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  1. #1
    Senior Member Team Fab's Avatar
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    Drum set up help

    Just got a rear drum brake for my Trek and would like to set it up to very easily remove cable and brake.

    Anyone have any pics of their set up?

    Also, what advice for the lever to control it as a drag brake? Would like it mounted up front preferably not bar end as i am to lazy to run a new cable under the bar tape.

    Thanks in advance.

    Also, did I get a good deal. Arai drum on shimano hubs, velocity rims and about 600 miles on the set. approx 300 US dollars.

  2. #2
    Senior Member swc7916's Avatar
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    Check Tandemseast.com for an Arai drum brake QR kit.
    2011 Rodriguez Rohloff tandem
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  3. #3
    just another gosling Carbonfiberboy's Avatar
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    We use the TandemsEast QR kit. I have an 8-speed Shimano bar-end shifter, cable under the bar tape. No big deal. I pull the cable, but of course not the housing, when the drum wheel is off the bike. On our Speedster, the housing ends at a fitting near the head tube. The cable travels through a dedicated guide under Stoker's BB.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Paul J's Avatar
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    We used a cable quick disconnect just after the last cable guide on the stoker bottom bracket. With a rubber spacer we draw the cable against the bob guide when we are running the wheel-set without the drum brake. We use a bar-end on the right side of the captain's bar.
    1982 Merckx Campy Super Record, 1995 Merckx Campy Centaur 10, DiamondBack Axis TT, (set-up as city bike), Bushnell Tandem

  5. #5
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    I have an Arai but my frame was set up from the factory. Instead of a welded anchor for the reaction arm, the kit has a clamp on bracket.

    It may be hard to see, but on the stem is a left thumb shifter for controlling the brake.



    I go and get better pics but the bike is blocked by a car in the garage while it is snowing.

  6. #6
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    Found a better pic

  7. #7
    Senior Member Team Fab's Avatar
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    Thanks SJX that is what I am looking for. Do you remove the whole cable when not using the drum?

    Now I just need to find a thumb control that will fit somewhere in my cockpit as I have a newer style stem.

  8. #8
    Senior Member WNY tandem's Avatar
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    We use a Bar End Shifter with a Paul Component Engineering Thumbie adapter.

    We also have a quick disconnect for the cabling, but I just nylon cable tie it up to the stokers seat tube when not in use.

    http://www.paulcomp.com/thumbies.html

  9. #9
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    I don't remove the drum, though I could based on rides. Too new at this I guess. It does add significant weight but that is an issue of training. It is more work than it is worth to remove and assemble based on rides.

  10. #10
    just another gosling Carbonfiberboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
    I don't remove the drum, though I could based on rides. Too new at this I guess. It does add significant weight but that is an issue of training. It is more work than it is worth to remove and assemble based on rides.
    I have mine on a spare wheel. Good to have a spare wheel. Since I only need the drum for touring, I only have to change wheels a few times a year at most. But it's there if I need it. I've needed a front a couple times, but I just grab a wheel off one of my singles.

  11. #11
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    That makes good sense. I can relate to the wheel change on singles, not so much for us on the double. My stoker would have to get really serious about riding in genera before we opted for second wheel set, plus we have 27" wheels. Berfore getting a second wheel set, I would get a replacement tandem! This thing weighs 47+ lbs!

  12. #12
    Senior Member WNY tandem's Avatar
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    We also have a second wheelset that does not have a drum brake. Actually we use the non-drum wheelset the majority of the time!

  13. #13
    Senior Member Team Fab's Avatar
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    The intent is to only install the drum brake when needed. We have a second set of wheels. This drum set will also replace the ones on our triple.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Team Fab's Avatar
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    What cable do I use to control the brake? Shift or Brake? Will a Brake fit in my thumb shifter?

  15. #15
    Senior Member 1speeder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Team Fab View Post
    What cable do I use to control the brake? Shift or Brake? Will a Brake fit in my thumb shifter?
    If you are using a friction type shifter, then you will need to use at least a shifter inner cable.

  16. #16
    just another gosling Carbonfiberboy's Avatar
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    Shifter cable and housing. Because it's a drum brake, cable pull is quite light.

  17. #17
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    When I did run the drum, I would just use a small Velcro strap to secure the cable to the chainstay right where it would connect to the drum. Seemed to make swaps between use and nonuse simple and quickand since the cable runs mostly under the bike and out of sight it was barely noticeable.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Team Fab's Avatar
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    I was thinking of using zip ties but Velcro seems like a much easier option.

    I guess I don't need expensive compression less housing either?

  19. #19
    Senior Member Paul J's Avatar
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    We have three sets of wheels with one having the drum brake. We put a cable splitter just after the cable guide on the stoker bottom bracket so with a rubber spacer we can draw the cable back so it is snug to the cable guide and the rear portion of the cable stays with the rear wheel with the drum.
    1982 Merckx Campy Super Record, 1995 Merckx Campy Centaur 10, DiamondBack Axis TT, (set-up as city bike), Bushnell Tandem

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Team Fab View Post
    I was thinking of using zip ties but Velcro seems like a much easier option.

    I guess I don't need expensive compression less housing either?
    Personally I say no. Don't know about our setup, but if you are running it from the pilot's cockpit then the only housing you probably have is from the controller to the cablestop on the downtube. Don't think you would notice the difference with such little housing. Don't know how to describe the "force" it took to apply the brake, but my first controller was a friction thumb shifter that I could operate with my thumb (and mine was run from the stoker up to the front cablestop and back to the brake...double bike length) and I could apply with my thumb and shifter would adequately hold brake pressure.

  21. #21
    Senior Member Team Fab's Avatar
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    I was thinking of running the housing all the way to the brake in order to make it easier to take on and off?

    Anyone do that?

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