Comparing Topeak Road Morph G and Lezyne Micro Floor Drive Pumps.
#26
Senior Member
I've only used the Lezyne HV version.
I concur that the pulling out the presto valves can be a PITA.
I'd recommend the non gauge version.
I bought my pump based on the, at the time, easy ability to source and purchase parts for it.
Most of the online bike part stores I use i.e. Wiggle, Bike24, Chainreaction cycles etc., sold the pumps and parts around the time I initially bought the pump.
A year and a half down the track, the pump has started leaking and examination showed the gauge had developed a crack.
Given that the pump is permanently attached to my bike 24/7, I don't believe it is impact damage, but rather sun UV damage.
Of course I haven't been able now to source another gauge and so will have to buy another pump.
I will be buying the same Lezyne pump but this time, I'll be getting the non gauge version, as apart from the gauge, which started being wildly inaccurate very early on in the peace, and its apparent lack of easy availability, the pump over all has proved to be a good one.
I concur that the pulling out the presto valves can be a PITA.
I'd recommend the non gauge version.
I bought my pump based on the, at the time, easy ability to source and purchase parts for it.
Most of the online bike part stores I use i.e. Wiggle, Bike24, Chainreaction cycles etc., sold the pumps and parts around the time I initially bought the pump.
A year and a half down the track, the pump has started leaking and examination showed the gauge had developed a crack.
Given that the pump is permanently attached to my bike 24/7, I don't believe it is impact damage, but rather sun UV damage.
Of course I haven't been able now to source another gauge and so will have to buy another pump.
I will be buying the same Lezyne pump but this time, I'll be getting the non gauge version, as apart from the gauge, which started being wildly inaccurate very early on in the peace, and its apparent lack of easy availability, the pump over all has proved to be a good one.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 589
Bikes: Thorn Nomad Mk2, 1996 Trek 520, Workcycles Transport, Brompton
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I had a flat out riding a few days ago. Pumping up after patching, and then unscrewing the chuck of my Lezyne HV, ouch, indeed the removable Presta valve core came off and all the air followed in a big hurry. I used pliers to snug that valve core down a lot more, and the second pumping worked.
#28
stoic yankee
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: E-Rock Cnty, NH.
Posts: 41
Bikes: Cannondale Synapse, Specialized Roubaix.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thank you for the prompt response and most professional review. Yes, I was asking about the presta valve. I will probably be picking one up soon.
#29
Senior Member
Not sure if anyone mentioned it in this thread or not, but the Road Morph G has a sister that may actually be more suitable, especially for those touring with wider tires, but maybe even those using 32mm wide tires. They may want to consider the Mountain Morph. I am always surprised how seldom it gets mentioned when it may be the most suitable pump in the Topeak line for many tourists.
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,112
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3426 Post(s)
Liked 1,441 Times
in
1,122 Posts
Even if they are unwilling to provide that, it would only cost you the time to ask.
#31
Senior Member
Looking at mine, the hose looks like it could be replaced on the pump quite easily if you could obtain one from the company. If that happened to me, I would contact the company and inquire about parts. Initially I would ask about warranty replacement, if they said no then I would followup and ask about getting a hose that is the length of the hose on the non-gauge version to used instead.
Even if they are unwilling to provide that, it would only cost you the time to ask.
Even if they are unwilling to provide that, it would only cost you the time to ask.
I've simply lacked the energy.
Finding my reason for initially purchasing the pump (an abundance of easily found online parts from multiple sources), turning to err rubbish (parts no longer stocked), simply sucked the wind from my sales.
I've been making do with a pump I found on the roadside that I picked up.
But yeah, I really ought to now make a bigger effort as its been quite a spell since its failure.
I wasn't so much worried about trying for a warranty repair as simply buying either a gauge or a complete hose without a gauge, but with a minimum of fuss.
A buy now button is so much less energy than correspondence and the waiting on answers.
I'll have another look for a source and if no luck, I'll try contacting the company.
Like I said, I love the pump and simply blame the excessive UV light down here in Australia, which I think was likely responsible for making the clear plastic gauge brittle.
#32
Full Member
check valves?
Lots of great info on these pumps. I got one of each.
I'm having trouble with the check valve on my road morph. First of all, where the heck is it? I've taken just about the whole darn thing apart and (since I haven't fixed it) I'm not sure I've gotten to the check valve. Is it in the head, the body? Just not sure what I'm looking for. Help a guy out, willya?
I'm having trouble with the check valve on my road morph. First of all, where the heck is it? I've taken just about the whole darn thing apart and (since I haven't fixed it) I'm not sure I've gotten to the check valve. Is it in the head, the body? Just not sure what I'm looking for. Help a guy out, willya?
#33
Full Member
check valves?
Lots of great info on these pumps. I got one of each.
I'm having trouble with the check valve on my road morph. First of all, where the heck is it? I've taken just about the whole darn thing apart and (since I haven't fixed it) I'm not sure I've gotten to the check valve. Is it in the head, the body? Just not sure what I'm looking for. Help a guy out, willya?
I'm having trouble with the check valve on my road morph. First of all, where the heck is it? I've taken just about the whole darn thing apart and (since I haven't fixed it) I'm not sure I've gotten to the check valve. Is it in the head, the body? Just not sure what I'm looking for. Help a guy out, willya?
#34
Banned
NB right angle thumb lock will fit in tight spaces, that the end on screw on will not..
you have check valves in the stem of the tube in the tire.
you have check valves in the stem of the tube in the tire.
#35
Senior Member
What's a check valve?
I started out with a Topeak. Either road morph or mountain, I can't remember. The gauge was kind of iffy. Several pumps and it wouldn't move, then it would make a jump. It would get me in the general ball park, but I certainly couldn't fine-tune the pressure. But for a roadside flat recovery, it was fine. Until it wasn't. One day it just stopped pushing air. There was a leak, somewhere I think. Fortunately I was near a gas station and had a presta/schrader adapter. I probably could have ordered the rebuild kit, but I was a little disappointed in the pump's failure. I didn't use it that much, but it was emergency gear, so when it failed to come through in an emergency, I decided to try Lezyne.
It feels way more solid. I got it without the gauge, High Volume version. I've been moving to fatter and fatter tires, so that made sense. It also helps that with wider tires and lower pressure, I can actually gauge the pressure by feel. I can't put a number on it, but I can tell if it's where I need it to be. I've been meaning to get a separate gauge anyway, but generally there doesn't seem to be a need. I've pumped my tires up from flat, got them to a sufficient pressure, and spent a couple of weeks on them using just that pump. With Topeak it usually felt like a stop-gap measure until I could get to a floor pump. But Topeak was almost always on higher pressure tires, too, so not a fair comparison. Still, I have more confidence in the Lezyne. I like the metal foot peg, as opposed to the plastic, Topeak one that always felt like I was one misstep away from breaking it. I like the screw-on attachment to the valve more than the Topeak clip on. I fortunately haven't had the problem with unscrewing the valve core. Also, I don't think I've used the Lezyne for a schrader valve, but I have used the Topeak. The process of switching the pump over is not great. The first couple of times it was like a puzzle, but then I got used to it. But the Lezyne: just unscrew and flip that little chuck at the end. I really like that method.
My current Lezyne HV is less than 2 years old, so it could be subject to the same failure that my Topeak suffered, since I feel like I had that Topeak pump for 5 years or so, at least. But so far the Lezyne feels like it's much better quality, and I find it better to use than the Topeak.
I also had Zefal frame pump for a while. I liked that I could make use of that pump peg on my LHT. It was nice being able to mount it without any extra hardware. Then I had to use it once. It was not as pleasant to use the Topeak or the Lezyne. Looked nice on the bike, though.
I started out with a Topeak. Either road morph or mountain, I can't remember. The gauge was kind of iffy. Several pumps and it wouldn't move, then it would make a jump. It would get me in the general ball park, but I certainly couldn't fine-tune the pressure. But for a roadside flat recovery, it was fine. Until it wasn't. One day it just stopped pushing air. There was a leak, somewhere I think. Fortunately I was near a gas station and had a presta/schrader adapter. I probably could have ordered the rebuild kit, but I was a little disappointed in the pump's failure. I didn't use it that much, but it was emergency gear, so when it failed to come through in an emergency, I decided to try Lezyne.
It feels way more solid. I got it without the gauge, High Volume version. I've been moving to fatter and fatter tires, so that made sense. It also helps that with wider tires and lower pressure, I can actually gauge the pressure by feel. I can't put a number on it, but I can tell if it's where I need it to be. I've been meaning to get a separate gauge anyway, but generally there doesn't seem to be a need. I've pumped my tires up from flat, got them to a sufficient pressure, and spent a couple of weeks on them using just that pump. With Topeak it usually felt like a stop-gap measure until I could get to a floor pump. But Topeak was almost always on higher pressure tires, too, so not a fair comparison. Still, I have more confidence in the Lezyne. I like the metal foot peg, as opposed to the plastic, Topeak one that always felt like I was one misstep away from breaking it. I like the screw-on attachment to the valve more than the Topeak clip on. I fortunately haven't had the problem with unscrewing the valve core. Also, I don't think I've used the Lezyne for a schrader valve, but I have used the Topeak. The process of switching the pump over is not great. The first couple of times it was like a puzzle, but then I got used to it. But the Lezyne: just unscrew and flip that little chuck at the end. I really like that method.
My current Lezyne HV is less than 2 years old, so it could be subject to the same failure that my Topeak suffered, since I feel like I had that Topeak pump for 5 years or so, at least. But so far the Lezyne feels like it's much better quality, and I find it better to use than the Topeak.
I also had Zefal frame pump for a while. I liked that I could make use of that pump peg on my LHT. It was nice being able to mount it without any extra hardware. Then I had to use it once. It was not as pleasant to use the Topeak or the Lezyne. Looked nice on the bike, though.
#36
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,112
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3426 Post(s)
Liked 1,441 Times
in
1,122 Posts
Lots of great info on these pumps. I got one of each.
I'm having trouble with the check valve on my road morph. First of all, where the heck is it? I've taken just about the whole darn thing apart and (since I haven't fixed it) I'm not sure I've gotten to the check valve. Is it in the head, the body? Just not sure what I'm looking for. Help a guy out, willya?
I'm having trouble with the check valve on my road morph. First of all, where the heck is it? I've taken just about the whole darn thing apart and (since I haven't fixed it) I'm not sure I've gotten to the check valve. Is it in the head, the body? Just not sure what I'm looking for. Help a guy out, willya?
I think it is under the black bolt that you only see when you put the foot bracket down, when that foot piece is flipped up the bolt is hidden. I pulled that bolt out and there was a spring under it, which makes me suspect that the check valve is there. But I did not disassemble further, so I am only guessing here. Let us know what you find out.
A Shrader chuck will hold the tube check valve open. The Presta valve chuck sometimes will hold that open too.
You need another check valve in the pump to keep the air in the line and the tube when you lift up on the pump to fill the pump cylinder with more air.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Boston Roads
Posts: 978
Bikes: 2012 Canondale Synapse 105, 2017 REI Co-Op ADV 3.1
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 507 Post(s)
Liked 237 Times
in
133 Posts
Good review. I've owned the Road Morph for several years and used it on my commutes with non issues whatsoever (90-100psi). My only complaint is that the gauge is nearly useless. It can be hard to switch from Schrader to Presta but I don't have to do that often.
If you want to use the mounting bracket but not use up the bottle cage mounts, there's a side-mount which is compatible - the Topeak TPD-2C clamp. It holds the pump even tighter than the mount which comes with it.
If you want to use the mounting bracket but not use up the bottle cage mounts, there's a side-mount which is compatible - the Topeak TPD-2C clamp. It holds the pump even tighter than the mount which comes with it.
#38
Senior Member
Lots of great info on these pumps. I got one of each.
I'm having trouble with the check valve on my road morph. First of all, where the heck is it? I've taken just about the whole darn thing apart and (since I haven't fixed it) I'm not sure I've gotten to the check valve. Is it in the head, the body? Just not sure what I'm looking for. Help a guy out, willya?
I'm having trouble with the check valve on my road morph. First of all, where the heck is it? I've taken just about the whole darn thing apart and (since I haven't fixed it) I'm not sure I've gotten to the check valve. Is it in the head, the body? Just not sure what I'm looking for. Help a guy out, willya?
#39
Full Member
Job of a check valve
The check valve allows you to pressurized your pump with every stroke, without having to fight the pressure you developed with your previous stroke. With a check valve, every stroke essentially starts at zero pressure. As you push the piston down, the pressure in the pump goes up. Air goes into the inner tube when the pressure in the pump body equals the pressure already in the inner tube.
You can think of the presta valve of your inner tube as a check valve. It keeps the air in your tire between stokes. The check valve in the pump body further isolates any pressurized air that might be in the space between the bottom of the pump piston and the presta valve, in the hose and pump head and such.
The schrader valve works a little differently. Since the pump heads for this kind of valve uses a pin to open the valve, the Schrader valve does not act as a check valve during inflation. This makes the check valve in the pump even more important.
You can think of the presta valve of your inner tube as a check valve. It keeps the air in your tire between stokes. The check valve in the pump body further isolates any pressurized air that might be in the space between the bottom of the pump piston and the presta valve, in the hose and pump head and such.
The schrader valve works a little differently. Since the pump heads for this kind of valve uses a pin to open the valve, the Schrader valve does not act as a check valve during inflation. This makes the check valve in the pump even more important.
Last edited by joeruge; 10-22-17 at 02:09 PM.
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,112
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3426 Post(s)
Liked 1,441 Times
in
1,122 Posts
The check valve keeps the air in the tire when you are pumping it.
If the check valve failed, when you pushed down on the pump handle, the back pressure would push the pump handle back up. But because the check valve is there, when you lift the pump handle to put more air into the pump, that check valve is closed and holds the high pressure air in the tube.
If the check valve failed, when you pushed down on the pump handle, the back pressure would push the pump handle back up. But because the check valve is there, when you lift the pump handle to put more air into the pump, that check valve is closed and holds the high pressure air in the tube.
#41
Senior Member
The check valve keeps the air in the tire when you are pumping it.
If the check valve failed, when you pushed down on the pump handle, the back pressure would push the pump handle back up. But because the check valve is there, when you lift the pump handle to put more air into the pump, that check valve is closed and holds the high pressure air in the tube.
If the check valve failed, when you pushed down on the pump handle, the back pressure would push the pump handle back up. But because the check valve is there, when you lift the pump handle to put more air into the pump, that check valve is closed and holds the high pressure air in the tube.
thanks.
#43
Senior Member
Lots of great info on these pumps. I got one of each.
I'm having trouble with the check valve on my road morph. First of all, where the heck is it? I've taken just about the whole darn thing apart and (since I haven't fixed it) I'm not sure I've gotten to the check valve. Is it in the head, the body? Just not sure what I'm looking for. Help a guy out, willya?
I'm having trouble with the check valve on my road morph. First of all, where the heck is it? I've taken just about the whole darn thing apart and (since I haven't fixed it) I'm not sure I've gotten to the check valve. Is it in the head, the body? Just not sure what I'm looking for. Help a guy out, willya?
So did you contact and ask Topeak for the info, when you get your answer, post it here so you can help some guys out, willya?
#44
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,500
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3872 Post(s)
Liked 1,920 Times
in
1,369 Posts
My Road Morph G easily pumps my tires to 120 if I want to. Good upper body workout while stopped. Gauge is hard to see, though. I've had one for many years and have done a lot of rain riding and rain flat fixing with it. Wore the O-ring out. I'll have to get a kit. Meanwhile I'm using my other Road Morph G. Two because of the danger of leaving home without one, when I have 2 road bikes which use one. My other road bike has a Zefal frame pump, which also works well but doesn't mount on every frame without a bracket.
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
#45
Ferengii
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 45
Bikes: Co-Motion tandem; Bilenky tandem; Trek Domane SL6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 17 Times
in
13 Posts
We’ve had both the Road Morph G and the Lezyne for several years for our bikes. Our bike touring friends have had both as well. Both of us had trouble with the Lezyne pumps filling tires to 80 psi, whereas no problems with the G. We did have to replace the pin on the G, though, but it has been the more reliable pump.
#46
2-Wheeled Fool
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2,486
Bikes: Surly Ogre, Brompton
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1385 Post(s)
Liked 677 Times
in
457 Posts
Since this thread was started, I sold the Lezyne HP I had and picked up the Silca Tattico, which has worked splendidly. A bit pricey, but noticeable quality and smoothness like all Silca pumps, but in a small package.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DTownDave22
General Cycling Discussion
8
08-17-13 07:37 AM
rider2501
General Cycling Discussion
46
08-30-12 06:02 PM