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  1. #1
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    CoMotion Robusta DI2 conversion....

    Well, I've had the parts sitting on my bench for 5 months, so I figured it was time to get this done. I'm using the FSA MegaExo triple cranks, and just pulling the inner ring. That will, for now, get us a 39/52. I'm ordering a 38 tomorrow as I figure I should grab as small a ring as the 130 BCD will allow. We're already running an 11-28 cogset, which, for us gets us enough gears for Mt Lemmon here in Tucson. I'll be trialing an 11-30/32 to see how it flies with the DI2 rear der sometime soon.

    I purchased the wiring harness and seatpost battery for this setup from Gene Poyorena of DIY DI2. He did the same setup for my custom Gilmour single, and it worked out great!

    FB page here: https://www.facebook.com/Di2SeatPostBatteryKits

    The only "glitch" I'm wrestling with is the crank alignment and rear derailleur. Since the DI2 is a double, it looks like there may not be enough adjustment to pull it out to the location of the outer 2 rings of the stock triple that I want to use. Does anyone know if it's kosher to just move the cup spacer from the right side, over to the left and run none on the right and two on the left? From what I see on the FSA website, this looks like it's commonly done in bikes of varying BB shell widths?

    Otherwise, the install went very straightforward. I will add pics of the bike/details of the fitment tomorrow.

    MR

  2. #2
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
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    I went with the E-tube setup - everything except the diagnostic kit since the EW90 provides for the basic programmability.

    With that DIY kit and no EW90, do you lose the Di2 programmability (via USB port+E-tube software), derailleur shift tuning and battery level indicator?
    Last edited by twocicle; 03-13-14 at 01:18 AM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by twocicle View Post
    I went with the E-tube setup - everything except the diagnostic kit since the EW90 provides for the basic programmability.

    With that DIY kit and no EW90, do you lose the Di2 programmability (via USB port+E-tube software), derailleur shift tuning and battery level indicator?
    I'm not using an EW90 on this setup, no. Shift tuning is via the standard interface at the shift wiring junction. I can't imagine anyone needing a battery level indicator.....when I first put DA DI2 on my single, over 2 years ago, I intentionally tried to run the battery down.....after about 4-5 months, it was still shifting perfectly. I finally charged it just for the hell of it, and I now do so every 3 months or so. That was the standard external battery.

    My DA DI2 is now on another single, and is using the seatpost batter from DIY DI2. It's been in service for 3+ months and I've not charged it yet, and it's shifting perfectly.

    If I decide to program for multi-shift, there are several shops here that have the Shimano interface and software. I don't plan to do so, at least not at this time.

    What did the E tube setup cost you, out of curiosity? It included a seatpost battery?

    MR

  4. #4
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrMarkR View Post
    I'm not using an EW90 on this setup, no. Shift tuning is via the standard interface at the shift wiring junction. I can't imagine anyone needing a battery level indicator.....when I first put DA DI2 on my single, over 2 years ago, I intentionally tried to run the battery down.....after about 4-5 months, it was still shifting perfectly. I finally charged it just for the hell of it, and I now do so every 3 months or so. That was the standard external battery.

    My DA DI2 is now on another single, and is using the seatpost batter from DIY DI2. It's been in service for 3+ months and I've not charged it yet, and it's shifting perfectly.

    If I decide to program for multi-shift, there are several shops here that have the Shimano interface and software. I don't plan to do so, at least not at this time.

    What did the E tube setup cost you, out of curiosity? It included a seatpost battery?

    MR
    approx $1050 total for 10spd Ultegra + a bunch of wires of various lengths. really good sales prices late fall 2013. bought everything as separate items, not a package.
    Last edited by twocicle; 03-13-14 at 05:41 PM.

  5. #5
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    A few pics of the final product.....the battery level indicator does work with this setup, btw.

    20140313_194234.jpg

    Head tube/down tube wire entrance:

    20140313_194255.jpg


    20140313_194338.jpg


    Front Derailleur entrance:

    20140313_194353.jpg

    20140313_194403.jpg


    Rear derailleur entrance:

    20140313_194536.jpg


    I moved both of the crankset spacers to the left side to pull the chainrings in to accomadate the double (versus stock triple) chainrings:

    20140313_194622.jpg


    And did the same on the captain's crank as well, to keep the belt alignment:

    20140313_194631.jpg


    So the wiring harness was from DI2 DIY. Gene builds a seatpost battery, gives you custom length wiring runs for shifters/front der/rear der, and builds a junction box with connectors to all. You route the wires, connect junctions with heat sensitive shrink tubing, push the wires into the stoker seat tube, and your done. Reassemble and adjust derailleurs and go ride. I think I paid ~$250 for all this, as well as the charger. I bought the shifters, derailleurs and shifter harness (10 sp) from Performance about 6 months ago when they were on sale. Net of my Team Perfomance, the cost was about $650 for those items, as I caught a "double points" deal they were also running.

    We'll take it out tomorrow for a little ride to see how it works on the road. Supposed to be a bit breezy at 10-20mph, but the temps will be about 70ish.
    Last edited by DrMarkR; 03-14-14 at 01:20 AM.

  6. #6
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
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    Cool. Great pricing too.

    Instead of putting both BB spacers on your crossover timing side (which shifts both your pedal center and chainline), could you flip the CDC rings around and mount them on the inside of the spider instead?

  7. #7
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    Hmmm...right now they're on either side of the spider. You're suggesting moving them both the inside, and putting a spacer equal to the width of the spider between them?

  8. #8
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    Quick ride review on the DI2.....it's awesome. Works just as smoothly as the DuraAce DI2 on my single. I had to make a minor, on-the-roll adjustment on the first ride, as it was 2 "clicks" to the inside, and we trying to climb back up to the 28 when I shifted down to the 25 (11-28 cassette). After doing so, it's been flawless.

    We'll be doing the Tour de Mesa on it this Saturday.

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