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Old 03-19-17, 10:14 AM   #26
masterchief
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Originally Posted by linus View Post
Did you set the Pasela tubeless?
Nope, folding Paselas with a pretty standard Continental butyl tube intended for 32c-47c tires.

I weighed the wheels, if anyones interrested:

Front wheel (without qr): 955g
Rear wheel (without qr): 1190g
Schwalbe rim tape: 32g
Continental butyl tube (I think it's a 42mm presta valve): 169g
Panaracer Pasela 700x38c (420g advertised on Panaracer website): 414g front, 407g rear

Total weight: 3368g
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Old 03-19-17, 10:29 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by masterchief View Post
Tire update: the Pasela 38c has now grown from 34,5 to 36mm width since friday evening.



To me it does simplify things, since with the 38t big ring, it will allow me to stay in that ring longer than I am able to stay in the big ring on my current triple before i need to shift to the middle ring, which means a shift between the chainrings has i been eliminated in more cases than with the triple. This is what i mean by simplifying things.

First, as said previously in this thread, I dont mind coasting at 25 mph, it is quite a lot faster than my commuting cruise speed, and I would rather have wider range at the lower end. Should I end up finding it frustrating as you and others are warning me about, I can easily swap the ring for a bigger one.
What you do is up to you, of course. But be aware that swapping out rings can get expensive and time consuming. As an experiment, why not try not shifting on your triple now to see how you like it. Or even remove the outer ring and see how that works for you. It may not be the same but at least you get an idea of how it works before you sink money into the system.

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Secondly, thanks for the link to that gear calculator! Thats a pretty handy tool for comparing gear ranges. Up untill now I've been using Sheldon Browns calculator which is not as good for comparing ranges.
I find it to be about the best calculator I've ever run across. I particularly like the ability to compare the different gearing patterns.

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Looking at that comparison, I do see what you're on about and it has got me thinking about getting a 26 or even 28t inner ring for commuting, and then keeping the 24t for when I decide to load the racks up. I do not fully agree with you on the drastic increase in cadence when shifting to the small ring, as I always combine it with one or two shifts to a smaller sprocket, to even out the transition between the chainrings.

This whole project is a result of what I like and dislike about my current commuter. Some of the parts are chosen from actual experience, and some are based on what I think will give the result I'm looking for, so the final result of this build, will not necessarily be the final state of the bike - most likely not.
Again, it's up to you but that sounds like a whole lot of constant fiddling. It's not really "simplifying" your life. I like to fiddle with bikes but I don't go out of my way to make bikes more fiddly. Making double shifts, to me, is a bit like hunting and pecking when you could have smoother easier transitions. More thought going into planning and lay out of the gearing means less thought while you are riding. And, if you are anything like me, a long day of dragging gear up hills results in a fairly large decrease in intelligence

You said that you want a wider range on the low end. Your proposed gearing doesn't really lower your low end as much as it could be lowered with little effort. If, for example, you used a 22 inner, you can lower the gearing nicely over the 24. Since you are using a 10 speed, you can run an 11-36 which lowers the gearing even more. Here's the comparison to the 11-32 you suggested above. Three gear inches may not seem like much but it is fairly significant.
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Old 03-19-17, 11:33 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by masterchief View Post
I've been comparing gear inch ratios of my current commuter triple setup with this build, and it looks like the 38-24t will cover my needs, although I did think of it as vey small to begin with. I will have to see, and if its too low a 40 or 42t is available online. 25 mph is plenty for my commuting, I don't mind coasting at those speeds. I actually think a lot of peoples bikes a way over geared for their purpose. How often do you find your self commuting/touring at 25 mph? For me thats not very often, so I would rather have a wide range for the cruising and climbing speeds.

.
There is something you are not thinking about.
Have you ever toured on completely flat land for an entire day?
Sitting in the saddle the entire time is painful. Sometimes you want to stand on the pedals just to change your body position and relieve the pressure on your butt.
This is not going to be possible with a 38 tooth big chain ring. You will spin out.
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Old 03-19-17, 08:01 PM   #29
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Off topic, sorry. Masterchief what? I'm x Navy DT 2 which is why I ask.
Good luck with the build. I built my 520 3 years ago. More for touring than commuting. Great bike though
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Old 03-22-17, 01:48 PM   #30
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Project update: Frame arrived! There is so many small details I haven't been able to tell from the online pictures, that really gives the impression of a top quality product with no shortcuts made.

- Paint finish is very nice, the metallic green is beautiful, and a little darker than I thought it would be (could be the lighting).


- Theres a pump peg on the back of the headtube.


- A funky left rear drop out with threaded eyelets and two hex shaped slots on the inside. I have never seen anything like it before, but my guess would be it's intended for a kickstand of some sort. Would be very interrested in hearing from anyone who knows its purpose.



- Threaded eyelets at seat- and chainstay bridges for fender mounting (good clearance for the 38c Paselas, measuring an actualy 35mm).







- It came with a headset, but I think I might have read somewhere that it's a proprietary sort of installation, not sure at all though.

Got a few more, but image limit for post reached.

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Off topic, sorry. Masterchief what? I'm x Navy DT 2 which is why I ask.
Good luck with the build. I built my 520 3 years ago. More for touring than commuting. Great bike though
I'm sorry to disappoint you, but it's from a video game character from when I was younger. I didn't know it was a navy rank too.
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Old 03-22-17, 01:58 PM   #31
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Hmm, images are not showing for some reason.

A few more details from the frame:
- Chain hanger on the inside of right seat stay.
- Fork crown is drilled through AND it has a smaller (m5?) threaded hole just beneath on the back side.
- It looks like the low rider mounting points go all the way through the fork blades, although only reinforced on the outside.
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Old 03-22-17, 02:01 PM   #32
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More pictures!
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Old 03-23-17, 08:35 PM   #33
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The bike has evolved over the decades, looks good. I'm not sure if Paselas have changed from when I rode a lot but I developed a preference for the T-servs over the Paselas because the black walls seemed to last longer. Good riding tires.
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Old 03-23-17, 10:03 PM   #34
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I'm sorry to disappoint you, but it's from a video game character from when I was younger. I didn't know it was a navy rank too.
Speaking of which, whenever I read your user name, it makes me think that your Magikarp avatar is Soffish for a moment.
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Old 03-24-17, 12:29 AM   #35
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Well done. Looks great.
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Old 03-29-17, 09:35 AM   #36
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Done!
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Old 03-29-17, 10:23 AM   #37
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masterchief, Certainly the most attractive 520 I've seen. Great job! How do you like the double so far?

Brad
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Old 03-29-17, 10:56 AM   #38
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Nice work.

FYI, your assumption is correct regarding the two holes in front of the non-drive-side dropout. They're for a bolt-on kickstand.
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Old 03-29-17, 11:11 AM   #39
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I Like the rear mounted Kickstand, having a hex socket for the nut so as to let you use Nylock nuts is a good design.
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Old 03-29-17, 12:55 PM   #40
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That came out beautifully. I'm building up a similarly equipped travel bike over the next few weeks (SRAM 2x10 mtb drivetrain, v-brakes, 38 Paselas). But this looks way more classic than it will.
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Old 03-29-17, 11:22 PM   #41
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Thanks all, I think it turned out pretty good, it's certainly a very nice ride.

I went with the cheap FSA Vero drop bars, since I thought it looked like it could give a nice flat transition to the hoods, which it somewhat does. The thing is though, after riding a Zipp bar with flat tops on my road bike for a year, the standard round tops on the FSA feels so thin, and it's not very comfortable, so I might replace them along with the cheap Deda tape, for some quality stuff. I have thought about doing a double wrap instead, but I have no experience with that. Would I achieve same result by doing so?

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masterchief, Certainly the most attractive 520 I've seen. Great job! How do you like the double so far?

Brad
The double is fine so far, I'm glad I went with the 38t "big" ring, it's very well balanced for my commuting route. As Cyccommute said somewhere in this thread, the gap between the rings is quite large, and with 24t on the small, it's really only for climbing. I bought a 28t ring to try out, and I think it could be a nice replacement. I tried removing the 24t but the bolts were extremely tight (It's a brand new crankset!?) so I gave up. I cut myself on a chainring pretty badly in the hand last summer when the hex wrench slipped in a tight bolt, so I'm careful not to do that again.

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Nice work.

FYI, your assumption is correct regarding the two holes in front of the non-drive-side dropout. They're for a bolt-on kickstand.
Thanks for that, maybe I should look into taking advantage of this.

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That came out beautifully. I'm building up a similarly equipped travel bike over the next few weeks (SRAM 2x10 mtb drivetrain, v-brakes, 38 Paselas). But this looks way more classic than it will.
Good luck! My Paselas are 38c too, but measure 35mm wide. I think they're smooth and quite fast on the pavement, but I haven't taken them off the black top yet.
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Old 03-30-17, 07:24 AM   #42
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So many nice details on that frame and a classic color. I wear gloves when messing with cranks and chainrings. I feel your pain.
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Old 03-30-17, 07:54 AM   #43
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masterchief, If you don't already haveone, buy a chain ring tool...sooo much better than using a screw driver! https://www.competitivecyclist.com/p...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

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Old 03-30-17, 10:39 AM   #44
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So many nice details on that frame and a classic color. I wear gloves when messing with cranks and chainrings. I feel your pain.
Yeah I was pleasantly surprised when I got it too, it's really a quality frame. Before I got it, I thought It didn't look as sturdy as the LHT. Now, I have never seen an LHT in person, but this is definitely a tough frame, no doubt about that, and I can see why people choose it for loaded touring.

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masterchief, If you don't already haveone, buy a chain ring tool...sooo much better than using a screw driver! https://www.competitivecyclist.com/p...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

Brad
Thanks, I do have one of those, but it's actually not the nuts turning that's the issue. The bolt screws directly into the crankarm, and it's just hella tight! I would have thought this problem was reserved for seized bolts from the last century, but apparently not.
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