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Old 03-10-17, 04:23 PM   #1
Standalone 
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Vintage MTB frame up build tips? Gravel/road

The mud on the C and O was a bit too much for my Raleigh Alyeska road tourer last year. I have this frame on the way soon. I like drops, but don't want to shell out a lot of money to make a road setup work with a mountain bike fd (been there, tried that with my 26" folder. Fast and light is the overall goal. Probably fenders if I can fit them. Road/trail friendly tires. Seat bag and frame bag. Other ideas?

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Old 03-10-17, 04:27 PM   #2
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Some other pics from the seller.
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Old 03-10-17, 05:56 PM   #3
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Bar end shifters are your friend. They will shift an MTB FD without issue.
Drop bars and mtb componets are then happy together.
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Old 03-10-17, 06:18 PM   #4
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IDK how the fit will be and I guess you don't either I had Mustache bars and road levers and bar end shifters on my old Stumpie,

steep up angled stem , but still too much weight on my hands ,, those long top tubes make drop bar builds a problem,

Consider Trekking Bars, MTB V brakes and thumb shifters.. and tall short extension stems , open face threadless conversions
make boxing the bike to get to places to tour , easier.



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Old 03-10-17, 07:01 PM   #5
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... I like drops, but don't want to shell out a lot of money to make a road setup work with a mountain bike fd (been there, tried that with my 26" folder. Fast and light is the overall goal. ...
The rando bike I built up a year ago, I use a brifter for rear derailleur but I use a friction downtube shifter for the front derailleur. But it looks like you do not have the downtube bosses to install a downtube shifter. The old style clamp-on downtube shifters might work if your downtube is a small enough diameter. You would have to measure it to see how it compares to the vintage frames that used clamp-on shifers if you wanted to pursue that option.
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Old 03-10-17, 07:55 PM   #6
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The issue is finding shifters that work with older 7x3 speed mtb gearing.

I recently did a dropbar conversion using a $17 index/friction shimano stem shifter that fits on the older narrow stems.

Or, you can use some 8 speed bar end shifters that work with 7 speeds but they can be a bit pricey new.

Or, You can just use thumb shifters on the flats of the dropbars in which case there are many inexpensive choices.

If you don't go with dropbars then trekking bars take the same shifter/brake combos as older mtbs.
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Old 03-11-17, 05:13 AM   #7
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Good thoughts. I'm thinking a $15 threaded to thread-less stem converter may be a good move. I am six four with long arms and legs -- the long tt may not be an obstacle to a drop bar build.

One thing about the frame is the shape of the chain stays at the bb-- I wonder if a compact road double might actually fit without rubbing the stays? Don't really know how to measure that before simply installing.
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Old 03-11-17, 08:04 AM   #8
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Good thoughts. I'm thinking a $15 threaded to thread-less stem converter may be a good move. I am six four with long arms and legs -- the long tt may not be an obstacle to a drop bar build.

One thing about the frame is the shape of the chain stays at the bb-- I wonder if a compact road double might actually fit without rubbing the stays? Don't really know how to measure that before simply installing.
Nothing wrong with a threadless converter, I put one of those on an old road bike. I wanted to replace the bars and stem because the stem reach was too long and the bars were too narrow. And when I started looking at options I decided there was no reason to retain the old quill style. The photo shows my 1961 vintage Italian bike (Columbus Tubing) with the threadless stem. While I was at it, I upgraded to modern brake levers with under-tape cable routing and added interrupter levers.
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Old 03-11-17, 08:33 AM   #9
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If you go drop bars, then bar end shifters or some cheap-o friction thumbies (<$15 for a pair with cables) mounted to the tops of your drops are the easiest options.

If you don't go drops there are other options with multiple hand positions that fit mtb gear equipment -- most notably the Jones Hbar (and its copies.) You can pick up a very nice 2x mtb group these days for a reasonable amount: either from Ribble/CRC or take off on a site like pinkbike (since everyone wants to go 1x).

Not sure if they're still making it, but for getting bars up nice and high, Kalloy used to make a dirt drop stem that was <$20 and drilled to accept a canti brake.

I built up a similar bike for my pops to ride or a 4 day tour of Wisconsin gravel a few years back.

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Old 03-12-17, 12:25 AM   #10
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Nothing wrong with a threadless converter, I put one of those on an old road bike.
Couldn't find a quill stem with the reach I wanted, so I bought a set for my old MTB conversion, adapter was like $9, and then the cost of whatever stem you want. Yet to put the bike back together, but I wouldn't dissuade anyone from doing so.
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Old 03-12-17, 06:38 AM   #11
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I'm doing this very thing right now. I have an old Gary Fisher Tassajara on the stand right now. Today it gets new tires, fenders, cables, seat, wheel true, and a good cleaning. I've made a deal with a guy to trade it for his Trek 29er. He needs a solid commuter.
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Old 03-12-17, 07:03 AM   #12
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Theres a very long and very awesome thread about vintage MTB drop bar conversions that might be interresting for you.

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...nversions.html

You should be aware of rear drop out spacing. Afaik the mtb standard has gone from 126 to 130 to 135, so not all hubs may fit.

Good luck with the build, old MTBs are fun projects!
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Old 03-16-17, 09:32 AM   #13
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Excellent advice all. One of my favorite builds (and my son's favorite) was a flat bar Trek 600 built from the bike parts bin and a few pay it forward parts. This one is going in the other direction!

I love how new tech makes things like 2x10 MTB setups cheap! Will look into it.
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Old 03-16-17, 02:43 PM   #14
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Sounds like you have some good options for drivetrain.

Fenders: SKS P65's are good. The Longboard version is a tiny bit longer and includes mud flaps.

Tires: Schwalbe Thunder Burt are my favorites. They're competent on dry off-road surfaces, and still very fast on the road. They're still available in 26" (for now).

Frame bag: whatever brand, but the tall head tube on pre-suspension MTBs can make modern frame bags fit funny.

Here's my drop bar build of an '88 Schwinn KOM:


And this pic shows the frame bag I got:

It was custom made for this frame by Ruthworks in San Francisco. A friend has the same frame in the same size (his is an '87 Paramountain) and ordered the bag to fit. He sold the frame, and I bought the bag off him. Score!
The only thing I don't like about it is that the front strap covers the head badge.

I recently changed this frame back to upright bars, using Jones Loop bars (my fave). This bike was a lot of fun for gravel bombing, but it got replaced in that duty by a Foundry Auger. So now it's back to touring and commuting duty, for which the Jones bars work great.
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