photos of your touring bike set up.
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
photos of your touring bike set up.
come the new year im going to build me a touring bike (again).
kinda settled on the frameset sps steel tourer 725 tubing .
just wondering have any of u folks got your bikes set up with dynamo .lights front and rear also plug 2 system for plugging in your battery charger .
just looking for clever ways to hide the wiring from the dynamo to rear light.
so if any photos of your well set up tourer please post .
thank's
anto.
oh meant to add is shimano still making 9 speed 105 or ultegra sti leavers.
i reckon the 9 speed gear was the best strong and reliable .
kinda settled on the frameset sps steel tourer 725 tubing .
just wondering have any of u folks got your bikes set up with dynamo .lights front and rear also plug 2 system for plugging in your battery charger .
just looking for clever ways to hide the wiring from the dynamo to rear light.
so if any photos of your well set up tourer please post .
thank's
anto.
oh meant to add is shimano still making 9 speed 105 or ultegra sti leavers.
i reckon the 9 speed gear was the best strong and reliable .
#2
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Bikes: Surly LHT 26in 52cm 2008
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My Surly LHT 26in 52cm 2008 with 22-32-42t Shimano Deore crankset and 11-34t Sram pc-970 cassette and Sram pg-971 and XT m771 RD and XT M771 FD and XT m771 9speed thumb shifters
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Here's my last setup:
2014 Ridley Fenix, Shimano 10 speed 105, no idea what gears and **** but it's a compact double up front. Stock except for bar tape, tires and replacement rear wheel. Riding 25mm Gatorskins at the moment.
I'm experimenting with different frame bags and handlebar bags so I don't have all my gear in the Viscacha. I like the bag, it was just a little wobbly being that fully loaded.
Total weight in that pic is around 30lbs.
2014 Ridley Fenix, Shimano 10 speed 105, no idea what gears and **** but it's a compact double up front. Stock except for bar tape, tires and replacement rear wheel. Riding 25mm Gatorskins at the moment.
I'm experimenting with different frame bags and handlebar bags so I don't have all my gear in the Viscacha. I like the bag, it was just a little wobbly being that fully loaded.
Total weight in that pic is around 30lbs.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
just found this video on utube fantastic set up but expensive i bet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYRqIuYkTNY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYRqIuYkTNY
#7
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I zip tied my wiring from the front fork drop outs to the fork crown where I have some quick release 2.8mm spade connectors to my light. But, tail light is battery instead of wired. So, nothing to show for tail light wiring.
That said, if I was going to wire the tail light, I would have wrapped the wire around the rear brake cable or maybe rear gear cable to the rear rack mounts where I would have used quick release connectors in the wire and then zip tied another wire to the light at the rear of the rack.
The quick release connectors make it easier to remove the light, fork, etc., without having to cut wiring.
You can see in this photo the 2.8mm spade connectors I used at my fork crown. This light is also my USB charger, thus I have no comments on wiring one at the stem cap like you plan.
I got 2.8mm spade connectors because that is what B&M uses for some of their tail light wiring, although I eventually decided not to wire a tail light. I bought the connectors on ebay. The ones below are an example of what I bought for connectors.
U s Seller Gold Tone 40 Pcs 2 8mm Crimp Terminal Female Male Connector Spade | eBay
That said, if I was going to wire the tail light, I would have wrapped the wire around the rear brake cable or maybe rear gear cable to the rear rack mounts where I would have used quick release connectors in the wire and then zip tied another wire to the light at the rear of the rack.
The quick release connectors make it easier to remove the light, fork, etc., without having to cut wiring.
You can see in this photo the 2.8mm spade connectors I used at my fork crown. This light is also my USB charger, thus I have no comments on wiring one at the stem cap like you plan.
I got 2.8mm spade connectors because that is what B&M uses for some of their tail light wiring, although I eventually decided not to wire a tail light. I bought the connectors on ebay. The ones below are an example of what I bought for connectors.
U s Seller Gold Tone 40 Pcs 2 8mm Crimp Terminal Female Male Connector Spade | eBay
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
very neat job is there a usb socket in that headlight.
i have good battery headlights but when i build this bike im going for a shimano dynamo front wheel i had one on my last tourer worked fantastic.
my new carbon road bike has internal cable routing and its a very neat job no cables to be seen i like that.
i want to get this new tourer as near as possible with all the bells and whistles .lol.
i have good battery headlights but when i build this bike im going for a shimano dynamo front wheel i had one on my last tourer worked fantastic.
my new carbon road bike has internal cable routing and its a very neat job no cables to be seen i like that.
i want to get this new tourer as near as possible with all the bells and whistles .lol.
#9
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Yup. USB charger under the gray cover on the mounting bracket. I either have a light or power to a USB charger, but not both.
The light/USB charger is not sold in USA, I ordered it from Germany. The wiring for the tail light is bundled up under the mount (under the USB port) since some day I might use that wiring, I did not want to cut it off.
The main reason that I did not go with a wired tail light is that I have not found a wired tail light that will flash, I think they are all constantly on. It is my understanding that most dynohubs and lights are based on German laws, and I think you can't have a flashing tail light in Germany. So, I figured I would always use a battery tail light anyway since I usually use it in flashing mode, so I did not bother to buy a wired tail light.
I described the light and USB charger in detail at this posting:
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/10...l#post18250964
The light/USB charger is not sold in USA, I ordered it from Germany. The wiring for the tail light is bundled up under the mount (under the USB port) since some day I might use that wiring, I did not want to cut it off.
The main reason that I did not go with a wired tail light is that I have not found a wired tail light that will flash, I think they are all constantly on. It is my understanding that most dynohubs and lights are based on German laws, and I think you can't have a flashing tail light in Germany. So, I figured I would always use a battery tail light anyway since I usually use it in flashing mode, so I did not bother to buy a wired tail light.
I described the light and USB charger in detail at this posting:
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/10...l#post18250964
#10
Senior Member
I've thought about dynamos, but I think there are simpler and less expensive ways to generate power and light. I use a Petzvl head lamp and a simple rear light that both run on AAA batteries; it's easy to carry spares and resupply if necessary. To keep my iPhone charged I use an Anker external battery. A full charge has enough for a week's worth of iPhone usage and it's a habit now to top it off whenever I stop close to an outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/9000mAh-Portab...XENM592HJ8R5EZ
FYI here is my setup, you can see my red tail light on my saddlebag.
https://www.amazon.com/9000mAh-Portab...XENM592HJ8R5EZ
FYI here is my setup, you can see my red tail light on my saddlebag.
Last edited by nun; 11-14-15 at 08:33 PM.
#11
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#12
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Anyone have a non-Dynamo solution for really good lights? Looking, ideally, for a light I can recharge at an outlet that has enough juice for 3-5 hours of night riding on rough roads.
Cheers
Cheers
#14
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I was using an Axiom Lazer 200, just tonight I switched to a Cygolite Metro 750. Definitely prefer the Cygolite. Brighter with a longer runtime, better daytime flash, and a larger, easier to find button.
For recharging I carry a 20000mah anker battery. It lasted nearly a week on one charge my last tour. I'd charge my phone, lights and go pro with it while sleeping in my tent and hanging out around camp. I'd also use it to charge my Axiom light during extended night riding. I'd keep it in one of those top tube pouches and run a USB cable to the light.
I make sure to only buy lights that can be run while charging.
#15
Senior Member
Peter White has a comprehensive selection of high quality lights, some are very bright.
Lighting systems
Petzl also make some bright rechargeable lights
Lighting systems
Petzl also make some bright rechargeable lights
Last edited by nun; 11-14-15 at 09:06 PM.
#17
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If you look up just for a second you will have found the already existing thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/69...aded-rigs.html
@mdilthey: Light and Motion all the way. Awesome lights, customer service, quality and they are MUSA! The Commuter Combos (front and rear in different lumens) would probably be your best bet but if you need some extra brightness the Taz lights go up to 1500 lumens (or maybe more now)
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/69...aded-rigs.html
@mdilthey: Light and Motion all the way. Awesome lights, customer service, quality and they are MUSA! The Commuter Combos (front and rear in different lumens) would probably be your best bet but if you need some extra brightness the Taz lights go up to 1500 lumens (or maybe more now)
#18
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I have been using the Cygolite Metro headlight and Hotshot tail light (got them in a combo pack). They are USB rechargeable. I have used the headlight every ride for the past couple years. The tail light I originally had mounted on the back of my helmet but I haven't done that this year. I use a Cat Eye TL-LD1000 mounted to my rear rack. It uses AA batteries. I have not had to replace them very often.
#19
Slow Rider
DINOTTE LIGHTING | ULTIMATE TRAIL AND ROAD LIGHTS
I have the XML-3 version and on low I get about 400+ lumens for more than 10 hours of run time.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
this is some bike custom of course but what a build pure class.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/woodru...s/20521949580/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/woodru...s/20521949580/
#21
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Thread Starter
this is some bike custom of course but what a build pure class.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/woodru...s/20521949580/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/woodru...s/20521949580/
anyway well out of my price range .
#23
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Last year:
Last month. The lighter tent needs repairing so I had to go with the Hubba Hubba:
Last month. The lighter tent needs repairing so I had to go with the Hubba Hubba:
#24
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Ride during a full moon? Just joking.
#25
Senior Member
Here is my Hunq taken enroute during one of my summer trips.
I prefer a BM tire driven dyno for touring because they are reliable without ANY
drag factor when not using the lights (which is most of the time).
Somebody on this forum once suggested using shrink tubes to create a series of conduits along the frame for the wiring.
I just glued them in place with Shoe Goo (silicone adhesive) and it keeps the wiring in place and out of sight quite nicely.
If they get knocked loose for any reason, the glue just peels off the frame with a little thumb pressure. Reapply and replace, no problem.
Marc
I prefer a BM tire driven dyno for touring because they are reliable without ANY
drag factor when not using the lights (which is most of the time).
Somebody on this forum once suggested using shrink tubes to create a series of conduits along the frame for the wiring.
I just glued them in place with Shoe Goo (silicone adhesive) and it keeps the wiring in place and out of sight quite nicely.
If they get knocked loose for any reason, the glue just peels off the frame with a little thumb pressure. Reapply and replace, no problem.
Marc