Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    Member dstke's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    N. CA
    My Bikes
    2000 Litespeed, Rocky Mountain XTS30, Bontrager Race Lite, Co-Motion Speedster, C'Dale 06 Mountain Tandem
    Posts
    45
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Prepping for a trip to Pyrennees

    Hi,

    We'll be taking our S&S coupled Co-Motion Speedster to Europe in August and will be cycling in the Pyrennees. We did a big trip a couple of years ago in the alps and encountered a few problems. We had several blow-outs due to rims overheating but I've replaced the wheels (the previous set were worn before we started our tour), also replaced the arai drum brake shoes, and will not be towing a trailer - plus we know to take a break on long steep descents. We also cracked the Shimano freehub and I replaced that with a Phil Wood hub. Chains are due for replacement but I have a question about cables and bottom brackets.

    With coupled bikes it's common to use cable connectors but I once had a problem with the cable slipping within the connector so I thought why not just get long 3m cables for the rear and front derailleurs and long brake cables for the rear brake and drum break. Looking at the existing set up the only problem would be with the end caps. I would need to remove the end cap when taking the bike apart and crimp a new end cap on after putting it back together. Anyone have experience using something other than end caps, e.g., glue, wax? Would it hold up to being re-threaded through the guides?

    Regarding bottom brackets, we went through one on another tour and I'm already hearing some creaking with our one year old shimano BB. Any recommendations for tougher, longer-lasting bottom brackets?

    Thanks for the suggestions,

    Doug

  2. #2
    Senior Member Team Fab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Vancouver BC
    My Bikes
    Comotion Supremo, Trek T1000, Comotion Supremo Triple
    Posts
    234
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You could solder the end of the cable.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Mauriceloridans's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Shreveport
    My Bikes
    1983 Trek 520, early 80's Univega Gran Tourismo, '98 Santana Arriva
    Posts
    272
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    For end caps I use a couple of drops of fabric paint. It prevents fraying and stabbing but comes off with fingernails when you want to run it back up the housing. You can even get a color that goes with your frame and carry the small bottle with you. It is also good as a light thread lock for rack bolts etc.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia area, Pa., USA
    My Bikes
    Santana Cabrio triplet, Santana Fusion S&S tandem, Co-Motion Pangea S&S Co-Pilot, Co-Motion Nor'wester Co-Pilot, C'dale F2000
    Posts
    701
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    For bomb-proof BBs, you simply can't beat Phil Wood. I still have one in active use that I first bought for my MTB in 1987 (bearings have been replaced once). It's hard to shell out that kind of $$ on something that gets hidden away (and X2 for a tandem), but if you want the best...

    I have several S&S bikes, including a tandem and triplet, and use cable splitters on all of them. I've only had a cable slip once in 12 years of use, and that was because the set screw wasn't tight enough. I now am careful to check the small set screws as a matter of regular maintenance. The benefits of them, especially for a tandem (using regular length cables, etc.) far outweigh and small potential issues. I would suggest keeping them. Sure makes packing the bike a lot easier, too.

  5. #5
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
    My Bikes
    Calfee Tetra Tandem, Specialized Tarmac SL4 S-Works, other misc Road & MTB singles
    Posts
    1,168
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by dstke View Post
    Regarding bottom brackets, we went through one on another tour and I'm already hearing some creaking with our one year old shimano BB. Any recommendations for tougher, longer-lasting bottom brackets?
    Which type of Shimano BB are you using - square taper, Octalink, external? Model - ultegra, 105, ...? Creaking front or rear?

  6. #6
    Member dstke's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    N. CA
    My Bikes
    2000 Litespeed, Rocky Mountain XTS30, Bontrager Race Lite, Co-Motion Speedster, C'Dale 06 Mountain Tandem
    Posts
    45
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    External. Front. I think Ultegra, don't have the bike here, will check this weekend. Started with FSA MegaXO then switched to Shimano.

  7. #7
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
    My Bikes
    Calfee Tetra Tandem, Specialized Tarmac SL4 S-Works, other misc Road & MTB singles
    Posts
    1,168
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Many of the external BB cups come with a thread lock compound on them. I always do my assemblies using just the opposite - greasing the English threads as those won't unscrew themselves during use. The last thing I want is to have a BB cup seize in the frame or eccentric. Plus, grease is obviously a creak inhibitor.

    Since the BB facings and spindle hole are Delrin (plastic), there should be no need to grease those areas.

    More likely it is the eccentric creaking.

  8. #8
    Member dstke's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    N. CA
    My Bikes
    2000 Litespeed, Rocky Mountain XTS30, Bontrager Race Lite, Co-Motion Speedster, C'Dale 06 Mountain Tandem
    Posts
    45
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You're probably right. Should I grease it?

  9. #9
    Clipless in Coeur d'Alene twocicle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
    My Bikes
    Calfee Tetra Tandem, Specialized Tarmac SL4 S-Works, other misc Road & MTB singles
    Posts
    1,168
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What kind of eccentric do you have? If you don't know, post a photo

  10. #10
    Gear Combo Guru Chris_W's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Switzerland
    My Bikes
    Spec' Tarmac (road), Spec' Secteur Disc (commuter & tourer), Salsa Mamasita (MTB), CoMo Speedster (tandem), Surly Big Dummy (cargo), Airnimal (folder), a train pass, and NO car :)
    Posts
    2,090
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I've had a lot more issues re-threading cables through housing than I've had with cable splitters. With the splitters, I've only ever had one problem and that was when I lost 1 screw when changing a cable, so I tried to hold it with just the 1 remaining screw, but that only lasted about 200 km before it let go. I'd been smart enough to put that splitter on the FD cable, so it wasn't a huge hassle to manually move the FD using the limit screws a few times to allow us to complete the ride. As well as spare cables, a spare splitter is now also part of my tool kit for extended trips.

  11. #11
    Senior Member colotandem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    235
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris_W View Post
    I've had a lot more issues re-threading cables through housing than I've had with cable splitters. With the splitters, I've only ever had one problem and that was when I lost 1 screw when changing a cable, so I tried to hold it with just the 1 remaining screw, but that only lasted about 200 km before it let go. I'd been smart enough to put that splitter on the FD cable, so it wasn't a huge hassle to manually move the FD using the limit screws a few times to allow us to complete the ride. As well as spare cables, a spare splitter is now also part of my tool kit for extended trips.
    ^^^^What he said. Go with the splitters and keep spare cables (standard length) and an extra splitter too. Rethreading cables is a hassle. In my experience, the splitters work well.

    Good luck!

  12. #12
    Member dstke's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    N. CA
    My Bikes
    2000 Litespeed, Rocky Mountain XTS30, Bontrager Race Lite, Co-Motion Speedster, C'Dale 06 Mountain Tandem
    Posts
    45
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Here are a couple of photos of the eccentric. Note the BB is a Shimano SMBB6700

    IMAG0630.jpgIMAG0631.jpg

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    UK
    My Bikes
    Canyon Dura ace, Pinarello Asolo Super Record, Holdsworth Nuovo Record, Ibis Tandem, Brompton
    Posts
    81
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    We have an S&S coupled Ibis with discs (BB7) and used cable connectors with not a single issue over 10,000 km, including Ventoux, Tourmalet, Hautecam and other pyrenees descents. Only thing is to regularly check the grub screw tightness. Also doing the climbs early in the day so that the descent happens before the tarmac gets too hot and warms up the tyres too much. Plus run tyres at 75psi not 100psi.

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Roseville/Folsom
    My Bikes
    Co-Motion Primera Co-Pilot, Trek Madone 3.1, Trek 7300, Electra Townie 21D
    Posts
    117
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    +1 for soldering the end of the cables no matter whether they are going into a splitter or not. Maybe that should be *especially* if they are going into a splitter

    The splitter set screws will distort the cable and then it auto-unravels when you take it out. Not good for when you need to re-thread through a housing. So this needs to be done first thing before the cables have been assembled.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •