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Tandem Cycling A bicycle built for two. Want to find out more about this wonderful world of tandems? Check out this forum to talk with other tandem enthusiasts. Captains and stokers welcome!

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Old 02-11-14, 12:53 PM   #1
octico
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Aria drum brake mounting suggestion

Hello

I just bought a tandem and it came with Aria drum brake with a thumb shifter as the lever. I was wonder if its a good idea to mount it on the stoker to add stopping power. I figured is I use the cantilevers and my stoker uses the drum brake we could increase the stopping power. Any suggestions are appreciated!
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Old 02-11-14, 04:07 PM   #2
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Some Teams have the drag brake set-up with the Stoker which can work but requires clear communication in setting the brake and releasing it. I've got mine as a bar-end on the right side which has worked well. I typically activate the drag brake and then use the rim brakes. I release the drag brake as we get to the bottom of the hill. I have forgotten to release it and had a difficult time climbing the next hill! :-) Something you will need to look at is if you have cable guides for a Stoker activated drag brake.
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Old 02-11-14, 04:47 PM   #3
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Stopping power is a function of the tire contact patch, the weight on that contact patch, and the coefficient of friction. Having two brakes does not create more stopping power than having one brake. If you can lock the wheel, then you have all the stopping power you could ever have. Heat dissipation is another matter. The drum brake is able to dissipate more heat than the cantilevers. So, you use the drum brake as a drag brake on extended downhills, because you can apply it to some level and leave it there for the entire hill. If you did that with a cantilever, you'd melt the brake pads, the tire, the tube, or all three.

IMHO, it's better for the captain to control the drum brake, because stopping power is finite. If you have the drum brake partially applied, you've used up some of the available stopping power, and a full application of the rim brake will skid the wheel. If the captain controls the drum brake, the captain is more aware of how much power is left for rim brake use. However, folks have different opinions on this. If stoker control of the drum works for your team, then good for you guys.

Hope that helps!
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Old 02-11-14, 07:12 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by octico View Post
Hello

I figured is I use the cantilevers and my stoker uses the drum brake we could increase the stopping power.
I detect a misunderstanding of the purpose of the drum brake - It is not to be used in conjunction with the rim brake to increase stopping power. It is there to control your speed on long descents where constant use of the rim brakes could overheat the rims and cause a blow-out. It's on a shift lever so that you can set it and let it "drag". Trying to use the drum brake to help add stopping power during normal braking seems dangerous to me.
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Old 02-11-14, 07:55 PM   #5
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Thanks everyone! I am new this tandem stuff, been a roadie for years. I really appreciate all the feedback. swc7916 Thanks for the clarification of what the drum brake is for!
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Old 02-12-14, 01:32 AM   #6
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Does anyone know if an Arai drum brake can go on a 130 mm hub? I don't have a drum brake, but I am curious to know if installing one would require spreading my frame to 140 mm.
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Old 02-12-14, 04:41 AM   #7
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Does anyone know if an Arai drum brake can go on a 130 mm hub? I don't have a drum brake, but I am curious to know if installing one would require spreading my frame to 140 mm.
is is your hub threaded to accept a Arai Drum Brake?
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Old 02-12-14, 04:59 AM   #8
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is is your hub threaded to accept a Arai Drum Brake?
At this point I simply want to know if it can be done.
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Old 02-12-14, 08:41 AM   #9
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An Arai drum brake requires threads on the non-drive side of the hub. If you can find a 130mm hub with threads on the non-drive side, then it's no problem. I can't recall any hubs like that right off hand, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. Phil Wood makes a 135mm hub with threads, maybe it could be re-spaced to 130. You could call them, they are helpful. Be aware that Phil Wood hubs are among the finest hubs made, and they carry an appropriate price.
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Old 02-24-14, 03:38 PM   #10
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At this point I simply want to know if it can be done.
WNY's question was appropriate. If your hub doesn't have threads, then you can't mount a drum brake. The 130mm spacing is irrelevant if you don't have threads. I've seen hubs with threads with spacing down to 140mm, but never a 130mm. I think you need a minimum spacing to get the cassette, hub and brake in the rear triangle without creating an unstable/unusable wheel.
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Old 02-25-14, 08:46 AM   #11
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I am new to this expereince as well. My Duet was set up from the factory with the right lever controling both front and rear canti's and the left controlling the Arai. I purchased a used FD bar mount shifter and mounted it on the verticle part of the stem on the left side. The right lever is now the front brake ( I am old school on this) and the left is the rear canti. I can continue to modulate the front brake while controlling drag and possibly the rear as needed. Since the front is the most important, I want complete and seperate control of it. I understand that some move the control for the drag to the stoker but I am in agreement with @Paul J about communication. Given we are both new at this, with me being more expereinced biker, I don't want the stoker to get confused and have too much to be concerned about during this "getting aquainted" period. We have enough to communicate about as it is! Reliquishing control is a challenge for some stokers!
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Old 02-25-14, 08:53 AM   #12
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I am new to this expereince as well. My Duet was set up from the factory with the right lever controling both front and rear canti's and the left controlling the Arai. I purchased a used FD bar mount shifter and mounted it on the verticle part of the stem on the left side.

The right lever is now the front brake ( I am old school on this) and the left is the rear canti. I can continue to modulate the front brake while controlling drag and possibly the rear as needed. Since the front is the most important, I want complete and seperate control of it.

I understand that some move the control for the drag to the stoker but I am in agreement with @Paul J about communication. Given we are both new at this, with me being more expereinced biker, I don't want the stoker to get confused and have too much to be concerned about during this "getting aquainted" period. We have enough to communicate about as it is! Reliquishing control is a challenge for some stokers!

Good brake pads are the first item to ensure good braking, then proper adjustment. The drag brak is not intended, nor will it be good at stopping the bike.
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Old 02-25-14, 09:01 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by octico View Post
Thanks everyone! I am new this tandem stuff, been a roadie for years. I really appreciate all the feedback. swc7916 Thanks for the clarification of what the drum brake is for!
Which raises the question of whether you need a drag brake. If you want to control your speeds on straight away portions of descents, are a bigger team, or are carrying gear, you may well want a drag brake for heat dissipation issues.

On the other hand, if you descend agressively, only put the brakes on to slow for turns, and let the bike run on the straights, you may well not need a drag brake.

Good calipers give plenty of stopping power, and by letting the bike run on the straights, the brakes cool between turns, and overheating isn't an issue.

We just got back from Hawaii, and bombed the 25 mile descent of Haleakala with no heat issues, and no drag brake. We did replace the rear caliper with a disc (because the Santana tour people made us) but it would have been fine with 2 rim brakes only.
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Old 02-26-14, 07:05 AM   #14
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