octico

Hello

I just picked up a 1992 Burley Duet excellent condition been stored in an attic for 15 years. It has a 7 speed triple drivetrain. I dont like bar end shifters so I was looking at picking up a pair of these:
https://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...7-x-3-3640.htm

Has anyone every used these before? Any thoughts?

geronimo2000

Two thoughts for you:

1) That Burley had bar end shifters for a reason. You are likely going to want to trim your chainring selection after shifting and you may well find yourself over shifting on the cassette to get it onto the right cog.

2) You might want to ride it a bit and make sure that the whole tandem thing is for you before you invest in a 20 year old bike - better shifters argue for new derailleurs which only really make sense with new hubs and then you've got to repaint the bike to match the wheel set....

(said by a guy who just but couplers into a '95 Ibis)

octico

Thanks G! Makes sense, I plan on replacing everything on the bike. It was in pristine condition and the price I paid was so low I could not resist. How are you liking your tandem?

geronimo2000

I started ten years ago with a used '98 Burley Duet - it is a great bike that is incredibly stable, very heavy, and the price was right. A couple of years ago I upgraded to a Rodriguez ultra-light with a custom frame. I am very glad that I put my money into buying a new bike instead of upgrades to the Burley - for the same amount I got new components, a frame that fits and that feels like it doesn't weigh anything, and a relationship with a bike shop that really pays off. I am 100% of the opinion that a used tandem is the best route for teams to get into the sport, but I would discourage you from "replacing everything on the bike" - you will get better value and you will be much happier if you wait until you know exactly what you want and then buy new. (Probably the bet $400 I ever spent was getting a professional fitting on the Burley. Personally I would invest in saddles and a suspension seat post for the stoker before I started spending money on the drivetrain - if she isn't comfortable you aren't going to get much use out of the bike no matter how good the brake levers are. Another bit of personal opinion - if your set-up doesn't include stoker control over a drag brake, spend the money to give her that - it will take away a lot of the out-of-control experience that gets in the way of enjoyment for your partner.)

I got the Ibis this past thanksgiving so I don't have a lot of experience with it yet. The idea was a second tandem set up for gravel and the Ibis will be perfect for that. Plus it has "iconic" braze-ons...

fietsbob

LONG cable back to the rear Mech .. Indexing is separated by the whole bike , klicks in front
Action performed at the Back so abundant cable drag problems are possible ..

Only 2 schemes that will eliminate that .. Nuvinci 360 CVR , and Rohloff IGH

continuously variable Ratio, is a Pull-Pull shifter , no return springs .. turn grip till it feels right.

Rohloff is also 2 cable .. all the gear sequencing is in the hub.



Shimano's IG hubs are 1 cable and a return spring ..

(their Di2 usis a wire so that resolves cable issues, but at a high price.)

Leisesturm

FWIW, Shimano has just come out with an entry level group called Claris. The brifters now have the downshiftt function controlled by a paddle instead of a thumb-button. I don't think a set of Claris brifters costs anymore than the Tourney ones linked above but I wasn't really looking.

At the end of last season we finally upgraded our 2005 Raleigh Coupe from flatbars to drops. We had the same dilemma about what to do about the Shimano triggers. 9 speed at that. I don't like bar-ends either. Claris wasn't out last year or I might bave been tempted. Microshift was. Nashbar rebadges Microshift. Even my LBS didn't know about Microshift brifters. Still we were all leery about the performance and longevity of brifters that cost half of everything else around the low end and 1/8 of products at the high end.

Top of the line Dura-Ace 9sp down-tube levers are ~$85. The fronts aren't indexed, but are spring loaded to counter the pull of the derailleur and lower effort. Cable friction is a non-issue. There is only 10" of housing that contacts the shift cable! I rode a friends Klein road-bike. Top of the line brifters but I couldn't get used to how rubbery they felt. I expected something much different. My levers are rock solid and the index points on the rear are chunk, chunk, chunk, etc. I spent a lot of time getting it just right. Sweet. Only rode it a few times before winter set in though.

With the high end levers and the special clamp I had to get to fit the 2.5" diameter of the aluminum downtube of a Coupe, I put more cash in than would be required to get either the Tourney or Claris brifters but I have to think that performancewise I am at least in the ball park and longevity and maintenance wise I am way ahead.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/43081400@N00/9615208337/

H