Touring Bike Weights
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Touring Bike Weights
I've recently built a bamboo touring style bicycle and am wondering if I'm in line with where I should be with the unloaded weight. Currently (as pictured) it weighs about 31 lbs. unloaded (14 kg), and from what I've read this seems to be about right but personally it seems to be quite heavy.
Where do your touring bikes weigh in at and what have you done to reduce the weight, or am I making a mountain out of a molehill?
img_1183.jpg
Thanks!
Where do your touring bikes weigh in at and what have you done to reduce the weight, or am I making a mountain out of a molehill?
img_1183.jpg
Thanks!
#2
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Is that a rear caliper only braking bike? I think I see 4 cables, but I dont see a front caliper.
Anyways, I would consider that heavy for a bike without racks or even bottle cages.
At the same time, oh well- its a few # more than many other bikes.
Typically, road touring bikes are 22-32# depending on size, frame material, spec quality, and rack materials. Its a massive range.
Anyways, I would consider that heavy for a bike without racks or even bottle cages.
At the same time, oh well- its a few # more than many other bikes.
Typically, road touring bikes are 22-32# depending on size, frame material, spec quality, and rack materials. Its a massive range.
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The frame, before adding components, was about 4 lbs (1.8 kg), is this where the "heaviness" of this setup is coming from or would it be the components?
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#7
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Perfect thank you, I don't know why I wasn't able to find these when I was looking for related posts?
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#9
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One thing I've learned is that a little extra weight doesn't hurt when distance cycling or touring. We all want our equipment to be as light as practical, but I learned that my touring bike worked just as well as my distance roadie on long distance rides in spite of weighing 6.5 lb. more.
Brad
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Sweet bike, though, comes in right around the weight of my Miyata.
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I have even more admiration. My frame-only weight for my 23" Cannondale touring bike(s) is right around 4 lb. or perhaps just a bit lighter. I didn't write it down, but maybe it's in an old post.(?) Your built bike is ~3.5 lb. heavier than mine and a rack may bump that up 1-2 lb.
One thing I've learned is that a little extra weight doesn't hurt when distance cycling or touring. We all want our equipment to be as light as practical, but I learned that my touring bike worked just as well as my distance roadie on long distance rides in spite of weighing 6.5 lb. more.
Thanks for the info.
#12
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More $$$ you are willing to spend along the way, the less you have to carry.
On The Pacific Coast , summer cycle touring season sees all sorts of bikes..
some are road bikes , towing a bike trailer.
....
On The Pacific Coast , summer cycle touring season sees all sorts of bikes..
some are road bikes , towing a bike trailer.
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-31-17 at 12:04 PM.
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Rims: A god rim won't dent or break with a hard knock (tree limb, pothole, etc.) You can probably get a lighter rim; do you want to?
Saddle: Not clear what saddle you're riding from the picture, but you can save a pound on a plastic saddle over a Brooks leather saddle. OTOH, there's a reason 1/2 - 2/3 touring cyclists ride Brooks IME, and it's butt comfort. How much do you want to lighten the load?
Seatpost: Unless you've got an expensive seatpost, you can probably buy a lighter one. It might resist bending or breaking as well as the cheaper model, or at least well enough to get you through your tour safely.
Derailers: A good place to save a few ounces, but it's going to cost you! Cassette: ditto.
Overall, my bikes come in right around 32 pounds. When I lose a third of my body weight, then I'll think about getting a bike that weighs 1/3 less, too.
#17
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With that said…meh…oh well. My touring bike is no lightweight. It isnt a land whale, but itll never be mistaken for a waifish model.
Its really cool that you built a bike- that, in my mind, far outweighs the weight being a few # more than what I would consider typical.
Looking around, this is apparently more of a 1st/2nd crack at a product to sell? Where does the rear rack attach? I see 2 mount points at the dropouts, but nothing up on the seatstays. Also, no ability to traditionally mount a front rack? That could really limit usability.
https://www.citrocycle.com/
#18
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[QUOTE=citrocycle;19480606]Is your Cannondale aluminum?
Yes.
Brad
Yes.
Brad
#19
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Rims: A god rim won't dent or break with a hard knock (tree limb, pothole, etc.) You can probably get a lighter rim; do you want to?
Saddle: Not clear what saddle you're riding from the picture, but you can save a pound on a plastic saddle over a Brooks leather saddle. OTOH, there's a reason 1/2 - 2/3 touring cyclists ride Brooks IME, and it's butt comfort. How much do you want to lighten the load?
Seatpost: Unless you've got an expensive seatpost, you can probably buy a lighter one. It might resist bending or breaking as well as the cheaper model, or at least well enough to get you through your tour safely.
Derailers: A good place to save a few ounces, but it's going to cost you! Cassette: ditto.
Overall, my bikes come in right around 32 pounds. When I lose a third of my body weight, then I'll think about getting a bike that weighs 1/3 less, too.
Saddle: Not clear what saddle you're riding from the picture, but you can save a pound on a plastic saddle over a Brooks leather saddle. OTOH, there's a reason 1/2 - 2/3 touring cyclists ride Brooks IME, and it's butt comfort. How much do you want to lighten the load?
Seatpost: Unless you've got an expensive seatpost, you can probably buy a lighter one. It might resist bending or breaking as well as the cheaper model, or at least well enough to get you through your tour safely.
Derailers: A good place to save a few ounces, but it's going to cost you! Cassette: ditto.
Overall, my bikes come in right around 32 pounds. When I lose a third of my body weight, then I'll think about getting a bike that weighs 1/3 less, too.
Thanks for the overview, I'm personally fine with the weight, but have talked to people who were interested in a bike like it but also were interested in having a lighter bike and I was wondering where I could shave weight off at. I'll just pass along the cost if they want lighter!
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Looking around, this is apparently more of a 1st/2nd crack at a product to sell? Where does the rear rack attach? I see 2 mount points at the dropouts, but nothing up on the seat stays. Also, no ability to traditionally mount a front rack? That could really limit usability.
I really appreciate your input, its great having a fresh pair of eyes to point out the things that I've overlooked.
#21
Pretty cool bike! But it does seem on heavy side, considering bamboo is not a heavy building material. As you've point out those steel connectors seem to be rather large and therefore heavy. But IMO there's nothing wrong with an overbuilt touring-bike. By way of reference, my overbuilt all-steel touring-bicycle with a sturdy wheelset comes in at about 30 pounds. Kitted out with racks, cages, fenders, and 2-inch touring tires it weighs in at 33 pounds.
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I imagine that the overall size plays into it also, this is a "large" frame for someone 6'+.
I'll have to reference this one against the "small" frame I'm currently building!
Thanks for the input.
#23
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this weight is pretty close to what my touring bikes have been.
oh, and I have always found the search function on this site to be extraordinarily frustrating, dont even try using it anymore.
oh, and I have always found the search function on this site to be extraordinarily frustrating, dont even try using it anymore.
#24
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This bike is 27.5 lbs with out the Tubus rear rack but with all the other accessories including the Arkel handle bar bag mounts. I read, today in Bike Rag, of the Surley Disk trucker at 34 lbs with no accessories. Andy
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My DT was 34 with cages, tubus racks and probably my Road Morph pump as well as a few minor upgrades that weren't a whole lot lighter. My Co-Motion is 28 pounds without the pump but slightly heavier cages.