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Old 03-19-17, 03:16 PM   #26
Deaner
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Originally Posted by tombc View Post
After the strap it seems the spring stabilizer is the next most simple, time tested, classic and easy to implement solution. You could remove the plastic sheath.
Ive given it consideration, and may well braze another bottle boss to avoid the clamp. I am thinking that to improve it I ought to run a braided steel cable through the inside of the spring, thereby giving me a hard stop as well as the tension provided by the spring. THough a project such as this will have to wait until I am ready for a new paint job...
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Old 03-19-17, 03:30 PM   #27
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Alan (# 23) is there, in DC.* IDK Where You Are..

*one wall is black granite with the names of thousands of people who did not get to be my age, now..
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Old 03-19-17, 03:36 PM   #28
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I have a One Off Bike with a unique fork crown that bumps against a Nylon Block on the Down Tube, when the wheel swings,

that is also my Front Derailleur cable stop.

Its a different one than the Koga .
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Old 03-19-17, 04:23 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Doug64 View Post
I suspect front wheel flop is more of a problem when using a kick stand.
I suspect that you are correct, sir!
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Old 03-19-17, 08:04 PM   #30
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Alan (# 23) is there, in DC.* IDK Where You Are..

*one wall is black granite with the names of thousands of people who did not get to be my age, now..
Not that wall, of course.
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Old 03-20-17, 12:12 PM   #31
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I need help finding a solution to keep my handlebars from rotating and hitting my top tube...
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/frames/t...-inch/?geoc=US

Thorn's "steering lock" should work provided:
a. you have >10mm of headset spacer on a 1 1/8" fork steerer tube to permit striker installation, and
b. your headtube has >10mm of extension above toptube junction and an OD of ~37mm to permit limiter installation. You need striker and limiter parts for a complete "steering lock". Make sure all fasteners are included since they are probably not a stock item at the Local Hardware Store.

Headtubes with 37mm OD are typical for steel frames designed to accommodate forks with 28.6mm (1.125") steerers. For example, the Thorn "steering lock" will fit a Surly LHT/DT (28.6mm steerer/30-40mm HT extension/37.3mm HT OD).

Obviously a velcro strap, mini bungee or paracord through the wheel and over the downtube will also immobilize the fork/wheel/rack/luggage, saving ~60g and $60. I prefer the simple/cheap solution in this case.
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Old 03-20-17, 12:27 PM   #32
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NM this must be what you're referring to on the REI bikes...


Doesn't FSA make one called the headblock???

https://ebike.hu/products/steering/h...-hbs-1-1-8-90/


Last edited by edthesped; 03-20-17 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 03-20-17, 12:48 PM   #33
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NM this must be what you're referring to on the REI bikes...


Doesn't FSA make one called the headblock???

https://ebike.hu/products/steering/h...-hbs-1-1-8-90/

The link you posted is what rei specs on some f their frame, it is unfortunately not available from fsa, they just put their name on it. In design it seems very similar to the Acros so I wonder if there is some weird licensing restrictions going on. The link you posted is the only other place on the web I have found mention of the headblock. I am really hoping that it will pop up somewhere else though.
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Old 03-20-17, 12:51 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by seeker333 View Post
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/frames/t...-inch/?geoc=US

Thorn's "steering lock" should work provided:
a. you have >10mm of headset spacer on a 1 1/8" fork steerer tube to permit striker installation, and
b. your headtube has >10mm of extension above toptube junction and an OD of ~37mm to permit limiter installation. You need striker and limiter parts for a complete "steering lock". Make sure all fasteners are included since they are probably not a stock item at the Local Hardware Store.

Headtubes with 37mm OD are typical for steel frames designed to accommodate forks with 28.6mm (1.125") steerers. For example, the Thorn "steering lock" will fit a Surly LHT/DT (28.6mm steerer/30-40mm HT extension/37.3mm HT OD).

Obviously a velcro strap, mini bungee or paracord through the wheel and over the downtube will also immobilize the fork/wheel/rack/luggage, saving ~60g and $60. I prefer the simple/cheap solution in this case.
Thank you, this is exactly the sort of thing I was looking for. I don't mind 60 grams so I will probably be getting this unless something pops up.
Do you have any personal experience with this?
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Old 03-20-17, 01:16 PM   #35
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On my Bike With a front Porteur rack on the down tube, I have a Strap with a Side Release Buckle. Its quick to use..
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Old 03-20-17, 01:25 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by NoControl View Post
My wife carries a hair scrunchie on her bike. When she parks, she doubles it up and slips it over her brake lever, engaging the brake. The bike does not move, and does not fall. Problem solved. I do the same thing now, except I use a fat rubber band. I saw what the wife was doing, and I said to her, "Honey, get me a rubber band, and make it snappy!"
Cut a section of 26" inner tube, works well for brake levers.
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Old 03-20-17, 01:35 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Deaner View Post
The link you posted is what rei specs on some f their frame, it is unfortunately not available from fsa, they just put their name on it. In design it seems very similar to the Acros so I wonder if there is some weird licensing restrictions going on. The link you posted is the only other place on the web I have found mention of the headblock. I am really hoping that it will pop up somewhere else though.
Yeah, I figured that out when I tried to find one for sale... Sorry.
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Old 04-02-17, 12:29 AM   #38
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.

FWIW, I tried the Batavus one, and ended up removing it a few months later as it was ineffective. Any real load on the front rack overpowered it and the front wheel flopped anyway. It appeared to be designed so that you could overpower the lock so that you didn't cycle away from a halt with your handlebars locked and unable to maneuver. Unfortunately, this overzealous safety measure made the whole thing basically useless.

If for some reason someone still wanted to try that one, even with the above knowledge, you should also know it's just half a headset, the upper half. If your old headset is toast, you'd still need to source a lower.

I realize this doesn't address the OP's problem, but since that product came up in this thread I felt like I should share my experience with it, particularly when I posted about it last year before I got it, no one had ever used one here before.
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Old 04-02-17, 04:55 PM   #39
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I install a piece of self adhesive Velcro tape on the down tube, Makes it a one handed operation.
The pictures show how it works, and stores.

-Snuts-
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Old 04-02-17, 09:20 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Medic Zero View Post
.

FWIW, I tried the Batavus one, and ended up removing it a few months later as it was ineffective. Any real load on the front rack overpowered it and the front wheel flopped anyway. It appeared to be designed so that you could overpower the lock so that you didn't cycle away from a halt with your handlebars locked and unable to maneuver. Unfortunately, this overzealous safety measure made the whole thing basically useless.

If for some reason someone still wanted to try that one, even with the above knowledge, you should also know it's just half a headset, the upper half. If your old headset is toast, you'd still need to source a lower.

I realize this doesn't address the OP's problem, but since that product came up in this thread I felt like I should share my experience with it, particularly when I posted about it last year before I got it, no one had ever used one here before.
Cool. Thanks for the insight.
Did you get a 1" threaded headset from Batavus, or is it a 1 1/8" one? Are you still using the headset?
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Old 04-02-17, 09:20 PM   #41
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I install a piece of self adhesive Velcro tape on the down tube, Makes it a one handed operation.
The pictures show how it works, and stores.

-Snuts-
That looks like a pretty good solution, thanks.
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Old 04-04-17, 09:38 PM   #42
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Cool. Thanks for the insight.
Did you get a 1" threaded headset from Batavus, or is it a 1 1/8" one? Are you still using the headset?
1" threaded. Don't recall where I sourced it from, might have been ebay. I didn't realize it was a Batavus branded product until this thread. IIRC, it's actually a Shimano product, something like "HPX-10".

I'm not still using it, since it wasn't effective at what it was supposed to do, wasn't a very smooth headset, and was ugly and clunky, I swapped it out for a regular headset. A ~$30 headset was far smoother than the Batavus/Shimano locking one.
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