numbernine

spacing is likely ~126mm so I'd have to cold set to 130mm. i widened my daily to 130 with a 2x4 and my roommates thought i was crazy.

seems like the frame could accommodate some pretty thick tires (37? 40?) no problem as long as i don't run fenders.

numbernine

that's the plan. i think this bike is the 23" model but it feels quite a bit smaller than my 58cm Gran Sprint. i'm guessing this is because of the geometry differences and my being used to riding the more aggressive Gran Sprint everyday. nevertheless, i'm going to raise the bars with a tall Technomic stem and add barcons that i've had around.

djb

Get back to us with the gearing specifics if you'd like some experienced opinions on that. I too have ridden the west coast and can give low gear ideas for a given bike weight.

numbernine

Freewheel is 5 speed 14 to 32 and rings are 36,47,52. Still getting used to the half step.

bikemig 

There are advantages to half step gearing when running 5 on the back as you get more closely spaced gearing than you would with a larger jump in chain ring size; the downside is that it's complicated and involves a lot of double shifting.

The old fashioned way to figure this out was to do a print out of your gear ratios and tape them on your handlebars.

Also bar end shifters are good here because of the double shifting.

Lastly, for touring you might want to ditch the 36 and go with something more hill friendly like a 28; this will give you a half step and a granny gearing.

By the way, turning this into a 3 x 7 is not difficult. You'll need a longer axle and some spacers plus obviously a new freewheel like this, https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ3.../dp/B003RLNOKC

The parts aren't expensive but you will have to redish the wheel and spread the frame from 120 mmt to 126 mm.

The shimano mega range of freewheels are interesting because they are fairly closely spaced in the first six (14 to 24 with 2 tooth jumps on the 14-34 freewheel I linked to) with a big jump to the 34 on the rear. This will let you run a bigger gap up front (say a 52-40-28) and still have gears nicely spaced (I haven't done the gear calcs so this is off the top of my head). That way you will avoid all the double shifts as well.

numbernine

Looks the the crank arms BCD will not easily allow a ring smaller than 36 nor will the front derailleur. A quick look around shows new touring bikes are sold with a front ring in the 22-26 range and a 32 large cog in back. To get the sort of ratios that come on modern tourers I'd have to replace the FD and crankset. Maybe my knees would thank me...

numbernine

update on tire choice. decided to use an REI giftcard I got for Christmas and their selection is limited so I ended up going with $25 a pop Pasela PTs 27x1 1/4 which I think have whatever the Tourguard magic is. I have Paselas on my Paramount.

Panaracer Tourguard Pasela Bike Tire - 27 x 1.25 - REI.com

I don't expect these to have as great a lifetime or sidewall strength as Marathons but I like the lively ride quality, price and looks.

chasm54

I've got the Pasela 700x32 on my bike at the moment. It's a very nice touring tyre.

bikemig 

Front derailleurs are typically adjustable. The limiting factor is likely to be the crank. I don't know what crank you have but a typical triple crank back in the day would have a 110/74 bcd which would let you get as low as 24 teeth for the small chain ring.

Do you know the bcd of your crank? Model name?

You may find this useful, Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Crank/Chainring Bolt Circle Diameter Crib Sheet

I'd be surprised if the crank can't go lower than 36 up front and yeah you probably want something smaller for touring on the west coast. You should be able to pick up a 110/74 bcd triple from a bike co-op for not too much coin. Pretty much every old mountain bike came with a 110/74 bcd crank so there are a lot of those cranks floating around. Heck you can one from this site if you look/ask in the C&V for sale forum. The classic and vintage people are bike hoarders, , and someone is bound to have a triple they'd be willing to let go at a reasonable price if you ask.

If you want a new one, sugino makes excellent cranks. This is one of my favorites, Sugino XD600 Cranksets - Outside Outfitters

But seriously you can get a tour worthy triple crank for less. First figure out the bcd on your existing crank. If you can't get the gears you want using your existing crank, then start to hunt for a cheap, serviceable triple.

I just double checked your gearing; a 36 running on a 32 isn't ideal (30.4 gear inches) but it can work esp. if you're fit and don't pack a lot of weight. Everything else being equal, you'd like a smaller granny ring than a 36 though.

djb

his crank really doesnt look like it can take much smaller than the 36, Im going from the photo and comparing it to my 110/74 and that looks a lot bigger.
I second getting a used crank with at the minimum a 28 and a 24 would be better. Again, a good bike coop may have some old parts, and will help you figure out if you need to change the bb with a new crank, and or put in a sealed type bb, and get rid of the ball bearing type on it (reasonable sealed bb can be only $15 or something)

but you will need to see what you can find in a more suitable crank and theres a good chance the existing fd can just be lowered.

but again, get some good advice from a place that isnt out to sell you expensive stuff--but a smaller crankset will help immensely. 5 speed is always going to be limiited, but it comes down to budget.

i considered changing my early 90s 7 speed tourer to 9 but just decided not to and fixed it up as it is, as the cost would have been a certain amount and I put htat towards a new tourer about 6 years ago.

Salamandrine 

I don't think it's worth it to put a new crank and gearing on this bike. Maybe it'd be worth it if it was a Specialissima, Miyata 1000, trek 720 or something fancier, but you will spend more than that bike is worth. Assuming you are young, 36x32 is low enough, unless you really like to pack heavy. I'm from norcal and grew up cycling the coast, btw.

Slightly OT but it's good idea IMHO to ride some miles before you set out for your trip. Muscles strengthen almost immediately, but tendons take a month or two of base miles.

Again, clips/straps and shoes or clipless pedals and shoes will be extremely helpful in climbing hills.

Also, don't even think about spreading the frame unless you align the dropouts too. Pay a shop to do it if you must. Misaligned dropouts will induce broken axles, which you do not want on tour. Personally I would just leave it alone. Half step makes more sense with a 5 speed rear then 7.

mstateglfr 

A used 110/74 crank, in good shape, is $20-50 on eBay.
How is that too much? Even a new Sugino at $100 would be worth it if it'll make the bike work.

I simply don't understand the thought of approach that you shouldn't spend much money on a bike if you can't get that money out of it when you sell it. That approach completely ignores the fact that you benefit from the changes while owning the bike.
Keep the old crank and slap it on when you sell the bike, and keep the nice newer 110/74 for a new bike or build.

The claim that you will be spending g more than the bike is worth is a good approach for some beater, perhaps, but not for a bike that will be used to ride down a coast and more. You should want components that work for the job you plan to do, while keeping cost in mind. A $100 crank is hardly more than the bike is worth.
Iconic classic touring bikes aren't the only ones deserving of upgrades.

bikemig 

For example, Takagi AR T Triple Crankset Touring 80s 48 42 28 | eBay

or https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-Stoc...3D301832073285

This is a fine crank, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Shim...3D391077479519

Salamandrine 

OK, you make some fair points. If you can get a crank for $20-50, sure, it's worth the effort if the existing gearing isn't right. What I meant was, converting to 7+ rear and swapping the crankset is going to get expensive real quick. There could easily be a bunch of unforeseen costs: respacing the frame and realigning the dropouts and hangar isn't going to be that cheap. There's a good chance a new crank will need a new spindle length. Not to mention the cost of a freewheel, longer axle, spacers, chain and tools.

Anyhow, how much to spend on any particular bikes upgrades is a matter of opinion, and I did say it was in my opinion.

It would be prudent to be sure that the stock gearing isn't enough before throwing lots of money at it. Perhaps try a test run or overnighter up Mt Tam or similar.

Miele Man

With E(vil)Bay you have to really watch out for the shipping cost as that with the purchase price can add up to pretty close to a local B&M (Brick and Mortar) shop's price and at the b&s you can actually see what you're getting.

A B&M shop might even have a used crankset you can buy. They often have them leftover from "Upgrades".

Oh, something I noticed with a lot of old bikes is that though they came with double cranksets the bottom bracket spindle was more suitable for a triple.

Cheers

Miele Man

Is it a freewheel on the rear wheel? how many cogs? What's the biggest cog on it? Are you planning on taking much gear? Approximate weight of gear and food?

I ask that because a rear cassette wheel from a bicycle co-op and a cassette with more teeth might be a way to lower your lowest gear if you need it. A cassette wheel also has the bearing cones further apart than a freewheel wheel does and that greater distance makes the cassette wheel a fair bit stronger than a freewheel because bent or broken axles are very rare on cassette wheels.

Cheers

bikemig 

This is an old bike; it has 5 on the back and it's freewheel, the wheel is spaced at 120 mm. That's part of the discussion.

Miele Man

sorry, it seems I missed wherever it said it was a 5 speed freewheel.

How many teeth is the largest rear cog?

Cheers

djb

he gave the info:

"Freewheel is 5 speed 14 to 32 and rings are 36,47,52. Still getting used to the half step"

a 36-32 is waaaay too high for any sort of touring carrying stuff, thats my opinion even from commuting a fair amount with up to 20lbs of stuff on my bike (I mention that number if the fellow went with a really really light amount of stuff on his bike) but realistically, a touring weight is going to be more most likely, and it will be a struggle on hills. I've done this trip and it sure aint flat, thats for sure.

30.5 gear inches will be tough and hard on knees, won't be fun. I ride a lot on hills and consider 25 gear inches too high for anything with hills when carrying even a moderate load, and have felt that way since I was the age of this fellow.

numbernine

Looks like its got 118 BCD- minimum ring 36. An SR Super Custom. So "custom" in fact that in the next production year (1984) they shipped with Sugino 52-46-28:
https://univegacatalogs.files.wordpr...ga-catalog.pdf

I think I will keep a look out for 110 so I can get that 28 or smaller for hills. People must have had much stronger legs in the past!

djb

Re stronger knees in the past, in my experience with some older friends, no they just fracked up their knees so when in their 40s and 50s they have very crotchety knees.

Salamandrine 

Well when I was in college I toured with a 14-27 freewheel and a 42x52 double setup. Full bags and lots of mountains in CA and OR. Since my race bike had a 13-19 or 13-21 most of the time, that seemed plenty low at the time. So maybe I'm not the right person to give advice anyway. I do think that it's going to vary a lot between individuals. Simply riding the bike a lot before leaving will give an idea of what you need.

BTW I am 50 now and my knees are fine. The old advice was to ride a couple months of long easy miles before any sort of hard pushing. It still works today I'm sure.

saddlesores

back when i toured heavier...

sugina triple 24-36-46

shimano megarange 7-spd 14-34 (super heavy duty: 4 bags + trailer)
tires 700*42

sunrace 7-spd 13-30 (heavy duty: 4 bags OR 2 bags + trailer)
tires 26*1.95

Cougrrcj

I see you went with the Pasela PTs. I'll be using either Continental SuperSport Plus ($21 from BTD) or Panaracer Pasela PT at $29 (formerly Pasela TourGuard) in 27x1-1/4 on my Univega when it comes out of detailed overhaul over this Winter.

You could easily replace your current five-speed freewheel with a SunTour Ultra-6 since it has the same 'stack height' as a five speed freewheel. I was lucky with my old Fuji since I could even fit a regular-spaced SunTour six speed freewheel without interference. Check one of the online gearing calculators to see which freewheel gives you the most choices in your preferred ratio (here in flat northern Ohio I tend to stay within 75-85 gear-inches most of the time, but with my 48/38/28 triple crank and 14-26 six-speed freewheel, my available ratios go from 31-101gi.

bikemig 

Good job of doing research (looks like that graduate school education is doing you some good, ) Do a post on your bike in the C&V forum and say you're looking for a 110/74 bcd crank; you'd be surprised what those hoarders have lying around, . Also go check out your local bike co-op. Another (and possibly no cost) option is to find a vintage mtb with a 110/74 bcd crank (those are pretty common) and do a swap on the cranks. Vintage mtbs tend to be dirt cheap but not in the Bay area. You live in a hot market and did good finding that Univega for $150. Heck that would be a fair price even in Des Moines.

Also do you have 120 or 126 on the back? I'm guessing 120 because you have a 5 speed but one measurement is worth a 1,000 guesses.

If 120, you can look for an ultra 6 but the 110/74 bcd crank frankly is a much more useful change. Ultra 6s are tough to find and most folks who have those are likely to hoard them cuz they're useful on an old bike. Frankly I wouldn't waste my time looking for an ultra 6; if you want extra gears on the back, spread the frame and go with 7 in the rear. Seven as opposed to five on the back is not a big deal.

All you care about is the low and maybe (just maybe) the high gear; there the limiting factor is the triple. Having more in-between gears are nice (that's what the half step is designed to do) but not a big deal; the low gear really matters. There are days you are going to hit those headwinds and hills and you're going to beat up and that low gear will be sweet.

I toured across the US on 3 x 6 gearing with a low of a 28 running on a 30 (that's around a 25 inch low gear). I was very fit (I was doing the local training races) and I made the trip but that gear was not quite, IMHO, low enough.

I did the trip with 4 bags and a full touring load. I've lightened my load since then which helps with climbing.