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Old 07-27-17, 12:56 PM   #1
dtmoss
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Jamis Aurora used for $200 too cheap to be real?

Topic. Not sure what year it is but appears to be in good shape. On CL. Scam?

"Hey there I'm selling my Jamis in excellent condition. It's all tuned up and ready to ride. Shimano groupset and brifters with ritchey stem, drop bars, and seat post. Cinelli saddle. Shimano r500 wheelset spins smooth and true. Cantilever brakeset squeezes nice and tight and responsive. Triple chainring on the crankset for extreme uphill climbs. Tubes and tires are in great condition and hold high air pressure."

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Old 07-27-17, 01:39 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by dtmoss View Post
Topic. Not sure what year it is but appears to be in good shape. On CL. Scam?

"Hey there I'm selling my Jamis in excellent condition. It's all tuned up and ready to ride. Shimano groupset and brifters with ritchey stem, drop bars, and seat post. Cinelli saddle. Shimano r500 wheelset spins smooth and true. Cantilever brakeset squeezes nice and tight and responsive. Triple chainring on the crankset for extreme uphill climbs. Tubes and tires are in great condition and hold high air pressure."
Cant say if its a scam or not without a link to at least look at it. Even then its hard to tell. I bought a 05 Aurora last year for 125. The original tires and tubes still on it. Wear and tear from being carelessly stored. Was a great bike, a truck turned in front of me and it got the fork and frame bent when I hit the ditch. Saved all the parts for a different frame.

I always meet a seller in a parking lot at a large business. If they seem sketchy, and I think there is any chance the bike is stolen I walk away. Did that once, and the price kept going down as I got into my truck.
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Old 07-27-17, 01:40 PM   #3
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Really hard to tell from that description. Just as likely what they consider to be an old bike sitting in their garage that they want gone and would be more than happy to take $200 for.

Worst case, contact them, just don't wire them money. Can't get scammed if you hand them the money and they hand you the bike. If you want to post a link but don't have enough posts, either let us know your CL region, or obfuscate it so the site doesn't recognize as a link, i.e.: www (dot) craigslist (dot) com / abc123.htm

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Old 07-27-17, 02:01 PM   #4
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Assume OP was referring to this
Says it was posted 25 days ago.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/la...202505196.html

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Old 07-27-17, 02:11 PM   #5
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https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/sear....aspx?id=65701
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/sear....aspx?id=93135
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/sear....aspx?id=16479

The model was made for at least two decades. So, if you're looking at a 2016 or 2017 model, it would be a sweet deal. More average of a deal if it is 20 years old.

I'd put the bicycle Blue Book price a bit low... $200 wouldn't be bad for a similar bike, assuming it is pretty old. The frame may not be changing much between models, although components will. The Ritchey Stem probably puts it a little newer (1 1/8"?).

One thing about Craigslist. The best deals don't last long enough to post a note up here and wait for a response.
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Old 07-27-17, 02:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by u235 View Post
Assume OP was referring to this
Says it was posted 25 days ago.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/la...202505196.html
That doesn't look bad.

I'm guessing about 2004.
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/sear....aspx?id=92425

28 speed is an odd classification .

Probably 27 (9x3).

It does appear to have quite a few paint chips that have been touched up. Depending on the quality of work, they often look a bit splotchy, it is hard to judge from the photos.
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Old 07-27-17, 02:29 PM   #7
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Says it was posted 25 days ago.
Yeah, but updated a couple hours ago, so its likely still around.

Probably a bit cheaper than it would be listed around me, but nothing obviously scammy about it. Meet in a public place, look it over well (agree that it looks like there are quite a bit of paint chips that may have been repaired) try it out, if it fits take it home.
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Old 07-27-17, 03:39 PM   #8
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I really hate that you can never be sure if a bike on CL is stolen. Yeah that's the one.
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Old 07-27-17, 03:42 PM   #9
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Maybe it's a bootleg Chinese "James"Aurora instead of Jamis?
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Old 07-27-17, 04:32 PM   #10
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Are those common? Or are you joking...?
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Old 07-27-17, 05:25 PM   #11
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Are those common? Or are you joking...?


There are a few brands that have been faked. For example there are quite a few Colnago fakes that show up. Any bike that has been repainted and had the badges removed must be a Colnago

Here are some notes on Jamis:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jamis_Bicycles

Jamis is (or was) a Florida bike company that designed bikes here, and had them custom built in China or Taiwan.

Anyway, the big thing now are fake carbon fiber bike frames.

I highly doubt your Jamis is anything but a Jamis.

On a 13 year old bicycle, many components can be changed out, and upgraded, downgraded, or just exchanged.
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Old 07-27-17, 06:15 PM   #12
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I really hate that you can never be sure if a bike on CL is stolen. Yeah that's the one.
You can look the serial number up on the stolen bike registry.
https://bikeindex.org/stolen

I haven't tried it from a mobile phone. Perhaps they need an app.

Many local police departments will also look up a bike if you call them.

You can't be perfect, but at least you can put in a reasonable effort to check if it is stolen.
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Old 07-27-17, 06:21 PM   #13
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Sometimes you just get a deal on CL. I know I have.
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Old 07-27-17, 09:33 PM   #14
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Many local police departments will also look up a bike if you call them.

You can't be perfect, but at least you can put in a reasonable effort to check if it is stolen.
Yeah, the only problem with that is if it is stolen, they're not going to give you the number to check ahead of time, and if you buy it and it is stolen when you check, the cops are gonna take it and you're out the money.

In any case, the posting is gone, so either the OP got a new bike or the question is moot!
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Old 07-29-17, 05:05 AM   #15
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Sometimes you just get a deal on CL. I know I have.
+1 @bikemig

I scour CL daily for bike deals. I would like to say that I am somewhat intuitive about CL deals. My spider-senses tingle sometimes when I see a bike, and I tell myself to leave it alone. If the photo looks odd; if the location is a known sketchy area; if the wording is disjointed - anything that gives me a vibe - I won't bother. If I have to pick up a bike at someone's place, and carry more than a couple hundred bucks, I try to bring someone with me just for safety. Otherwise I could walk - or crawl - out with no bike and no cash either.

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Old 07-29-17, 06:19 AM   #16
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I really hate that you can never be sure if a bike on CL is stolen. Yeah that's the one.

I found a Surley LHT on CL for really cheap. I asked the seller if he had the receipt. He immediately became incensed over the fact I was implying it was stolen. He finally told me he "found" it in someone's trash. Possible but not very likely. I passed on the deal.
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Old 07-30-17, 06:38 PM   #17
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$200 is a lot to pay for a tired old bike.
Is the frame bent or straight?
Does it need new everything, crank, cogs brakes?
Made that model for 20 years?

I would offer $40 and come up to $50.
If the frame is straight. You do know how to check the frame for damage and cracks dont you?

Tired old bikes are not worth much. Parts are expensive.

I once bought a Trek 720 Multi Track for $10. The front rim and the frame were the only parts I kept. Most of the parts came from a bike with a cracked dropout. I bought 2 xt hubs $20 $40, 72 spokes x 15 cents each, 1 rim $40, and made a trade of 4 26 inch tires for 2 700c tires.

Do not buy an old bike and ask a mechanic to fix it up for you. A new bike wouold be less money

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Old 07-30-17, 07:23 PM   #18
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$200 is a lot to pay for a tired old bike.
Is the frame bent or straight?
Does it need new everything, crank, cogs brakes?
Made that model for 20 years?

I would offer $40 and come up to $50.
If the frame is straight. You do know how to check the frame for damage and cracks dont you?

Tired old bikes are not worth much. Parts are expensive.

I once bought a Trek 720 Multi Track for $10. The front rim and the frame were the only parts I kept. Most of the parts came from a bike with a cracked dropout. I bought 2 xt hubs $20 $40, 72 spokes x 15 cents each, 1 rim $40, and made a trade of 4 26 inch tires for 2 700c tires.

Do not buy an old bike and ask a mechanic to fix it up for you. A new bike wouold be less money

Wow look at you. You know more about the bike than the OP!
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Old 07-30-17, 09:46 PM   #19
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I've definitely learned some lessons after buying this. First real ride I noticed a few major things that somehow eluded me on the test ride. Just should have ridden over more terrain before purchase, or flipped the thing upside to check gearing.

First, I can only shift the between the smallest and middle chain rings. The middle chain ring is the only truly stable one. Second, in the middle ring the smallest, 2nd to largest and largest rear cogs are all prone to skipping and unstable to varying degrees.

I've come to the conclusion that the cassette probably needs to be replaced. I'm guessing the most likely cause of not being able to shift into the biggest chain ring is the left shifter itself?? These results are present after having a mechanic do a rear derailleur adjustment (this did help the skipping, but didn't eliminate it).

Overall, a bit disappointed, but I'm sure I'll be happy when I make it work like it should. Just replacing the cassette and chain could make it much closer to normal I guess? (And I can find a decent one for not too much right?)

Last edited by dtmoss; 07-30-17 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 07-30-17, 10:26 PM   #20
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https://www.google.com.mx/search?q=b...yyRdWS-2pd9cM:
before you spend any money on parts, check the frame alignment, and search for cracks.
Frame Alignment | Park Tool

Do all the work your self, do not pay a mechanic. Take a class or 2. Buying tools is less money than paying someone to fix it for you.

https://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki..._Organizations
Is there a bike coop near you?


Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmoss View Post
I've definitely learned some lessons after buying this. First real ride I noticed a few major things that somehow eluded me on the test ride. Just should have ridden over more terrain before purchase, or flipped the thing upside to check gearing.

First, I can only shift the between the smallest and middle chain rings. The middle chain ring is the only truly stable one. Second, in the middle ring the smallest, 2nd to largest and largest rear cogs are all prone to skipping and unstable to varying degrees.

I've come to the conclusion that the cassette probably needs to be replaced. I'm guessing the most likely cause of not being able to shift into the biggest chain ring is the left shifter itself?? These results are present after having a mechanic do a rear derailleur adjustment (this did help the skipping, but didn't eliminate it).

Overall, a bit disappointed, but I'm sure I'll be happy when I make it work like it should. Just replacing the cassette and chain could make it much closer to normal I guess? (And I can find a decent one for not too much right?)

Last edited by chrisx; 07-30-17 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 07-31-17, 04:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmoss View Post
I've definitely learned some lessons after buying this. First real ride I noticed a few major things that somehow eluded me on the test ride. Just should have ridden over more terrain before purchase, or flipped the thing upside to check gearing.

First, I can only shift the between the smallest and middle chain rings. The middle chain ring is the only truly stable one. Second, in the middle ring the smallest, 2nd to largest and largest rear cogs are all prone to skipping and unstable to varying degrees.

I've come to the conclusion that the cassette probably needs to be replaced. I'm guessing the most likely cause of not being able to shift into the biggest chain ring is the left shifter itself?? These results are present after having a mechanic do a rear derailleur adjustment (this did help the skipping, but didn't eliminate it).

Overall, a bit disappointed, but I'm sure I'll be happy when I make it work like it should. Just replacing the cassette and chain could make it much closer to normal I guess? (And I can find a decent one for not too much right?)
@chrisx is on to something about doing it yourself. I think that if you do this, you'll gain knowledge and skills. Let me lay it out for you.

1. Buy a cable kit.

2. Buy the appropriate tools needed for disassembling the bike.

3. Disassemble the bike completely.

4. Thoroughly clean, lubricate and reassemble everything.

5. Install your new cables.

6. Bask in your newfound education and ride on!

There are ample videos available that will teach you how to perform any mechanical task associated with a bike. On YouTube, RJ the Bike Guy gives a clean, clear demonstration. Park Tool has an instructional video section, and will guide you on what sort of tool you need for a particular task.
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Old 07-31-17, 07:39 AM   #22
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Touring plans? overhaul it completely to insure best reliability.
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Old 07-31-17, 08:38 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisx View Post
$200 is a lot to pay for a tired old bike.
Is the frame bent or straight?
Does it need new everything, crank, cogs brakes?
Made that model for 20 years?

I would offer $40 and come up to $50.
If the frame is straight. You do know how to check the frame for damage and cracks dont you?

Tired old bikes are not worth much. Parts are expensive.

I once bought a Trek 720 Multi Track for $10. The front rim and the frame were the only parts I kept. Most of the parts came from a bike with a cracked dropout. I bought 2 xt hubs $20 $40, 72 spokes x 15 cents each, 1 rim $40, and made a trade of 4 26 inch tires for 2 700c tires.

Do not buy an old bike and ask a mechanic to fix it up for you. A new bike wouold be less money
No, a new bike would not be less money, unless you bought an absolute pile of crap or way overpaid.

I've bought many used bikes, most of which cost more than $40. Know how many required anything more than a thorough clean, lube and consumables like cables and tires and brake pads? Exactly zero. Bikes aren't particularly complex vehicles that require specialized service. It is pretty easy to eye up a frame that has been crashed or otherwise trashed.

I bought an early Miyata cross bike for $20 this weekend. Triple butted CrMo tubing, has an advertised weight of 23.5#, with room for up to 38s knobby tires. Planning on swapping out the flat bars for drops, picking up a set of 3x7 brifters, and it'll need new cables and tubes and tires. All in, I should have less than $150 into a low-20s pound steel gravel bike. Picked up a 21# Univega Super Strada two weeks back for $75, full Shimano 600 drivetrain and Mavic wheels, haven't even bothered to do anything but tweak the setup and air the tires on that, and it is one heck of a smooth and fast bike. Cant really do a direct comparison, but even considering new low end ones are 8/9spd, and to get into those weights you are well into four digits, no way I'd find something comparable to either for those prices. I couldn't even get into Bikesdirect bikes for those prices.

That said, you are correct, you must do your own work. Labor will kill you on such a project.

Last edited by jefnvk; 07-31-17 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 07-31-17, 11:27 AM   #24
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Okay, so... I will definitely check the frame out before I do anything else.

But assuming the frame makes for a stable base, I'd love your guys's help on both picking which components to replace first to be conservative (if that's at all possible), as well as picking parts that are inexpensive but not unreliable or horrible quality.

Knowing what you do about the bike (and feel free to ask Qs or suggest more intel), what are the first things I should replace?

I should replace all the cables probably, but after that, start with the rear cassette?

Then if slipping still happens in the mid chain ring, replace only that ring (or option for the whole crankset)?

By the way, thank you to everyone who's participating in this thread. I really appreciate it!

Last edited by dtmoss; 07-31-17 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 07-31-17, 12:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmoss View Post
Okay, so... I will definitely check the frame out before I do anything else.

But assuming the frame makes for a stable base, I'd love your guys's help on both picking which components to replace first to be conservative (if that's at all possible), as well as picking parts that are inexpensive but not unreliable or horrible quality.

Knowing what you do about the bike (and feel free to ask Qs or suggest more intel), what are the first things I should replace?

I should replace all the cables probably, but after that, start with the rear cassette?

Then if slipping still happens in the mid chain ring, replace only that ring (or option for the whole crankset)?

By the way, thank you to everyone who's participating in this thread. I really appreciate it!
The cassette is probably good. Just clean the livin' bejeezus out of it. Like I said, a complete take-apart-rebuild job will tell you what you need to replace. Use WD-40 or mineral spirits to clean the greasy stuff, and Simple Green to clean any hardened oil.

Get a Park Tool chain checker. If the chain is stretched too badly, that may be the reason your gears are skipping. Study up on it.
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