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  1. #1
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    Cable Splitter Question

    My wife and I ride a Co-Motion Speedster with S&S couplings. In prep for our trip to Denmark I am fabricating the bike cases. As I look toward to packing process I was wondering if anyone has a thought about a cable splitter for the front brake? This would allow me to just assemble and go.
    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    I just disconnect the cable at the front brake caliper which allows me to pull the fork for packing. The caliper clamp makes a indent in the cable so its no problem putting it back in place exactly.

  3. #3
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    I wouldn't know where you'd put a splitter since nearlly all front brake cables are enclosed by housing up and until they reach the stop at the brake caliper or noodle for liner pull brake...

    As Car Knocker suggests, if fork removal is necessary for packing the easiest thing to do is to loosen the pinch bolt and remove the cable.

    If you have a front rim caliper you can opt to leave the cable connected and remove the caliper brake from the fork which also only requires loosening a single nut.

    Let me also suggest that if this is your first time travelling with your S&S tandem, think through your disassembly & packing process. It's very easy to go overboard and end up taking a lot more apart than is needed, adding significant time to the re-assembly process at your destination. As always, the KISS Principle (Keep It Simple Stanley) is your best friend, as is a good digital camera so that you can capture your final packing sequence in a way that will let you replicate it when you go to re-pack your tandem in the future.

    There are some additional tips buried in a webpage that I built about a decade ago for our Erickson S&S tandem that are still applicable and that may be of interest:
    http://www.thetandemlink.com/article...cksonpack.html

  4. #4
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    TandemGeek, Thanks for your reply. Right now I am riveting parts on the cases and hope to wrap those up today. Next step is the frame padding. I have the Speedster apart on blankets on the floor in the shop. I want to do some "packing practice"!
    You mentioned not taking more apart that is necessary. It seems that the cranks, racks, fenders, handle bars ,seats & posts. I am not sure what I cannot not take aparts.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bent In El Paso's Avatar
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    On our Speedster, I leave front brake cable connected and remove the caliper from the fork. When I take the handle bar off the stem, I carefully loop the cables so they are not kinked and secure them with wire ties. That makes if very easy to reassemble the front brake with minimal adjustment time required. Just adjust the pads to position the caliper correctly on the rotor. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts. Back off the pads a few turns and your set to go.

    Of course this assumes you have disc brakes.
    Last edited by Bent In El Paso; 03-26-13 at 01:06 PM.
    Fred

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tandem Tom View Post
    TandemGeek, Thanks for your reply. Right now I am riveting parts on the cases and hope to wrap those up today. Next step is the frame padding. I have the Speedster apart on blankets on the floor in the shop. I want to do some "packing practice"!
    You mentioned not taking more apart that is necessary. It seems that the cranks, racks, fenders, handle bars ,seats & posts. I am not sure what I cannot not take aparts.
    I don't need to remove the cranks to pack my bike. It is a little easier if I remove one front crank arm but it fits even if I don't. Now that I have Lightning cranks it is a little more effort then when I had ISIS bottom brackets so I just leave them in place. Get a silver sharpie and mark all the pads for their location so it makes using them very simple. I pack one wheel in each case with half of the bike. I find removing the tires makes it easier for TSA to get the cases closed again. The make it simple really applies for TSA handling. Make a list for each case so you can get to the target weight every time so you don't arrive at the airport with overweight bags. This is especially true on the return flights as everything seems to grow during trips. With practice you can get it down to less then a hour on each end. Make sure you have some compression posts for your cases as they will get stacked.

  7. #7
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    I have also made the Compression Posts. I used CPVC and plywood discs. My wife is going to make the netting bag that holds everything together. We just got the fabric samples yesterday from Seattle Fabric.

  8. #8
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tandem Tom View Post
    You mentioned not taking more apart that is necessary. It seems that the cranks, racks, fenders, handle bars ,seats & posts. I am not sure what I cannot not take aparts.
    It was general guidance, as you seem to be rather meticulous with your new tandem, even moreso than I am and I'm pretty meticulous.

    As a point of reference, I've seen folks with travel tandems show up at rallies who have removed all of their water bottles, brakes, handlebars from stems, cables, etc. to the point where the bike was pretty much a bare frame that had to be built up from scratch when they arrived. Their rationale was, it made the velcro padding easier to install and the bike easier to pack. Both of which were true, but they spent 2 hours re-building their bike; something that should only take between 30-60 minutes... and perhaps another few minutes for just getting the velcro covers sorted out. I'm looking to eliminate those when I finally get around to packing our Calfee... just not sure what I'll use to replace them, e.g., packing the frame in layers of foam or some other material.

  9. #9
    Gear Combo Guru Chris_W's Avatar
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    You didn't mention whether your front brake is a rim brake or a disc brake. Our Speedster has a front V-brake, so I leave the cable connected and remove the arm that it's connected to from the frame. The bolt then goes back into the mounting hole for safe keeping. If it was a disc brake then I'd disconnect the cable and leave the caliper in place so that I didn't loose the alignment.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tandem Tom View Post
    I have also made the Compression Posts. I used CPVC and plywood discs. My wife is going to make the netting bag that holds everything together. We just got the fabric samples yesterday from Seattle Fabric.
    Don't follow the S&S netting pattern as I my opinion they are worthless. The Velcro on the corners catches everything while trying to pack. It is impossible to get them tight enough that you can pickup the whole thing up out of the case. As far the compression posts I recommend attaching the discs to one end and allow the other end to be removable. This way when TSA open the case they can move parts around and then when they put it back together the posts are in same place and the discs go back on. otherwise from personal experience the compression posts don't stay together and again don't offer protection.

  11. #11
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
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    Now that the above has been answered, I have a follow-on splitter question.

    What ingenious solutions do people have for preventing the splitters from rattling on the mid-section tubes of their tandems?

    I've added cable donuts, placed the splitters near the cable routing ends, and crossed the shifter cables under the bottom tube. I'm thinking of adding stick-on rubber pads on the frame tubes at the splitter points. Wonder if I missed something?

  12. #12
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Doesn't the cable splitter have O rings around it as bumpers..

  13. #13
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    Doesn't the cable splitter have O rings around it as bumpers..
    Correct, but those do not stop the splitters w/0-rings from rattling against the frame tubes when riding over surfaces that cause vibrations.

    I really dislike creaks and rattles. I found the same pesky thing occurring on our previous S&S tandem too. Splitters seem to act like a set of weights that are meant to cause rattling and annoyances
    Last edited by twocicle; 03-30-13 at 01:40 PM.

  14. #14
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    DSCN1026.jpgDSCN1025.jpgSmall disc of chain stay protector at the splitter works pretty well. Oh and going to DI2 eliminates two of the three splitters

  15. #15
    hors category TandemGeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by twocicle View Post
    What ingenious solutions do people have for preventing the splitters from rattling on the mid-section tubes of their tandems?
    I install the splitters so that they either:
    a. are already sitting on a coupler, noise insulated by the rubber o-ring
    b. make sure they're positioned as close as possible to the front bottom bracket under the boom tube where they won't rattle against anything.

  16. #16
    Used to be Conspiratemus
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    Quote Originally Posted by twocicle View Post
    Now that the above has been answered, I have a follow-on splitter question.

    What ingenious solutions do people have for preventing the splitters from rattling on the mid-section tubes of their tandems?

    I've added cable donuts, placed the splitters near the cable routing ends, and crossed the shifter cables under the bottom tube. I'm thinking of adding stick-on rubber pads on the frame tubes at the splitter points. Wonder if I missed something?
    Rubber pads are the ticket. I use a short length of the left-over rubber strips that come in the packages of bike lights to make the clamps fit snugly around handlebars and seatposts. A drop of superglue and you can enjoy the silence.
    "I did not know that!" -- J. Carson

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