Need Help - Rawk Lobster II - Full Custom Build Tour Bike
07-12-15, 10:01 PM
#26
Senior Member
The JJ bars are a quite an investment price wise.
One option, I took advantage of, to see if their hand positioning suits is to try to source/locate some of their sold under license versions to get started.
The brand Titec used to make two different bars, sold under license to JJ, that whilst a little different, keep the same basic dimensions and sweepback.
The Titec J-bar is one I found on Ebay for $25 delivered and they also made a Titec H-bar.
These are both "copies" of the Jones cut loop bar for arguments sake and can be found often enough for much cheaper than a genuine set of JJ.
Titec H-Bar and J-Bar Review ? First Impressions | Bike Carson
The are no longer produced but can be found secondhand or sometimes new/old stock.
They are slightly different than the current full loop JJ bar in that because the hand grip position is shorter in the Titec, you place the brakes north of the grips on the "horns" or cut loop part of the bars (hope that makes sense).
Once I'd had them a few months and was still happy and enthused by them, I made the choice to buy the genuine units (in full loop) as they recently became available here in Aussie (although at a premium cost of $200 for the alloy ones - the others are dearer).
Oh and a heads up for your thermos:
https://www.bikebuddy.co.uk
Last edited by rifraf; 07-12-15 at 10:28 PM.
07-12-15, 10:07 PM
#27
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Tip of the day.
The JJ bars are a quite an investment price wise.
One option, I took advantage of, to see if their hand positioning suits is to try to source/locate some of their sold under license versions to get started.
The brand Titec used to make two different bars, sold under license to JJ, that whilst a little different, keep the same basic dimensions and sweepback.
The Titec J-bar is one I found on Ebay for $25 delivered and they also made a Titec H-bar.
These are both "copies" of the Jones cut loop bar for arguments sake and can be found often enough for much cheaper than a genuine set of JJ.
Titec H-Bar and J-Bar Review ? First Impressions | Bike Carson
The are no longer produced but can be found secondhand or sometimes new/old stock.
They are slightly different than the current full loop JJ bar in that because the hand grip position is shorter in the Titec, you place the brakes north of the grips on the "horns" or cut loop part of the bars (hope that makes sense).
Once I'd had them a few months and was still happy and enthused by them, I made the choice to buy the genuine units (in full loop) as they recently became available here in Aussie (although at a premium cost of $200 for the alloy ones - the others are dearer).
The JJ bars are a quite an investment price wise.
One option, I took advantage of, to see if their hand positioning suits is to try to source/locate some of their sold under license versions to get started.
The brand Titec used to make two different bars, sold under license to JJ, that whilst a little different, keep the same basic dimensions and sweepback.
The Titec J-bar is one I found on Ebay for $25 delivered and they also made a Titec H-bar.
These are both "copies" of the Jones cut loop bar for arguments sake and can be found often enough for much cheaper than a genuine set of JJ.
Titec H-Bar and J-Bar Review ? First Impressions | Bike Carson
The are no longer produced but can be found secondhand or sometimes new/old stock.
They are slightly different than the current full loop JJ bar in that because the hand grip position is shorter in the Titec, you place the brakes north of the grips on the "horns" or cut loop part of the bars (hope that makes sense).
Once I'd had them a few months and was still happy and enthused by them, I made the choice to buy the genuine units (in full loop) as they recently became available here in Aussie (although at a premium cost of $200 for the alloy ones - the others are dearer).
We'll see what I decide. I'm more likely to go with Bullhorn or Moustache. For an upright position, I don't know what the best bars would be. Perhaps without the pressure on the hands, being upright, having lots of positions is overkill. But I don't think I'd do a straight bar.
07-12-15, 10:57 PM
#28
Senior Member
We'll see what I decide. I'm more likely to go with Bullhorn or Moustache. For an upright position, I don't know what the best bars would be. Perhaps without the pressure on the hands, being upright, having lots of positions is overkill. But I don't think I'd do a straight bar.
Oh and a heads up for your thermos:
https://www.bikebuddy.co.uk
07-12-15, 11:17 PM
#29
Banned
SJS makes a bigger T count hub cog to tun a bigger chainring so both wear longer ..
Phil wood now makes 1/8" thk cogs [factory 3/32] longer wearing is the wider chain..
full bushing type .. also wears slower tan 5~8 speed erailleur chains.
Phil wood now makes 1/8" thk cogs [factory 3/32] longer wearing is the wider chain..
full bushing type .. also wears slower tan 5~8 speed erailleur chains.
07-12-15, 11:45 PM
#30
Clark W. Griswold
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- Stem: 3T makes some nice stems (I have two a vintage quill from the 80s and a modern ARX II Pro team) I think they even have a high end adjustable stem or you can get some of them in a +/- 17 degree fixed. The important thing is getting one of the right clamp diameter
- Headset: Cane Creek 110 series (whichever one will fit your frame...get your SHIS straight) or Chris King (but a touch more expensive though also of great quality/MUSA)
- Handlebar: Zipp Vuka Alumina's are my favorite bullhorns but I don't know if they are going to work with Rohloff unless as a bar end mount. Also if you end up with those get a hinged brake lever clamp otherwise no levers aside from TT levers. If not those a set of Nitto bars is never a bad deal (B825AA is their trekking style bars).
-Bar Tape: Lizard Skins DSP 3.2mm nicely padded and comfortable along with the washability and durability you want. Fizik Perfomance is also nice and similar thickness. If going flat bar Ergon is the way to go, the GP5 has the most handpositions but all of their bars have an ergo grip so your palm can rest and blood can flow nicely.
- Saddle: Cambium C17 Carved, broken in comfort that is weatherproof and kind to everyone.
- Seat Post: Thomson Elite (MUSA) lightweight quality tons of people use them or want them.
- Cranks - Sugino probably RD2 (which is a 130 BCD) I would say go with a Super Sugino 75 and Super Zen Chainring but that would probably be to many teeth and blow the budget way out of the water $359 for chainring (minimum 44T) and $639 for cranks but they look so so so so so nice and are buttery smooth and make a good quiet track drivetrain. I would say Paul Road Cranks but proprietary chainrings in limited sizes would cut them out of the equation for touring.
-Bottom Bracket: SKF, Phil Wood or if wanting something cheaper IRD Defiant (that was my 3rd choice if I didn't get the SKF a the price I did)
- Brakes - Paul MotoLites (MUSA) they will fit a wide range of tire sizes and are classy looking and from everything I have heard high performance. Though if you still can, go with disc brakes and either the new Paul Klampers or TRP Spyres are a good choice. Levers depend on bars chosen though if going with a flat bar type lever Cane Creek Flat Top (I love their cross levers) or Paul to keep with brakes
- Fenders - Planet Bike Cascadia, they are easy to install and takes a lot of abuse. I am not a fan of SKS at least mounting wise though have only mounted a few of them.
- Racks - Tubus Cargo Evo (rear) Tubus Duo (Front) or Tara if you want the hoop or need it for some reason. They also do some stainless racks if color is of the upmost importance.
Hope this helps and feel free to ask me any more questions. I am always down to talk components. Enjoy the new bike!
- Headset: Cane Creek 110 series (whichever one will fit your frame...get your SHIS straight) or Chris King (but a touch more expensive though also of great quality/MUSA)
- Handlebar: Zipp Vuka Alumina's are my favorite bullhorns but I don't know if they are going to work with Rohloff unless as a bar end mount. Also if you end up with those get a hinged brake lever clamp otherwise no levers aside from TT levers. If not those a set of Nitto bars is never a bad deal (B825AA is their trekking style bars).
-Bar Tape: Lizard Skins DSP 3.2mm nicely padded and comfortable along with the washability and durability you want. Fizik Perfomance is also nice and similar thickness. If going flat bar Ergon is the way to go, the GP5 has the most handpositions but all of their bars have an ergo grip so your palm can rest and blood can flow nicely.
- Saddle: Cambium C17 Carved, broken in comfort that is weatherproof and kind to everyone.
- Seat Post: Thomson Elite (MUSA) lightweight quality tons of people use them or want them.
- Cranks - Sugino probably RD2 (which is a 130 BCD) I would say go with a Super Sugino 75 and Super Zen Chainring but that would probably be to many teeth and blow the budget way out of the water $359 for chainring (minimum 44T) and $639 for cranks but they look so so so so so nice and are buttery smooth and make a good quiet track drivetrain. I would say Paul Road Cranks but proprietary chainrings in limited sizes would cut them out of the equation for touring.
-Bottom Bracket: SKF, Phil Wood or if wanting something cheaper IRD Defiant (that was my 3rd choice if I didn't get the SKF a the price I did)
- Brakes - Paul MotoLites (MUSA) they will fit a wide range of tire sizes and are classy looking and from everything I have heard high performance. Though if you still can, go with disc brakes and either the new Paul Klampers or TRP Spyres are a good choice. Levers depend on bars chosen though if going with a flat bar type lever Cane Creek Flat Top (I love their cross levers) or Paul to keep with brakes
- Fenders - Planet Bike Cascadia, they are easy to install and takes a lot of abuse. I am not a fan of SKS at least mounting wise though have only mounted a few of them.
- Racks - Tubus Cargo Evo (rear) Tubus Duo (Front) or Tara if you want the hoop or need it for some reason. They also do some stainless racks if color is of the upmost importance.
Hope this helps and feel free to ask me any more questions. I am always down to talk components. Enjoy the new bike!
07-13-15, 07:08 AM
#31
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07-13-15, 07:11 AM
#32
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Definitely a consideration, but are wider chains as readily available in remote places? I probably only need a small length of chain for most situations, but the option to swap out the entire chain if it's too stretched...
07-13-15, 07:20 AM
#33
Banned
Not being laterally flexed, & With pins that can be wider than the outer face of the side plates Full bushing chains can be lengthened
with a chain tool .. modern Derailleur chains , only with those master links.
with a chain tool .. modern Derailleur chains , only with those master links.
07-13-15, 07:27 AM
#34
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I'll have to read up to understand this fully, but I think I get it. With a Rohloff, the chain won't be "bent" in the *unintended* way (which I guess is laterally).
07-13-15, 08:23 AM
#35
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Extending Bicycle Chain and Sprocket Life
Above you asked if I had recommendations on chains. I am content to use cheap 8 speed chains made my KMC. I am sure that there are longer life chains but I get good enough life out of the cheap ones. Thus, I can't get too excited about switching to 1/8 inch chains. I change chains at 0.75 percent stretch, that way my chainrings, rear cog and cassettes on my derailleur bikes last longer. Of those components, the chains are the cheapest, so I would rather change them faster to get longer life out of the more expensive components.
Oil for oil changes costs a lot more than chains based on my chain life. I just ordered two 250ml bottles of oil (regular and cleaning), that should last quite a while and it will significantly reduce my oil change costs.
07-13-15, 08:51 AM
#36
Banned
When making the Hole, now the derailleur chain makers punch a flange in the outer link plate , it is there that the roller is supported .. by the edges .
full bushing chains the bushing piece supports the full width of both roller and Pin.
full bushing chains the bushing piece supports the full width of both roller and Pin.
07-13-15, 10:09 AM
#37
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Hey WAIT a minute there. OP has a Pashley Roadster ???
Put the ROHLOFF on that !!!! Change the rear brakes, Then go ride your limousine.
Yes my tour bike was that heavy and more, 130 lbs. And yes my front brake is also a Sturmey Archer drum dyno, that needs no spare pads or fiddling. I made a shifter holder that clamps on the top tube. I can shift with either hand. Mine has 48/16T 22 GI and got up most hills. Going less than 44T / 20 GI is pretty lame IMO.
Put the ROHLOFF on that !!!! Change the rear brakes, Then go ride your limousine.
Yes my tour bike was that heavy and more, 130 lbs. And yes my front brake is also a Sturmey Archer drum dyno, that needs no spare pads or fiddling. I made a shifter holder that clamps on the top tube. I can shift with either hand. Mine has 48/16T 22 GI and got up most hills. Going less than 44T / 20 GI is pretty lame IMO.
07-13-15, 11:49 AM
#38
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07-13-15, 12:11 PM
#39
Banned
& to shift sideways, the side plate is no taller than the roller..
1/8" wide chains use a 3 piece master link rather than the 2 piece like KMC for derailleur chains.
[I got a bunch of the 3 piece master links , and beefed up my 2 chain-whips, to not come apart
when I had to really lean on them , to tear down freewheels ]
Put an old style Whipperman chain on in place of the original Rohloff chain
(they made chains first, used to be the chain source Campag supplied .. )
the old full bushing chain has lasted a long time.
1/8" wide chains use a 3 piece master link rather than the 2 piece like KMC for derailleur chains.
[I got a bunch of the 3 piece master links , and beefed up my 2 chain-whips, to not come apart
when I had to really lean on them , to tear down freewheels ]
Put an old style Whipperman chain on in place of the original Rohloff chain
(they made chains first, used to be the chain source Campag supplied .. )
the old full bushing chain has lasted a long time.
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-13-15 at 12:16 PM.
07-13-15, 12:26 PM
#40
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- Stem: 3T makes some nice stems (I have two a vintage quill from the 80s and a modern ARX II Pro team) I think they even have a high end adjustable stem or you can get some of them in a +/- 17 degree fixed. The important thing is getting one of the right clamp diameter
- Headset: Cane Creek 110 series (whichever one will fit your frame...get your SHIS straight) or Chris King (but a touch more expensive though also of great quality/MUSA)
- Handlebar: Zipp Vuka Alumina's are my favorite bullhorns but I don't know if they are going to work with Rohloff unless as a bar end mount. Also if you end up with those get a hinged brake lever clamp otherwise no levers aside from TT levers. If not those a set of Nitto bars is never a bad deal (B825AA is their trekking style bars).
-Bar Tape: Lizard Skins DSP 3.2mm nicely padded and comfortable along with the washability and durability you want. Fizik Perfomance is also nice and similar thickness. If going flat bar Ergon is the way to go, the GP5 has the most handpositions but all of their bars have an ergo grip so your palm can rest and blood can flow nicely.
- Saddle: Cambium C17 Carved, broken in comfort that is weatherproof and kind to everyone.
- Seat Post: Thomson Elite (MUSA) lightweight quality tons of people use them or want them.
- Cranks - Sugino probably RD2 (which is a 130 BCD) I would say go with a Super Sugino 75 and Super Zen Chainring but that would probably be to many teeth and blow the budget way out of the water $359 for chainring (minimum 44T) and $639 for cranks but they look so so so so so nice and are buttery smooth and make a good quiet track drivetrain. I would say Paul Road Cranks but proprietary chainrings in limited sizes would cut them out of the equation for touring.
-Bottom Bracket: SKF, Phil Wood or if wanting something cheaper IRD Defiant (that was my 3rd choice if I didn't get the SKF a the price I did)
- Brakes - Paul MotoLites (MUSA) they will fit a wide range of tire sizes and are classy looking and from everything I have heard high performance. Though if you still can, go with disc brakes and either the new Paul Klampers or TRP Spyres are a good choice. Levers depend on bars chosen though if going with a flat bar type lever Cane Creek Flat Top (I love their cross levers) or Paul to keep with brakes
- Fenders - Planet Bike Cascadia, they are easy to install and takes a lot of abuse. I am not a fan of SKS at least mounting wise though have only mounted a few of them.
- Racks - Tubus Cargo Evo (rear) Tubus Duo (Front) or Tara if you want the hoop or need it for some reason. They also do some stainless racks if color is of the upmost importance.
Hope this helps and feel free to ask me any more questions. I am always down to talk components. Enjoy the new bike!
- Headset: Cane Creek 110 series (whichever one will fit your frame...get your SHIS straight) or Chris King (but a touch more expensive though also of great quality/MUSA)
- Handlebar: Zipp Vuka Alumina's are my favorite bullhorns but I don't know if they are going to work with Rohloff unless as a bar end mount. Also if you end up with those get a hinged brake lever clamp otherwise no levers aside from TT levers. If not those a set of Nitto bars is never a bad deal (B825AA is their trekking style bars).
-Bar Tape: Lizard Skins DSP 3.2mm nicely padded and comfortable along with the washability and durability you want. Fizik Perfomance is also nice and similar thickness. If going flat bar Ergon is the way to go, the GP5 has the most handpositions but all of their bars have an ergo grip so your palm can rest and blood can flow nicely.
- Saddle: Cambium C17 Carved, broken in comfort that is weatherproof and kind to everyone.
- Seat Post: Thomson Elite (MUSA) lightweight quality tons of people use them or want them.
- Cranks - Sugino probably RD2 (which is a 130 BCD) I would say go with a Super Sugino 75 and Super Zen Chainring but that would probably be to many teeth and blow the budget way out of the water $359 for chainring (minimum 44T) and $639 for cranks but they look so so so so so nice and are buttery smooth and make a good quiet track drivetrain. I would say Paul Road Cranks but proprietary chainrings in limited sizes would cut them out of the equation for touring.
-Bottom Bracket: SKF, Phil Wood or if wanting something cheaper IRD Defiant (that was my 3rd choice if I didn't get the SKF a the price I did)
- Brakes - Paul MotoLites (MUSA) they will fit a wide range of tire sizes and are classy looking and from everything I have heard high performance. Though if you still can, go with disc brakes and either the new Paul Klampers or TRP Spyres are a good choice. Levers depend on bars chosen though if going with a flat bar type lever Cane Creek Flat Top (I love their cross levers) or Paul to keep with brakes
- Fenders - Planet Bike Cascadia, they are easy to install and takes a lot of abuse. I am not a fan of SKS at least mounting wise though have only mounted a few of them.
- Racks - Tubus Cargo Evo (rear) Tubus Duo (Front) or Tara if you want the hoop or need it for some reason. They also do some stainless racks if color is of the upmost importance.
Hope this helps and feel free to ask me any more questions. I am always down to talk components. Enjoy the new bike!
07-13-15, 12:32 PM
#41
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& to shift sideways, the side plate is no taller than the roller..
1/8" wide chains use a 3 piece master link rather than the 2 piece like KMC for derailleur chains.
[I got a bunch of the 3 piece master links , and beefed up my 2 chain-whips, to not come apart
when I had to really lean on them , to tear down freewheels ]
Put an old style Whipperman chain on in place of the original Rohloff chain
(they made chains first, used to be the chain source Campag supplied .. )
the old full bushing chain has lasted a long time.
1/8" wide chains use a 3 piece master link rather than the 2 piece like KMC for derailleur chains.
[I got a bunch of the 3 piece master links , and beefed up my 2 chain-whips, to not come apart
when I had to really lean on them , to tear down freewheels ]
Put an old style Whipperman chain on in place of the original Rohloff chain
(they made chains first, used to be the chain source Campag supplied .. )
the old full bushing chain has lasted a long time.
07-13-15, 12:34 PM
#42
Banned
Oh no, not another Chain Lube topic .. 
there's already dozens of those already .
Like clean? get a Gates Belt drive.
there's already dozens of those already .Like clean? get a Gates Belt drive.
07-13-15, 12:34 PM
#43
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Hey WAIT a minute there. OP has a Pashley Roadster ???
Put the ROHLOFF on that !!!! Change the rear brakes, Then go ride your limousine.
Yes my tour bike was that heavy and more, 130 lbs. And yes my front brake is also a Sturmey Archer drum dyno, that needs no spare pads or fiddling. I made a shifter holder that clamps on the top tube. I can shift with either hand. Mine has 48/16T 22 GI and got up most hills. Going less than 44T / 20 GI is pretty lame IMO.
Put the ROHLOFF on that !!!! Change the rear brakes, Then go ride your limousine.
Yes my tour bike was that heavy and more, 130 lbs. And yes my front brake is also a Sturmey Archer drum dyno, that needs no spare pads or fiddling. I made a shifter holder that clamps on the top tube. I can shift with either hand. Mine has 48/16T 22 GI and got up most hills. Going less than 44T / 20 GI is pretty lame IMO.
07-13-15, 12:35 PM
#44
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07-13-15, 01:07 PM
#46
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Yeah, that's what I learned early on from a bike guy, and it stuck with me all these years. He said, "lube *on* the chain doesn't help it... as long as there's lube on the moving parts, you're good. So take it all off."
07-13-15, 01:10 PM
#47
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Belt drives, eh? I think I'll stick to the tRusty chains, even though I've heard they are quiet, light, and last longer than you'd think. But chains look great. I love the look and design of chains. I've been looking for a bike chain bracelet that I saw on a guy once. It was designed, but I guess I could make my own from real chain.
07-13-15, 02:57 PM
#49
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07-13-15, 03:11 PM
#50
Banned
The skin ? , allergies are more individual .. say My Skin since that is your issue..
clear coat, being paint , will wear off ... probably simpler to just drop the whole Idea.
clear coat, being paint , will wear off ... probably simpler to just drop the whole Idea.