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-   -   TRP Spyre mechanical brake = bee's knees? (http://www.bikeforums.net/tandem-cycling/878624-trp-spyre-mechanical-brake-bees-knees.html)

akexpress 05-25-13 10:02 AM

5 Attachment(s)
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=319147http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=319146http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=319143http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=319144http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=319145Received my TRP Hy/Rd brake caliper yesterday. I was surprised that it weights less then the Bengal caliper it replaces. 175 vs 187 grams. Quality looks very good. It was a very easy install although I did have to replace my inner brake cable as the routing is different and my original cable was too short. The housing was fine. Direct bolt on replacement other wise. My very initial impression is that it requires much less pressure on the brake lever (Shimano Ultegra Di2) then the mechanical brake does. I can squeeze the lever to the bar but on a short test ride down the block it had nice modulation and the braking very quickly got better as the pads seated and broke in. It easily skidded the rear tire although my stoker was not aboard. I will have a better evaluation after todays regular ride. This install was utilizing my already used Hope V2 non vented rotor. It has a nice feature for a travel bike in that it has a locking mechanism that can be engaged to prevent it from being actuated while traveling in the case.

dwmckee 05-28-13 08:59 PM

With the extra moving parts of two cylinders I was wondering if the Spyre was any more prone to squeal or chatter? Have any of you early adopters been able to gauge how quiet they are compared to a BB7? The weight savings is very impressive for the Spyre.

Turbotandem 05-29-13 01:19 PM

orderded TRP Spyre SLC by phone with Dave. He said I was the thirsd to say it was for a tandem. After which he read me the disclaimer that the brake is only warrentied for single person bikes. So tandem voids warrenty. Same as any disc brake I suppose. The web site only offers 160 or 180 packaged with a rotor at $110 for the SLC. Since I have a 203mm ICE rotor, I didn't need the rotor. He offered to knock off $10 or include some extra pads in exchange for the rotor. I'll receive them Friday, $5 shipping, and can confirm the posted 146g.

akexpress 05-29-13 02:34 PM

We don't have much time on the new brake but did one ride with some 8-9 % descents and the braking was very good. My wife commented that the braking was throwing her off the seat if she did not anticipate it. As I was testing I was braking much more then usual. Non of these were long enough to really heat up the brakes with only about 1000ft of decent to work with. I do think they are going to do well. They require much less hand pressure and seem to modulate well. I was surprised that they were actually lighter then the Bengals. When I talked to both Brice and Dave at TRP they stated that they had tested them on tandems but still were interested in feedback. I called them and ordered direct from Dave and got them in two days I really like a two piece rotor and used a Hope V2 rotor but am going to try a Shimano Ice and see how it feels. I hope that combo deals with all the heat issues. I do like the fact that the pad is about 1 1/2 times larger then the Bengal so it should off gas much later.

Turbotandem 05-29-13 05:07 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Is it known that the "CHILL" pads from Scrubs, are compaitble with the TRP since they list shimano fitment?
Can't say if they are a "grippy" as TRP says their custom pads are. $15 more than other TRP pads.
http://www.scrubcomponents.com/Brake...ILL/chill.html

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=320002http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=320003

I don't actually see the Spyre pads listed on TRP's site should one want to replace them with OEM pads.
http://www.trpbrakes.com/products.php?catid=187
I only see paradox pads.

Turbotandem 05-30-13 08:04 AM

Response from Scrub about their CHILL pads and more...

Scrub:
"- I looked up the M515 caliper, and it looks like it uses a different pad than the Shimano pads we stock. You can look at the store on our site to see images of all the pads to be sure.
"- I am not sure about the TRP calipers, I haven't seen them yet but I would say it is unlikely that the CHILL pads will clear the mechanical arms.
"Keep an eye on Scrub since it sounds like you are in to mechanical calipers, we'll have something interesting to share eventually.."


FYI, the scrub site indicates beta projects in works including a disc caliper but with few facts. Like under "weight" is says "lite".

twocicle 05-30-13 08:51 AM

Anyone find a link to Owner/Install Manuals for the TRP Spyre and/or Hy/RD models?

akexpress 05-30-13 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twocicle (Post 15683971)
Anyone find a link to Owner/Install Manuals for the TRP Spyre and/or Hy/RD models?

I have the pdf file for the Hy/Rd but it is too big of file for attaching here unless someone can tell me how.

uspspro 05-30-13 08:43 PM

I just bought a Hy/Rd to test out with EBC gold pads (my favorite) and an Ice Tech rotor.

95% of the time the BB7 works fine, but I was again reminded by the Owen's Valley that the BB7 is barely marginal for those kinds of descents. The upper 1/3 of Onion valley, for example, has prolonged 10-12% sections with a repetitive cycle of >45 mph straightaways and hairpins that are maybe 25-30 mph. My confidence was shot to hell with the BB7, on that particular descent.

Ritterview 05-30-13 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uspspro (Post 15686725)
95% of the time the BB7 works fine, but I was again reminded by the Owen's Valley that the BB7 is barely marginal for those kinds of descents. The upper 1/3 of Onion valley, for example, has prolonged 10-12% sections with a repetitive cycle of >45 mph straightaways and hairpins that are maybe 25-30 mph. My confidence was shot to hell with the BB7, on that particular descent.

Wow, your Strava link speaks volumes about BB7 confidence, because instead of your usual 1st out of XXXX on the descent, it is 61 out of 113. That is a result more akin to the Ritterview's unskilled captain/pusillanimous stoker combo than the Marco/Ruth corner carvers.

No braking = no speed. Only a fool descends fast without the confidence lent by a powerful brake to pluck you from calamity though the hurtling speed and vertiginous grade combine to make your team a juggernaut.

colotandem 05-31-13 08:16 AM

It will be interesting to hear several accounts of the TRP brake on a tandem (both the Spyre and the HD/RD. We received our HY/RD yesterday, but I have not installed and we will not be putting it through extensive testing immediately as we are predominantly on the mtb tandem for the next few weeks.

I'm cautiously optimistic. I am also pleased to know that the teams that are "experimenting" with the new TRP brakes are quite experienced in tandems in general, but also mountainous terrain. This should make for some good real world testing. Time will tell if these brakes give us a better alternative to braking options for tandem use (tandem "rated" or not).

twocicle 05-31-13 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ritterview (Post 15687209)
Wow, your Strava link speaks volumes about BB7 confidence, because instead of your usual 1st out of XXXX on the descent, it is 61 out of 113. That is a result more akin to the Ritterview's unskilled captain/pusillanimous stoker combo than the Marco/Ruth corner carvers.

No braking = no speed. Only a fool descends fast without the confidence lent by a powerful brake to pluck you from calamity though the hurtling speed and vertiginous grade combine to make your team a juggernaut.

As cool as the Profile carbon Wing cowhorn stoker bars look and lightness, we are switching back to drop bars (300gm heavier w/stoker pegs) for a few reasons, one of which is pertaining to Ritterview's comments about highspeed cornering. With my stoker hanging on to cowhorns it is a bit more scary than we like. She can get into a fairly low position but cannot lock in and so the bike gets unsettled with her shoulders and head throwing off the balance when we whip through a corner. I'm talking about fast corners, not just lolligagging cruisers. Our routine with drop bars was to have her always drop & lock when I yell "CORNER!". The dropbar position results in much better unison and a single-bike feel. Another reason is in crosswinds the cowhorns suck... and my stoker is petite too. I can't see how any team wanting performance handling can stand using cowhorns. We may still use cowhorns for non-technical travel/touring, but otherwise maybe mount them on the wall.

Curious, what setup would Marco/Ruth have?

uspspro 05-31-13 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ritterview (Post 15687209)
Wow, your Strava link speaks volumes about BB7 confidence, because instead of your usual 1st out of XXXX on the descent, it is 61 out of 113. That is a result more akin to the Ritterview's unskilled captain/pusillanimous stoker combo than the Marco/Ruth corner carvers.

No braking = no speed. Only a fool descends fast without the confidence lent by a powerful brake to pluck you from calamity though the hurtling speed and vertiginous grade combine to make your team a juggernaut.

Yeah, the wind was really gusty as a system was moving in. So I had the wind blowing us around, I was squeezing the hell out of the brake, it was making a ton of noise (It's usually quiet), I was running out of pad (at that adjustment point), and the drop-offs were quite impressive.

I just felt like I was abusing the hardware, exceeding the intended usage parameters if you will. I felt uneasy enough that I actually stopped the bike to check things over (see stopped time, on the link). Everything was fine, I added a few clicks the the pad adjuster, checked the tires/wheels/rotor, waited a few mins and took off down the hill.

uspspro 05-31-13 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twocicle (Post 15688498)
As cool as the Profile carbon Wing cowhorn stoker bars look and lightness, we are switching back to drop bars (300gm heavier w/stoker pegs) for a few reasons, one of which is pertaining to Ritterview's comments about highspeed cornering. With my stoker hanging on to cowhorns it is a bit more scary than we like. She can get into a fairly low position but cannot lock in and so the bike gets unsettled with her shoulders and head throwing off the balance when we whip through a corner. I'm taking about fast corners, not just lolligagging cruisers. Our routine with drop bars was to have her always drop & lock when I yell "CORNER!". The dropbar position results in much better unison and a single-bike feel. Another reason is in crosswinds the cowhorns suck... and my stoker is petite too. I can't see how any team wanting performance handling can stand using cowhorns. We may still use cowhorns for non-technical travel/touring, but otherwise maybe mount them on the wall.

Curious, what setup would Marco/Ruth have?

We both have drop bars. Ruth also has those uber-heavy Cane Creek stoker pegs. We have considered the lightweight cowhorns, but Ruth like the drops during descents, and other high speed technical stuff.

Turbotandem 05-31-13 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twocicle (Post 15688498)
As cool as the Profile carbon Wing cowhorn stoker bars look and lightness, we are switching back to drop bars (300gm heavier w/stoker pegs) for a few reasons, one of which is pertaining to Ritterview's comments about highspeed cornering. With my stoker hanging on to cowhorns it is a bit more scary than we like. She can get into a fairly low position but cannot lock in and so the bike gets unsettled with her shoulders and head throwing off the balance when we whip through a corner. I'm taking about fast corners, not just lolligagging cruisers. Our routine with drop bars was to have her always drop & lock when I yell "CORNER!". The dropbar position results in much better unison and a single-bike feel. Another reason is in crosswinds the cowhorns suck... and my stoker is petite too. I can't see how any team wanting performance handling can stand using cowhorns. We may still use cowhorns for non-technical travel/touring, but otherwise maybe mount them on the wall.

I've a petite stoker as well. For the first 20 years on the tandem, I think I convinced her to use the drops on her bars at most a handful of times. So we've gone to the base bars / cow horns for the last 4 years. She prefers them and the horn is long enough that when she is all the way out on it that's as low as she wants to ride. For TT's I move the whole bar and stem down a few inches that is tolerated for an hour race. The Profile base bar also has the horns dropped down a bit from the top cross position, sometimes called an "attack" position when the base bars have that drop into the horns. I don't corner at high speeds so I've not noticed the locking in of the stoker. I'm 175# and she's 104# so I've never thought her posture makes a big differnce. For me selecting a cornering speed is more about whether there is sand on the road or something else unpredictable around the corner, not my tuck. But I readily admit I hate descending and cornering; which does not suit us well since we love to climb.

Turbotandem 05-31-13 10:40 AM

In a couple weeks we'll have a new rear wheel built up for the TRP Spyre SLC / 200mm ICE 6 bolt. We'll share the experience. Based on our cross tandem with disc, I don't expect more "power" than the rim brakes, nor more confidence in descents to go faster. All our discs so far are mushy compared to rim brakes. But as we have several doubles with 20k climbing this year through the Rockies, and pretty tight time limits; it is a given we will be descending in the rain at some point. The Rockies rain 9 out of 10 afternoons from June to August. For those rides we'll swap in the wheel and disc brake (with a splice in the brake cable). I did not want to fret toward the end of 200 mile day heading down a mountain pass in the rain that I'm wrecking a rim with road grit or have any loss in brake ability on a wet rim.

waynesulak 05-31-13 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twocicle (Post 15688498)
As cool as the Profile carbon Wing cowhorn stoker bars look and lightness, we are switching back to drop bars (300gm heavier w/stoker pegs) for a few reasons, one of which is pertaining to Ritterview's comments about highspeed cornering. With my stoker hanging on to cowhorns it is a bit more scary than we like. She can get into a fairly low position but cannot lock in and so the bike gets unsettled with her shoulders and head throwing off the balance when we whip through a corner. I'm taking about fast corners, not just lolligagging cruisers. Our routine with drop bars was to have her always drop & lock when I yell "CORNER!". The dropbar position results in much better unison and a single-bike feel. Another reason is in crosswinds the cowhorns suck... and my stoker is petite too. I can't see how any team wanting performance handling can stand using cowhorns. We may still use cowhorns for non-technical travel/touring, but otherwise maybe mount them on the wall.

Curious, what setup would Marco/Ruth have?


Sounds like in your case the drop handlebars are weight well spent. My stoker also likes to have the drops available. She doesn't use them as much as I would like but she has the final call on her fit issues.

My stoker decided she likes Dia Comp knobs much better than the Cane Creek Dummies. The diameter of the rubber cover is larger than the handle bar and she likes the fit in her hand and the fact that it makes a different angle where it attaches to the bar. Somewhat lighter than the heavy Cane Creek Dummies that seem to come standard on most tandems. They look old school so that might be a downside.

http://store.velo-orange.com/media/c...knob_grips.jpg

Bostic 05-31-13 11:48 AM

Dumb question...

"
The HY/RD’s advantages over the Parabox include easier installation (presumably no bleeding is necessary and there is no hydraulic hose to speak of)"

Does that mean just install the brakes and run the brake cable to them? No dot fluid, bleed or whatever else I don't really want to deal with if I get these for my Volagi? After descending Regnart road and other 19% grades in Cupertino I've grown tired of the squeal of BB7 with HSX rotors and metallic pads. The residents probably are too at 6am during my pre-work rides.

colotandem 05-31-13 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bostic (Post 15689094)
Dumb question...

"
The HY/RD’s advantages over the Parabox include easier installation (presumably no bleeding is necessary and there is no hydraulic hose to speak of)"

Does that mean just install the brakes and run the brake cable to them? No dot fluid, bleed or whatever else I don't really want to deal with if I get these for my Volagi? After descending Regnart road and other 19% grades in Cupertino I've grown tired of the squeal of BB7 with HSX rotors and metallic pads. The residents probably are too at 6am during my pre-work rides.


"Does that mean just install the brakes and run the brake cable to them? " YES.

There are no brake lines to bleed, in reading the instructions, apparently there could be a situation in which you would need to bleed the resevoir - although I don't know what circumstances would require it.

uspspro 05-31-13 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bostic (Post 15689094)
Dumb question...

"
The HY/RD’s advantages over the Parabox include easier installation (presumably no bleeding is necessary and there is no hydraulic hose to speak of)"

Does that mean just install the brakes and run the brake cable to them? No dot fluid, bleed or whatever else I don't really want to deal with if I get these for my Volagi? After descending Regnart road and other 19% grades in Cupertino I've grown tired of the squeal of BB7 with HSX rotors and metallic pads. The residents probably are too at 6am during my pre-work rides.

I have not seen the instructions yet, but you shouldn't have to bleed them in the traditional sense. However you will need to fill them with the reservoir level (opening at the top), so that the entire thing fills with fluid, without any trapped air. Then presumably, pump the lever arm a few times to make sure no bubbles rise to the top. The great thing about these is that the entire hydraulic system is contained in one unit. Thus you should be able (and is probably best) to deal with the fluid with the caliper off the bike. Then seal the lid, bolt it on to the bike, and run the cable.

I will follow up once I have it in my possession.

fietsbob 06-01-13 12:20 AM

Are the HyRd shipping in the USA? what distributors? or just running the dealer bypass scheme?

jacks1071 06-01-13 06:11 AM

Anyone know if they'll work with the Hope vented rotors? Are you guys just running them on the front or rear or all-round?

I'm thinking on the front would be good, provide that extra power and you've still got a cable operated rear incase things do cook.

colotandem 06-01-13 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fietsbob (Post 15691327)
Are the HyRd shipping in the USA? what distributors? or just running the dealer bypass scheme?

Like akexpress, I went direct to the source. This allowed me to to order without a rotor (as I already have several). Also allows for switching to a larger rotor. From the TRP website, it appears that they only offer in 140 and 160 rotors as package.

I'm not sure that I'd call it a "dealer bypass scheme". As for availability elsewhere, I have not investigated.

akexpress 06-01-13 09:33 AM

The calipers come full of mineral oil so they are bolt and go. Direct bolt on replacement of the a Avid or Bengal. Literally a 10 minute job if you cable is long enough. They recommend compression less housing. I saw they are in Universal Cycles website but were not yet available as of last week. I don't think they retract enough for the Hope vented rotor.

uspspro 06-01-13 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akexpress (Post 15692063)
The calipers come full of mineral oil so they are bolt and go. Direct bolt on replacement of the a Avid or Bengal. Literally a 10 minute job if you cable is long enough. They recommend compression less housing. I saw they are in Universal Cycles website but were not yet available as of last week. I don't think they retract enough for the Hope vented rotor.

Yeah,

I mentioned the vented rotor, and he said it may be too wide.


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