chainring/cranset question
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chainring/cranset question
say i have a ultegra triple crankset (30/42/52), is it possible to switch those chainrings out for something more geared towards touring (24,38.48) or is life not that simple?
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Originally Posted by eric von zipper
say i have a ultegra triple crankset (30/42/52), is it possible to switch those chainrings out for something more geared towards touring (24,38.48) or is life not that simple?
The inner ring should be a 74mm BCD (I think) and should be easy to change as well.
Personally, I don't like the 130mm/74mm BCD that much. I'd prefer a 110/74 BCD. The gap between the middle ring and the innner ring on the 130/74 is large and you can get the chain trapped in between them. It's a bugger to get out especially since it happens just as you are trying to climb some giant hill
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As cyccommute mentioned above you're limited by the bcd. The lowest that ultegra will take is probably 50-38-24 which isn't that bad at all.
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Originally Posted by Frith
As cyccommute mentioned above you're limited by the bcd. The lowest that ultegra will take is probably 50-38-24 which isn't that bad at all.
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
My first touring bike had a 52/40/24 but I used a 14-34 rear freewheel too. Would almost prefer that.
i need to learn about gear inches and ratios and that stuff...it's all alein to me right now.
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Originally Posted by eric von zipper
i was wondering about that, the cassette that is. i saw on the harris cyclery website that there are custom made cassettes: Cyclotouriste, but they are v. pricey. would having a 13/15/17/19/21/24/27/30/34 cassette (or something in that vain) and the 30/42/52 crankrings up front be ok for touring?
i need to learn about gear inches and ratios and that stuff...it's all alein to me right now.
i need to learn about gear inches and ratios and that stuff...it's all alein to me right now.
One note on the gear calculator: If you change a number on the gears you want to look at and just recalculate, it will add it to the results page. That way you will be able to compare all kinds of ratios.
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I had (30/42/52) on my shimano 105 cranks with STI shifting and i installed some 'TA' chainrings 26/38/48 with an 11-27 cassette and now i'm a happy camper
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Originally Posted by bokes
I had (30/42/52) on my shimano 105 cranks with STI shifting and i installed some 'TA' chainrings 26/38/48 with an 11-27 cassette and now i'm a happy camper
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Its pretty easy realy... An allen key and a chainring nut tool. If you plan on doing it more than once, buy the tool, or just have the shop do it. I've done it without the tool but wont recomend that for disclaimer reasons. You can get away with leaving the crankset on the bike but its much easier to take it off, in which case you need a crankset remover. Of cource if you take the crankset off, you will have to readjust the front derailer. If you can, then its easy... If you can't then pay the shop.
I've wondered for quite a while why people suggest to replace the whole crankset when the rings are repaceable. Any comments on that?
Scott
I've wondered for quite a while why people suggest to replace the whole crankset when the rings are repaceable. Any comments on that?
Scott
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Originally Posted by ncscott
Its pretty easy realy... An allen key and a chainring nut tool. If you plan on doing it more than once, buy the tool, or just have the shop do it. I've done it without the tool but wont recomend that for disclaimer reasons. You can get away with leaving the crankset on the bike but its much easier to take it off, in which case you need a crankset remover. Of cource if you take the crankset off, you will have to readjust the front derailer. If you can, then its easy... If you can't then pay the shop.
I've wondered for quite a while why people suggest to replace the whole crankset when the rings are repaceable. Any comments on that?
Scott
I've wondered for quite a while why people suggest to replace the whole crankset when the rings are repaceable. Any comments on that?
Scott
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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I recently went from 52-42-30 on shimano rsx to 52-38-24 and that worked pretty well, once i worked out all of the wrinkles. I recently bought a 155 mm modified crankset from Mark Stonich that I am mondo thrilled about.
Anyways, when buying your chainrings, buy ramped if at all possible.
Anyways, when buying your chainrings, buy ramped if at all possible.
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As I have previously stated on these forums, I don't really tour at this time but hope to get back onto the long distance roads in the next year or two. However, when I was touring in the mid 90's for about six years of rather intense (my friends would say obsessed!) riding, a 1994 Cannondale T700 was essentailly the only bike I rode. The gearing that I had on this bike, after some tweaking) was:
44/34/20 chainrings and a 11-28 cassette.
It was great for touring in the mountains of BC, Alberta, Montana, Idaho and Washington. I'm sure the low gearing (.71 ratio) helped keep me injury free during that time period. And on the other end, I did a lot of no-load training on that bicycle including a few 200 and 300km brevets. The high end was fine for my style of riding which is by no means timid.
My recommendation - use the lowest, low gearing possible for touring.
44/34/20 chainrings and a 11-28 cassette.
It was great for touring in the mountains of BC, Alberta, Montana, Idaho and Washington. I'm sure the low gearing (.71 ratio) helped keep me injury free during that time period. And on the other end, I did a lot of no-load training on that bicycle including a few 200 and 300km brevets. The high end was fine for my style of riding which is by no means timid.
My recommendation - use the lowest, low gearing possible for touring.
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If you check out the discount mailorder stores (Nashbar, etc) you can find some cheap cranks, eg a 44/32/22 Truvativ (a cheap mountain bike crank) for $50. Chainrings will cost $25 to $40+ each. The Ultegra front changer can handle 22 teeth (52-30) so you should still be OK. And you will have some serious low gears without having to change the rear cassette. You may need a new bottom bracket but ask Nashbar.
Brian.
Brian.