maor

I´m new to using racks, and need to get one for a tandem on my Ford Windstar. Is it at all reasonable to use the tandem rack on the factory cross bars that come with the car or are these too weak?

galen_52657

I would read the owners manual. The stock crossbars may be rated by weight. That being said, I would still advise against using them. A Yakim, Tule or even a knock-off rack system is far, far superior. I would bet that if you want to use a tandem fork-mount carrier to hold the bike upright, the carrier's manufacturer would state that you must use an aftermarket rack. I don't think the carrier's attachments will work with stock crossbars. I would guess they only way you could use the stock roof rack is if you are going to lay the bike on it's side and strap it down.

I have a Chrysler mimivan with the factory roof rack. I would not trust the stock crossbars to hold a 43 lb. tandem standing up, even if Bike Topper carrier I have would attach to the stock crossbars.

stapfam

I would get it verified, as I do not know the specific Ford model you have, but the crossbars on all cars will have a maximum loading. This should be stated in your hand book that came with the car, and I would be very surprised if this was not in the region of around 150 lbs +.

I know that on my Vauxhall(GM to you) the max loading is 220lbs. However I use a different system in that I load my Tandem flat on a conventional roof rack. This is to cut down possible damage to It from low trees and Height restrictions getting into car parks.

DocF

You will probably find, as I did, that the factory rails are ok, but the cross bars are of a design which will not allow the addition of bike racks. That is why I bought a set of Thule parts and Atoc tandem racks for my Buick Rendezvous.

Doc

Gtscottie

Like Doc says this will be your problem. I have a Ford Expedition that claims the rack will hold the bike but because of the shape of the cross rails a bike rack won't fit. Thule makes a great rack that will bolt to the roof rails that run length ways on your van so you don't have to change the whole rack.

Good Luck

wsurfn

I wouldn't....

Go with Thule or Yakima cross bars. Peace of mind is worth a lot.

My 2 cents.

Mhendricks

We also have Yakima cross bars. When it comes time for a bike mount, Thule and Yakima were pretty expensive. We personally went with a Rocky Mounts carrier for tandem. Less cost and still does the job. The only thing we changed was that we bought a Yakima locking skewer (non-Viper). It was around $20

TandemGeek

It varies from vehicle to vehicle, manufacturer to manufacturer. However, I seem to recall that the Windstar -- at least some of the older models -- do have an unpublicized problem with the load capacity of the factory racks. A quick search of the TSBs didn't turn up anything but I did stumble across this item that may be of interest: https://www.consumeraffairs.com/autom...oof_racks.html

I think the take away here is, any contemplating the use of their factory racks should check with a few roof mount manufacturers (Yakima, Thule, Atoc) to see what they know about your particular OEM vehicle luggage rack system as I suspect, similar to the situation outlined above, that they will probably be far more candid about what their customers have reported than your owner's manual or the dealer. After all, I suspect that every OEM luggage rack failure that occured when used with an aftermarket rack or luggage system has been blamed on the aftermarket company... if only to get the customer off the auto dealer's back an onto someone elses.

Personally, I think a sports rack system is pretty cheap insurance for anyone who contemplates hauling bikes for the foreseeable future. The more expensive the bike, the heavier the bike, or the more bikes you plan to carry the more valuable a properly fitted and adjusted rack system becomes. I still have bits and pieces from my 1985 Yakima rack system... However, all of that said, a purpose built roof rack system is still not 100% fool proof and adds its own risks which demand a lot of extra attention from the user when installing the system, when mounting the bikes, and when operating with the bikes up on top. Many a bike has been dropped onto a car, fallen off a car, and been driven into an overhang or garage.

galen_52657

Lots of systems now utilize the factory rails. I have the Tule system which has 'feet' which bolt onto the stock rails of my minivan. I am sure Yakima has the same thing.

If you have ever had your car full of people and gear, then you have to strap stuff on the roof nomad-style. Plus, attachments are available to carry all kinds of stuff. I have had seven people in the car with 4 snowboards on the roof, 1 snowboard and 2 pairs of skis inside, some luggage inside and a roof bag stuffed full. The Tule board carriers are nice because they don't take up the entire roof area, leaving room for the 36" x 36" bag between them.

OldShacker

Or Factory racks did okay but I simply use the thule rack now. I like to travel around with my tandem and found that I can get more stuff made for the Thuly racks. The only thing is that I have to open the driver side slide door to mout the bike on the front mount.

TandemGeek is right!
Okay the first photo is of the Yakima rack before my wife went through the local ATM and took out the rack with tandem on it. No damage to the bike but the rack tried to hold on. IT bent big time.

The other photos are the Thule. They do cost a lot but I never had a problem. I have been through all kinds of weather and off road. So Far So Good.
you might notice I am still using the Yakima lock and strap.

TandemGeek

It could be an illusion, but the tandem mount sure looks like a Yakima Sidewinder and the towers and bars are also very Yakima-looking, e.g., round cross bars instead of rectangular like Thule's. Am I missing something here????

OldShacker

You’re right on with the Yakima rack. I was off a click. My wife tried to fit the tandem and van under an ATM roof. She was fine when she wedged the van under but she tried to back up and that is when the seat caught the lip of the roof and caused the bike to push down on the rack and the rack gave in. So when I went to the LBS where I got the rack I found that they switched to Thule. I took off the front lock mount and used it on the Thule rack.

mchell

Have you considered a "Draftmaster"? Why lift a big bike up on the roof when you can secure it on the sturdy bumper hitch vertically, and still open the rear hatch? This is the system I use for my Rans Screamer (recumbent) and it works very well indeed.

TandemGeek

While the Draftmaster (now owned by ATOC) is often times mentioned, the one system that I would probably look at if I was considering a bumper-guard bike rack would be Badger's horizontal mount.

https://www.badgerrack.com/tandem.htm

Badger also makes a vertical mount along the same lines as the Draftmaster; however, If you only have one or two tandems to carry, their horizontal system is pretty slick. However, I'd most likely remove the rear wheel to keep the tandem in the slipstream of the vehicle as well as keeping it out of the elements. The horizontal mount also eliminates concerns regarding low-overhangs, the potential for your or a helper scratching or denting the roof or side of your high profile vehicle whilst loading or unloading bikes.

Links to a variety of other Rack systems and sources are here: https://www.TheTandemLink.com/TLLinks.html#anchor810905

mchell

Thanks for the info Tandemgeek. Have checked out the Badger www and their vertical unit looks good. The horizontal versions wouldn't work for me as my bike is too long from the captain's pedals to the edge of the rear wheel and would be 3" wider than the legal limit in Ontario, I believe elsewhere, as well. Didn't like the idea of so much bike hanging outside the width of my little Subaru. Again, I can speak highly of the Draftmaster.

OldShacker

We never thought of that. It really is not a problem to swing it up.

maor

Thanks so much for all the great advice. What I ended up doing is getting a couple of Yakima bars with the necessary towers and placed one in front with clips, and one as far back as the factory tract allows. I then used a fork mount with a regular tray attached to the front Yakima (trust worthy) Bar and another short tray only on the rear Yakima bar so to fit the length of the tandem. Now the tandem fork mounts to the front Yakima, and straps to both the long tray at the bike frame (which is also attached to the facotry rack) and the short tray at the rear Yakima Bar. I think the result is pretty safe and for a lot less than a tandem special rack and actually had a great trip today with it on.
Thanks for all the information and help.
Maor