Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Touring Have a dream to ride a bike across your state, across the country, or around the world? Self-contained or fully supported? Trade ideas, adventures, and more in our bicycle touring forum.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-21-16, 11:49 AM   #51
Tourist in MSN
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, Perfekt 3 Speed of unknown age, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer for exercise. Several others are now gone.
Posts: 3,929
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 482 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili Cheesy View Post
This question is about spindle length.
My Shimano Alivio 9-speed crankset says on the box to use a 113mm spindle, and the mechanic at the LBS said to go by that. It should be correct. The problem (maybe a problem, maybe not) is that my BB tube on the frame (what is the correct term for that? lol) is definitely not centered. the BB tube sticks out 2mm further on the non-drive side from the center of the seat tube than it does on the drive side. That means the spindle will be 1mm off center towards the non-drive side, right? I'm not asking if I'm right about the math. I know I am. I'm asking if the spindle will actually be off center because I assume most BB tubes are centered. Is that right?
...and if so, should I just stick with the 113mm and have my chainrings be 1mm closer to the frame than what it should be or go with a 115mm and put the chainrings 1mm further away from the frame than what's recommended?

Please help! haha
Please don't question the math. Please have a good and surprising mathematical explanation to straighten me out if you do.
By bottom bracket tube on the frame, I assume you mean the bottom bracket shell. Or at least that is what I call it. On spindle length, the goal here is to avoid getting the chainline too far off. If the chainline is off by 1 or 2mm, not a big deal, I would not worry about it. If however you wanted to try to get it spot on, maybe get a bottom bracket for a 73mm shell, then put shims on it so that it is centered. I have had good luck with the people at Velo Orange, you could call them and tell then you have an old Raliegh with Nottingham bottom bracket threads (the person on the phone may or may not know what that means) then talk about the offset and length issues and see what they say. I think they also sell the shims if you wanted to shim it. I am assuming that you can shim that particular bottom bracket, but I admit that I have never seen that bottom bracket so that would be something to ask about.

If it was me, I would quote 30 minutes on the wheels, but I am very slow and careful on spoke adjustments. Most others are faster than me, which might be why I am not working as a bike mechanic.

I have stuff that I pulled off bikes decades ago shoved away in boxes, after a while you figure out what is best to discard and what is worth hanging onto. But I never discard anything until the project is completed.
Tourist in MSN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-16, 12:23 PM   #52
Chili Cheesy
Member
Thread Starter
 
Chili Cheesy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Bikes:
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by phughes View Post
That I cannot answer. You will have to ask your mechanic. Sorry. [/COLOR]
No worries. Thanks again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
By bottom bracket tube on the frame, I assume you mean the bottom bracket shell. Or at least that is what I call it. On spindle length, the goal here is to avoid getting the chainline too far off. If the chainline is off by 1 or 2mm, not a big deal, I would not worry about it. If however you wanted to try to get it spot on, maybe get a bottom bracket for a 73mm shell, then put shims on it so that it is centered. I have had good luck with the people at Velo Orange, you could call them and tell then you have an old Raliegh with Nottingham bottom bracket threads (the person on the phone may or may not know what that means) then talk about the offset and length issues and see what they say. I think they also sell the shims if you wanted to shim it. I am assuming that you can shim that particular bottom bracket, but I admit that I have never seen that bottom bracket so that would be something to ask about.

If it was me, I would quote 30 minutes on the wheels, but I am very slow and careful on spoke adjustments. Most others are faster than me, which might be why I am not working as a bike mechanic.

I have stuff that I pulled off bikes decades ago shoved away in boxes, after a while you figure out what is best to discard and what is worth hanging onto. But I never discard anything until the project is completed.
I like the shim idea, but there is no 73mm version. I'm gonna' order the BB now. I'll see once I get it. I can easily return it, but I think it'll be okay. Thanks for the estimate on the labor time.
Chili Cheesy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-16, 03:42 PM   #53
Tourist in MSN
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, Perfekt 3 Speed of unknown age, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer for exercise. Several others are now gone.
Posts: 3,929
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 482 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili Cheesy View Post
...
I like the shim idea, but there is no 73mm version. I'm gonna' order the BB now. I'll see once I get it. I can easily return it, but I think it'll be okay. Thanks for the estimate on the labor time.
Oops. Sorry. I assumed the bottom bracket was also available for a 73mm bottom bracket shell.
Tourist in MSN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-16, 04:41 PM   #54
Squeezebox
Banned.
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Bikes:
Posts: 2,087
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 760 Post(s)
The most important part of your bicycle is the frame.
Squeezebox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-16, 06:14 PM   #55
mantelclock
Senior Moment
 
mantelclock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Bikes: Velo Orange Campeur, 1976 Motobecane Grand Touring
Posts: 185
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Chili,

Another thing to consider is how you are going to attach the rear rack. If you have a vintage Pletscher, then no problem, otherwise, there are no braze ons on the seat stays of an old Grand Prix for attaching a carrier. The P-clamps that are readily available at hardware stores, suffer from metal fatigue and break even when you don't carry a load. That was an issue with my Motobecane. I finally solved the problem by making a clamp out of aluminum bar stock. It is a simple solution, but a bit too complicated to describe. I will take some pictures in the morning when there is enough light in the garage for the camera to focus.
mantelclock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-16, 10:05 PM   #56
saddlesores
Senior Member
 
saddlesores's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bangkok!
Bikes: inferior steel
Posts: 2,225
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 372 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili Cheesy View Post
I'm gonna' order the BB now. I'll see once I get it.
i'm not sure BB spindles are all centered, you'd have to find an expert to ask.
so going from 113 to 123 doesn't necessarily mean each side is lengthened
by 5mm. could be the drive side goes up 7mm, the other side 3mm longer.

a friend here got a great deal on some "seconds" frames. why seconds?
seat tube was too tight for correct seatpost, had to be reamed/sanded
and/or shimmed. BB threads crankside were not cut as deep as should
be, could not get the BB to seat in fully. had to add a shim but then
chainline a bit too far out. did the calculations, ordered a new BB, but
the decrease on each side was not equal. same with the next one.
third one was like goldilocks.

shouldn't be as much a problem in your case, we were limited as to what
we could do with shims.
saddlesores is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-16, 06:46 AM   #57
grolby
Senior Member
 
grolby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: BOSTON BABY
Bikes:
Posts: 9,614
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili Cheesy View Post
This question is about spindle length.
My Shimano Alivio 9-speed crankset says on the box to use a 113mm spindle, and the mechanic at the LBS said to go by that. It should be correct. The problem (maybe a problem, maybe not) is that my BB tube on the frame (what is the correct term for that? lol) is definitely not centered. the BB tube sticks out 2mm further on the non-drive side from the center of the seat tube than it does on the drive side. That means the spindle will be 1mm off center towards the non-drive side, right? I'm not asking if I'm right about the math. I know I am. I'm asking if the spindle will actually be off center because I assume most BB tubes are centered. Is that right?
...and if so, should I just stick with the 113mm and have my chainrings be 1mm closer to the frame than what it should be or go with a 115mm and put the chainrings 1mm further away from the frame than what's recommended?

Please help! haha
Please don't question the math. Please have a good and surprising mathematical explanation to straighten me out if you do.
Ok. It's typical on older cup-and-cone BBs to have an asymmetric spindle. Why, I don't know, but it doesn't matter. You probably don't need to worry about it, because the modern crank you're buying is intended for use with a modern, symmetric spindle. Assuming you're able to get this new BB installed square and properly, you should have no problem at all.
grolby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-16, 07:53 AM   #58
mantelclock
Senior Moment
 
mantelclock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Bikes: Velo Orange Campeur, 1976 Motobecane Grand Touring
Posts: 185
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantelclock View Post
Chili,

I will take some pictures in the morning when there is enough light in the garage for the camera to focus.
Here are a couple of pics:
mantelclock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 12:13 PM   #59
Chili Cheesy
Member
Thread Starter
 
Chili Cheesy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Bikes:
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantelclock View Post
Chili,

Another thing to consider is how you are going to attach the rear rack. If you have a vintage Pletscher, then no problem, otherwise, there are no braze ons on the seat stays of an old Grand Prix for attaching a carrier. The P-clamps that are readily available at hardware stores, suffer from metal fatigue and break even when you don't carry a load. That was an issue with my Motobecane. I finally solved the problem by making a clamp out of aluminum bar stock. It is a simple solution, but a bit too complicated to describe. I will take some pictures in the morning when there is enough light in the garage for the camera to focus.
P-clamps will be fine. Maybe not the flimsy ones from a hardware store, but what I have in mind is a thick, strong p-clamp meant just for bikes and racks. Plus... all the stress will be on the rack eyelets on the dropouts. I'll use another p-clamp for the fenders if I don't end up with a bolt that's long enough to put both on. Don't worry. Thank you though. Important stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlesores View Post
i'm not sure BB spindles are all centered, you'd have to find an expert to ask.
so going from 113 to 123 doesn't necessarily mean each side is lengthened
by 5mm. could be the drive side goes up 7mm, the other side 3mm longer.

a friend here got a great deal on some "seconds" frames. why seconds?
seat tube was too tight for correct seatpost, had to be reamed/sanded
and/or shimmed. BB threads crankside were not cut as deep as should
be, could not get the BB to seat in fully. had to add a shim but then
chainline a bit too far out. did the calculations, ordered a new BB, but
the decrease on each side was not equal. same with the next one.
third one was like goldilocks.

shouldn't be as much a problem in your case, we were limited as to what
we could do with shims.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grolby View Post
Ok. It's typical on older cup-and-cone BBs to have an asymmetric spindle. Why, I don't know, but it doesn't matter. You probably don't need to worry about it, because the modern crank you're buying is intended for use with a modern, symmetric spindle. Assuming you're able to get this new BB installed square and properly, you should have no problem at all.
Yea... I just have to try what I ordered when it gets here and go from there. What do you mean by "seconds" frames?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mantelclock View Post
Here are a couple of pics:
Your pics are not viewable, my friend.
Chili Cheesy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 01:13 PM   #60
mantelclock
Senior Moment
 
mantelclock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Bikes: Velo Orange Campeur, 1976 Motobecane Grand Touring
Posts: 185
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
[QUOTE=Chili Cheesy;18633534]P-clamps will be fine. Maybe not the flimsy ones from a hardware store, but what I have in mind is a thick, strong p-clamp meant just for bikes and racks.

All of the p-clamps that I've seen on bike parts websites are identical to the ones that I used, and that failed at the seatstays. You only need a drill, a tap, some AL stock and a hack saw to make a clamp that definitely will not fail. I think the grand prix does have eyelets for fenders, but another option is to use clamp on fenders. On my Motobecane, I used these:
Fenders SpeedezHybrid/ Touring

Last edited by mantelclock; 03-24-16 at 01:27 PM.
mantelclock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 01:26 PM   #61
Chili Cheesy
Member
Thread Starter
 
Chili Cheesy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Bikes:
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantelclock View Post
All of the p-clamps that I've seen on bike parts websites are identical to the ones that I used, and that failed. You only need a drill, a tap, some AL stock and a hack saw to make a clamp that definitely will not fail. I think the grand prix does have eyelets for fenders, but another option is to use clamp on fenders. On my Motobecane, I used these:
Fenders SpeedezHybrid/ Touring
I am really not comfortable putting holes in my already skinny seat stays. It would be better in this case to get something that attaches to my seat post or something.
I already have my Velo Orange fenders. My dropouts only each have one eyelet. I'll have to put the rack in it and the fenders with p-clamps unless I can get both onto one bolt from a hardware store.
Chili Cheesy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 01:29 PM   #62
mantelclock
Senior Moment
 
mantelclock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Bikes: Velo Orange Campeur, 1976 Motobecane Grand Touring
Posts: 185
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili Cheesy View Post
I am really not comfortable putting holes in my already skinny seat stays.
I wouldn't dream of it, nor did I suggest that. I solved both the rack and the fender problems without altering anything on the bike, and I avoided the issue of metal fatigue in the clamps. The p-clamps might work okay for fenders, just carry a couple of spares.

Last edited by mantelclock; 03-24-16 at 01:33 PM.
mantelclock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 01:45 PM   #63
Chili Cheesy
Member
Thread Starter
 
Chili Cheesy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Bikes:
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantelclock View Post
I wouldn't dream of it, nor did I suggest that. I solved both the rack and the fender problems without altering anything on the bike, and I avoided the issue of metal fatigue in the clamps. The p-clamps might work okay for fenders, just carry a couple of spares.
Oh, I see what you were saying, haha. Sorry. Gotcha.
Chili Cheesy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 01:53 PM   #64
mantelclock
Senior Moment
 
mantelclock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Bikes: Velo Orange Campeur, 1976 Motobecane Grand Touring
Posts: 185
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili Cheesy View Post
Oh, I see what you were saying, haha. Sorry. Gotcha.
I hope that you were able to see the pics that I posted. I think they show enough to make it pretty clear how to do it. I did consider having a local frame builder put a couple of braze-ons on the seat stays, but while my solution is not elegant, it is totally reversible, and it wouldn't mean having to repaint.
mantelclock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 01:59 PM   #65
Chili Cheesy
Member
Thread Starter
 
Chili Cheesy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Bikes:
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantelclock View Post
I hope that you were able to see the pics that I posted. I think they show enough to make it pretty clear how to do it. I did consider having a local frame builder put a couple of braze-ons on the seat stays, but while my solution is not elegant, it is totally reversible, and it wouldn't mean having to repaint.
The pics don't show up.

What about this?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg LM_1-250-pix.jpg (16.0 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg Alloy-Fork-Adapter-2.jpg (22.0 KB, 44 views)
Chili Cheesy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 02:14 PM   #66
mantelclock
Senior Moment
 
mantelclock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Bikes: Velo Orange Campeur, 1976 Motobecane Grand Touring
Posts: 185
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili Cheesy View Post
The pics don't show up.

What about this?
Those are fine for a front rack, but these would work for a rear (also from Tubus):


Much better than a P-clamp.

Here is my solution:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Stay-Clamp.jpg (27.4 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg Rack Mount2.jpg (62.6 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg Rack Mount.jpg (52.9 KB, 45 views)
mantelclock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 06:06 PM   #67
Doug64
Senior Member
 
Doug64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oregon
Bikes:
Posts: 4,828
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 484 Post(s)
This is an older type Blackburn rack. It works very well with side or center pull brakes.

This type may be hard to find now. That was put on my wife's bike in 1976. However, it would be easy to modify a contemporary rack to fit this configuration.

Doug64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 06:39 PM   #68
shipwreck
Senior Member
 
shipwreck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 1,426
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 121 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug64 View Post
This is an older type Blackburn rack. It works very well with side or center pull brakes.

This type may be hard to find now. That was put on my wife's bike in 1976. However, it would be easy to modify a contemporary rack to fit this configuration.

Nice rims! Ridgida?

When I have put racks on older sport touring bikes I simply drill out some holes in the center of the rack to use a single stay mount like the old blackburns. Made the stay out of various steel stock. If you try to use aluminum stock it tends to fatigue and break at the bends.
shipwreck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-16, 08:24 PM   #69
saddlesores
Senior Member
 
saddlesores's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bangkok!
Bikes: inferior steel
Posts: 2,225
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 372 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili Cheesy View Post
Yea... .... What do you mean by "seconds" frames?
the products coming off the assembly line that don't quite meet
quality standards. you can get "seconds" at the outlet mall....
levi's with an off-center rivet, shirts with loose buttons, that
sort of thing.

well, these were frames that didn't meet the standards...which is
pretty spectacular in china! BB shell threads not cut deep enough
on one side, seat tubes not reamed to proper inner diameter.

but it's pretty rare to find normal human sized frames at a reasonable
price. 23" schwinn mtb frames for $15! buy half a dozen.....if only one
is usable, it's still a bargain, and you'll still have some groovy wall art!
saddlesores is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-16, 09:38 AM   #70
Chili Cheesy
Member
Thread Starter
 
Chili Cheesy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Bikes:
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)


Quote:
Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by veganbikes View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grolby View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by randallr View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Squeezebox View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by indyfabz View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantelclock View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teamdarb View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradtx View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipwreck View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by McBTC View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbg View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by imi View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBHoren View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Feet View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlesores View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by phughes View Post
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug64 View Post
.

Last edited by Chili Cheesy; 05-06-16 at 09:41 AM.
Chili Cheesy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-16, 09:44 AM   #71
Teamdarb
Senior Member
 
Teamdarb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Washington DC
Bikes: 94' Barracuda A2M, 83 Ross 294 signature, 93 MB3, '87 BS 300 mixte, '86 420, '12 Trek 520, 92 720 and more
Posts: 69
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I like the new look.
Teamdarb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-16, 09:58 AM   #72
jefnvk
Senior Member
 
jefnvk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Metro Detroit
Bikes: Novara Mazama
Posts: 5,174
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1960 Post(s)
Beautiful! I love reusing old stuff, over just going out and buying new. I'd have done my upcoming trip on my old Schwinn Le Tour, if I could have shed enough weight off the thing to feel comfortable staying under the 50# airline weight limit when boxed and packed.

Forgive me if I missed this earlier in the thread, who makes those fenders?
jefnvk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-16, 10:00 AM   #73
Happy Feet
Senior Member
 
Happy Feet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Bikes:
Posts: 1,599
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 450 Post(s)
I see what you did there

Nice bike! I have a soft spot for C&V bikes; they just seem stylishly classy. Did you keep the original pedals? I get why you probably wanted wider platforms but old school with metal toe clips and leather straps... Just sayin
Happy Feet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-16, 10:02 AM   #74
jefnvk
Senior Member
 
jefnvk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Metro Detroit
Bikes: Novara Mazama
Posts: 5,174
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1960 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipwreck View Post
Nice rims! Ridgida?

When I have put racks on older sport touring bikes I simply drill out some holes in the center of the rack to use a single stay mount like the old blackburns. Made the stay out of various steel stock. If you try to use aluminum stock it tends to fatigue and break at the bends.
What size steel do you use, and do you feel it holds rigid enough? I'm trying to attach some racks (Axiom Journey) to bikes without the seat stay screws right now, I'm wondering if that is a better option than the P Clips I found at Home Depot.
jefnvk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-16, 10:06 AM   #75
bradtx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
Posts: 7,476
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 277 Post(s)
Chili Cheesy, Very nice job, congrats!

Brad
bradtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:44 AM.


 
  • Ask a Question
    get answers from real people!
Click to start entering your question.
I HAVE A QUESTION