Cyclocross-auxiliary brake levers
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Cyclocross-auxiliary brake levers
I'd like to add cyclocross brake levers ( I have a set of tektro 2.0 levers ready to go on ) in addition to aero brake levers on my new LHT build. I don't yet have my new frame, but as I play with these levers, I can't visualize how they function or exactly how they are installed. They don't seem to grip the brake cable but they must push the housing to activate the brakes. I also have cantilever brakes ready to install when the frame arrives. Anybody have experience with these and their installation?
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I put these on my wife's LHT build last spring. She wasn't used to riding drops, and having 'upright' brakes doubled her confidence. I asked her several times during our tour if she used 'em much; turns out probably 50% of the time, certainly more often in traffic than in the countryside. So I'm thinking about putting a pair on my LHT, too.
Mechanically, it's simple. It's a closed system: the housing confines the cable, so if you shorten the cable or lengthen the housing, the only thing that can give is to apply the brakes. (Try pulling the housing away from a cable stop, notice the brakes close without you touching the cable itself.) The cable itself passes through these levers without interference. So installing them is a simple matter of cutting out about 1/2" of housing and inserting the new brake lever there.
In practice, it's not that simple. The section of housing 'downstream' from the new lever needs room to maneuver and extend; when you apply the brake the housing will move quite far away from the stem. So you have to make sure the housing sections don't interfere with each other, with the shift cables, with the handlebar bag, etc. In the end, it's a combination of: 1) length of the housing piece, 2) choice of routing (inside or outside of the shift cables, for instance), 3) position and angle of the brake lever assembly, 4) finding the right setting for the set stop (the tiny set screw on the brake handle). The old rule of "measure twice, cut once" comes close -- I'd measure 10 times. I used an old piece of brake housing to find the right length and position before I cut the good stuff.
The really tough part was getting it just right so they didn't interfere with the handlebar bag.
My opinion is to use the highest quality housing, expensive compressionless stuff. With added sections and more movement of the housing, non-compressionless housing (the traditional kind) will probably give you soft brakes or other problems.
-- Mark
Mechanically, it's simple. It's a closed system: the housing confines the cable, so if you shorten the cable or lengthen the housing, the only thing that can give is to apply the brakes. (Try pulling the housing away from a cable stop, notice the brakes close without you touching the cable itself.) The cable itself passes through these levers without interference. So installing them is a simple matter of cutting out about 1/2" of housing and inserting the new brake lever there.
In practice, it's not that simple. The section of housing 'downstream' from the new lever needs room to maneuver and extend; when you apply the brake the housing will move quite far away from the stem. So you have to make sure the housing sections don't interfere with each other, with the shift cables, with the handlebar bag, etc. In the end, it's a combination of: 1) length of the housing piece, 2) choice of routing (inside or outside of the shift cables, for instance), 3) position and angle of the brake lever assembly, 4) finding the right setting for the set stop (the tiny set screw on the brake handle). The old rule of "measure twice, cut once" comes close -- I'd measure 10 times. I used an old piece of brake housing to find the right length and position before I cut the good stuff.
The really tough part was getting it just right so they didn't interfere with the handlebar bag.
My opinion is to use the highest quality housing, expensive compressionless stuff. With added sections and more movement of the housing, non-compressionless housing (the traditional kind) will probably give you soft brakes or other problems.
-- Mark
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I would echo EmmCeeBee's comments on cable compression. I fitted a pair of Salsa Cross levers in line with Centaur levers and Avid BB7 disc brakes on my Airnimal folding MTB.
My first fitting attempt used standard Campagnolo brake cables, however in the 10" section between the brake levers and the cross levers, pre-stressing the cables, I suffered about 1/4" of outer cable compression.
This meant I had to move the cross levers in by 1/4" - which put them too far away from the thick part of the bar and cross levers would no longer clamp tightly to the handlebars.
But worse after I recalculated cable length to compensate for this, the cable still compressed and gave a brake fade effect with extended braking.
Eventually I switched to Avid Flak jacket cables and everything worked first time - no compression and great performance and feel on both the Centaur levers and the Cross levers.
My first fitting attempt used standard Campagnolo brake cables, however in the 10" section between the brake levers and the cross levers, pre-stressing the cables, I suffered about 1/4" of outer cable compression.
This meant I had to move the cross levers in by 1/4" - which put them too far away from the thick part of the bar and cross levers would no longer clamp tightly to the handlebars.
But worse after I recalculated cable length to compensate for this, the cable still compressed and gave a brake fade effect with extended braking.
Eventually I switched to Avid Flak jacket cables and everything worked first time - no compression and great performance and feel on both the Centaur levers and the Cross levers.
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I was thinking of adding them before I left, but I guess my bars were the right height, and I was very comfortable on the hoods. I moved my hands around, but never had them all that high for long enough to want them after the tour was over. What I would like are double front brakes, I would love to add a bartop lever for a front disc brake or any other type of brake one can double up on.
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I've installed the Salsa cyclocross levers several times and haven't had any problems. I really like them since I ride mostly on the tops of the bars. I would recommend against the Tektros though - you get what you pay for and the Tektros I've seen have had a pretty crappy feel to them.
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Hi...I will be doing the same thing. Cane Creek and Tektro have PDF files in their support area. https://www.canecreek.com/images/stor...stop_instr.pdf
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Cross-top levers
I absolutely love 'em.
I would immediately put them on any touring bike (which I have done, multiple times).
They're great for riding higher on the cross bar: in traffic, in urban areas, when you need to look around... also makes it easier/safer to switch your hand position to the tops of the bars for longer periods of time, just for the sake of rest and variation.
Sam
I would immediately put them on any touring bike (which I have done, multiple times).
They're great for riding higher on the cross bar: in traffic, in urban areas, when you need to look around... also makes it easier/safer to switch your hand position to the tops of the bars for longer periods of time, just for the sake of rest and variation.
Sam
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I've installed the Salsa cyclocross levers several times and haven't had any problems. I really like them since I ride mostly on the tops of the bars. I would recommend against the Tektros though - you get what you pay for and the Tektros I've seen have had a pretty crappy feel to them.
Duppie
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I think he meant to say "snappy feel". So that's a good thing. They came stock on my 'cross bike and they work great and feel snappy. Then again, I have nothing else to compare them to.