KrisPistofferson

Only two rules:
1.No used bikes. None of this, "I found a Mercian in my size at the Goodwill for $2." It doesn't count, and will just make us all hate you.
2. No X-mart bikes. I know there's that one guy who comes to these forums that tours on them and defends them, and you can think I'm an elitist snob if you like, but this is about the cheapest thing you'd actually trust to ride across the country.
The cheapest viable touring bike I've been able to come up with is:
The Giant FCR4.
+
These
+
These
+
These

Seriously, this could be fun, and I'm anxious to see what some of you 26" tourers will put together.

filtersweep

Why? Old lugged steel frames with rack eyelets are a dime a dozen- and will trump a bargain basement Giant frameset any day.

amahana1

Dura Ace barrend shifters? I have a feeling that there are probably five other cheaper alternatives that I would take on a tour across the country.

Erick L

The thing is, for a cheap tourer, I think used is the way to go. About a month ago, I found a mid-90 steel Peugeot with LX (7s cassette, downtube shifters, indexed rear), front and rear racks, full fenders. 350$ CAD and very negociable. All it needed was a tune-up and fatter tires.

Tourers come up often in on-line classifieds. Just have to be patient.

Alekhine

I think his point is that ebay/garage sale/goodwill deals for bikes in every size vary in both price and availability, which defeats the purpose of thinking up a single bike that everyone here has access to and then naming a specific price for it. Not everyone is going to be able to find a perfect old Alex Singer in their size for $[x].

So I figure we're going to try here to come up with a single affordable tourer that everyone could try to build right now if they so chose.

That said, I'm going to think a bit before I contribute to this. It's a neat idea Kris.

KrisPistofferson

That is indeed my point. I myself use an old Le Tour that I've doctored up, so I know all about used. I just thought hypothetical would be fun. PLUS, what I've also noticed, is in getting my Le Tour all updated the way I wanted, 700c wheels,Eggbeaters, 105 derailleurs, etc. I have easily spent as much as the price of that Giant. Also, some of us like aluminum for touring, because it's stiff and doesn't rust. <-Please don't flame me for that.

KrisPistofferson

Also, I've set the bar so far at an even $600. Now I'm sure one of you resourceful MacGuyver-type chaps can beat that, WITHOUT going used, and WITHOUT a (shudder) Wal Mart bike.

Erick L

Devinci Mission. 600$ CAD at a local shop (on sale). Add a rigid fork and you should still be under the 600$ USD. Of course, you need at least racks. That's what these two use. They literally live on their bike, must be good enough.

Erick L

BTW, I paid 700$ CAD for my Peugeot Alpin Pro in 1998. Our dollar was really low at that time which means it was under 500$ USD. Came with STX-RC components, 40 spoke rear wheel on XT hub, bar-end shifters and all the needed braze-ons. The guy said it had been sitting in the shop for two years so I got a nice rebate. Doesn't help much but seeing people changing parts on more expensive bikes, I just like to brag about my cheap ready-to-tour bike. I guess my point is that if you want cheap, be patient and search.

BostonFixed

Cheapest? I guess you could ride cross country on a stock $225 Giant Boulder MTB. Steel frame, steel cassette, chain, and chain rings means that you won't blow through a drivetrain ,MTB gearing, and tons of eyletts. Well, you would need a rack or two, and bags. And maybe some bar ends to change it up a bit.

CHenry

For a frame: https://www.surlybikes.com/longhaul.html

Sigurdd50

I'm checking out this thread and keeping tabs on it (as I have one similar going -- re: NOvara randonee build up)

I think I got my idea cause I was offered a touring frame -- albeit, not a Surly or Bruce Gordon... but a good one and at a good price). So the challenge is to assemble it (with some help) and learn what is plenty good enough and avoid what is just MORE EXPENSIVE cuase it is lighter. That's the information I want. A commuter/touring bike/all-rounder carries some extra weight anyway (rack trunk, racks, blah blah) so what is 100 fewer grams going to matter?

To the Original Poster... you list components but not the drive train.
Also, not to hijack thread... but what about 700 vs. 27" vs 26" wheels/tires. what is interchangeable and what is not and what's the advantage... and I gotta go home now

CHenry

Surly Long-Haul Trucker frame
Sugino XD touring triple crank.
Shimano BR550 Cantis
Shimano Tiagra brake levers
Shimano 105 front derailleur
Shimano Deore SGS Rear derailleur
Shimano 105 headset (or Ritchey Logic)
Shimano LX9 cassette
Sun CR-18 rims (or 0-deg)
SKS fenders
No-name cables
Shimano Dura Ace Bar-end Shifters
Shimano Deore front hub 32 hole
Shimano Deore LX freehub 36 hole
Technomic Quill/Stem
DT spokes
26x1.5 Specialized Nimbus EX Armadillo tires
Nitto drop bars
Cinelli tapes
SRAM chain
FSA or Shimano sealed BB
Stainless Crank Bros eggbeaters
No-name seatpost
Saddle your choice

halfbiked

Kris, once you've / we've come up with an answer, is there anywhere online to acquire such a bike? Or would a person be smarter to go to an LBS and have them custom order the ride?

brokenrobot

I picked my Fuji Touring up for $450, including an upgrade to the derailleurs. Throw in another $100 for strong racks front and back... I was very happy with it over the course of my 2500 mile tour last fall.

-chris

BlueTwo

I assume you mean only the bike as a cheap tourer ,,not including the price of racks and bags..etc...

I have a Kona Smoke $450 cad ,, I added $50 shimano 520 pedals , $10 dollar barends mounted inboard and a rear mounted bike stand $15 ,,, you might want to change the seat , I use my seat from my roadie bike.

I have a Jandd front rack and radical rear rack with serratus panniers.

www.konaworld.com

https://www.konaworld.com

KrisPistofferson

This is funny. If I had the extra dough to build one from scratch, this is EXACTLY what I'd build. Seriously, I've got almost this exact list jotted in the back of my notebook.

KrisPistofferson

Most of the stuff everyone's listed is easy to find at online sources. For the actual bike, I assume the LBS would be more convenient, though. Most of the stuff I listed was from Nashbar.

KrisPistofferson

That Kona Smoke is an extremely good deal. I've been drooling over the Cannondale Bad Boy as of late, but that Smoke is mostly the same thing for much cheaper. Definitely a good idea.

Also, not that it's that relevant to anything, this is a really comfortable, cheap saddle.

CHenry

My list was roughly best value for money as an internet/catalogue bike built with all new equipment, using Harris and Nashbar as general guides. An LBS probably could sell the equivalent.

BlueTwo

The thing that appealls to me about the Kona is you can upgrade the parts as they slowly wear out,so you end up with the bike you really want ,always adding the latest part,, I've done a couple thousand touring kilometers on the stock bike and have had no problems,, I did change the tubes to presta add another $10

Moose

The FCR4 would make a miserable touring frame!! No rear rack bosses, gearing is completely wrong and bad geometry (for touring). Also, it was noted by a mechanic I know that the derailer hanger is weak.

Better off using a Giant Rincon mountain bike ($330) and add trekking bars with grip shifters and road tires or semislicks.

af895

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/s...oss-check.html

KrisPistofferson

It's got threaded holes for racks, a triple, and fairly relaxed road geometry, like the OCR. The rear derailleur is mountain, so get a cassette with a 32 cog if you need a lower gear, but I think the FCR is actually pretty good. The Giant Rincon is also an excellent idea, although I don't think I could tour on anything with suspension.

Moose

It only has two holes (one each side) on the dropouts, besides the water bottle bosses that is it for threaded holes. I did however mount a rack on one the other day for a customer using a U-bolt style clamp around the seat tube just above the top tube. It worked out nicely but I don't know how this would hold up to an extended loaded tour.

I also feel the same way about suspension.