brand-not the segmented aluminum. got a 50' roll for something like $60-70.)
All these have added up to some excellent performance on all kinds of terrain, including long, steep descents on dirt and pavement. I really noticed a difference with the pads also. They dont seem to be noisy as people have noted. One key was getting the spacers right so that the pad contacted the rotor about 1mm from the outside edge. The conical washers from canti brakes make it easy to get them aligned precisely with the rotors. I also had to widen the mounting holes. With proper alignment you can get the pads close as possible to the rotors for good lever actuation without bottoming out.

Juke41

Hi All, Is there a difinitive answer as to if the Hope Floating Rotor will fit with the TRP Spyres ?

Turbotandem

My hope rotor always had issues with the hope "rivets" grazing the the caliper body. I stopped trying to get the hope rotor to work a few years ago and haven't tried with any newer TRP bodies, so maybe they are better.

ksisler

================================

Check in at any auto parts store. They will have Loctite versions for high temp conditions. Generally the info on the tube will tell what the effective temp range is.

scycheng

I have the problem of the adjustment screw backing out under use. The replacement screws that TRP shipped me didn't solve the problem.

Looking at Loctite's website, medium strength thread adhesive comes with different temperature ranges: 2422 (-65F -650F), 246 goes up to 450F.

Is 246 good enough? Given the price of the high temperature formulations (almost as much as Chanel perfume on a per volume basis), I would hate to make a mistake.

twocicle

Yes, same experience here. The old "Hope Floating" rotors (w/round rotor edge) had lower rivets which in most cases miss most caliper bodies and mount adapters. The newer "Hope Floating" w/Saw type edge have the rivets closer the outside and that is problematic.

Another annoying thing with the "Hope Floating" rotors is rattling of the loose rivets and rotor on our road tandem. The rattling is probably no big deal for mtb usage, but on the road I like my bikes QUIET!

Luckily with the Shimano rs785 calipers, I found a solution to use inner tube "belts" on the finned brake pads, to eliminate their rattling within the caliper bodies.

Turbotandem

My rotors have hit 800-1,000 degrees. With organic pads I'd not think the more distant calipers would be over 500f. I'd assume 450f loctite is good.

Juke41

Bit the bullet and went ahead with the Hope 203 mm Floating Rotors, set up easily, bit of adjustment but no fouling of rivets, runs smooth.

kek

is it ok to use spyre caliper with 160mm xt rotors, no interference with spider ?

fietsbob

you can make slight adjustments under the caliper with shim washers . you know..

Paul J

I didn't see anyone writing about their experience with this brakes over time so thought I'd write something up.

We are now over a year and a half using the Spyre's on one of our tandems. It is a Co-Motion Speedster, which I'm guessing is a late 2014 model with the Lateral tube, when we purchased it new in spring 2016. We are both tall so are also a fairly heavy team at just over 400 LBS so we use our brakes. We have 3,500 miles on this bike and have had very good luck with these brakes, we are still on the OEM disc and pads which still look to have a nice margin of wear to go still. I've adjusted the pad clearance a few times using the in-and-out adjustments for each pad to adjust for wear. These stop better then on "V" brakes alone though haven't compared to the "V" brake with drag, as we have not had the more touring bike set-up with the drag brake on our Bushnell for some time. I have not experienced any squeal or warp through the duration of using these.

I've enjoyed using these brakes and felt bad the other week when we were riding with a couple whose bike had the Avid disc which were squealing and he wondered aloud why ours was so quiet. I'd love to do a back to back with the HY/RD as it sounds like they have corrected the adjustment issue some people were experiencing as the pads wore down.

Just some of my thoughts and observations.

gracehowler

Good info Paul. I, Being a career auto mechanic, I see the value in the dual design SPYRE is using, in automotive, it is quieter and works better than the single piston design. I have BB7 and gave into organic pads to keep the noise down.
R

punkgeek

Hi ya'll,

So I know nothing about the standards associated with disc brake adapters, and my searching has failed. Perhaps someone here knows the answer?

Problem: My oldish disc brake equipped KHS tandem (203mm disc on rear) needs new pads on the rear. But I've never really liked the single piston mechanical brakes (which seem to be a clone of some Avid brake?). However I love the TRP Spyre I have on my recumbent. Are Brake adapters standardized? I don't see a 203mm adapter listed on the TRP website. If I were to take the current brake off of the existing adapter, is the position standardized so I could just bolt on the Spyre?

(I was torn on reviving this old thread for my question or making a new one. I hope reviving was the right choice. ;-) )

Paul J

I will let others weigh in on this as I don't have the answer 200 or 203 disc size is pretty standard on most tandems so that shouldn't be an issue. You will just need to make sure your brake and the adapter work. YOu might want to consider the HY/RD brake as it will give you even better braking then the Spyre does.

Leisesturm

203mm adapters are indeed available for the Spyre/Spyke. We opted not to go for 203mm but are running 180 f/r. 160 f/r was getting the job done so I figured 180 gave a nice margin. I am thinking though of running 203 in front and 160 in the rear. The 180 adapter I have now in the rear becomes 203 when mounted up front. The 180 up front becomes 160 in the rear. Just need new rotors. 203 rotors ain't cheap. I can't justify f/r. I have 3 tandems to keep in the manner to which.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=49670

punkgeek

Thanks y'all. For future searchers: yep - brakes are apparently standardized and the spyre happily bolted onto the existing adapter. Best $40 upgrade ever.