rear rack options for a bike without eyelets for one?
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rear rack options for a bike without eyelets for one?
I swung by a bike shop today to see what my options were for replacing my rear rack (a very cheap one that attaches to the seat post). Being as my freshly acquired Trek 400 does not have eyelets(?) for mounting a rack to the frame, it looks like options may be limited to getting a higher quality seatpost mount.
The experts there seemed to think modifying the frame to fit a rear rack (like maybe putting in eyelets somehow) or just welding the sucker onto it where it's supposed to go would compromise the integrity of the frame, potentially leading to a horrific crash someday when the frame eventually cracks under pressure and sends me flailing. Is this so? Is there another option I don't know about?
I like this bike. It's not a touring style. I don't want a touring bike. This one looks a little more like a racing bike. I'd like to do some touring on it anyway. And haul groceries, commute, etc, when saving up between long distance trips.
The seatpost mounted racks I saw had a weight limit of ~20lbs. I do lightweight long-distance backpacking (25-30lbs max ever carried anywhere for any length of time) and would lean towards lightweight in cycling too. It would sure be nice to have a rack easily compatible with panniers and less issue with weight though.
What can I do besides get a different bike? There have got to be people out there that do touring on bikes not built specific for touring.
The experts there seemed to think modifying the frame to fit a rear rack (like maybe putting in eyelets somehow) or just welding the sucker onto it where it's supposed to go would compromise the integrity of the frame, potentially leading to a horrific crash someday when the frame eventually cracks under pressure and sends me flailing. Is this so? Is there another option I don't know about?
I like this bike. It's not a touring style. I don't want a touring bike. This one looks a little more like a racing bike. I'd like to do some touring on it anyway. And haul groceries, commute, etc, when saving up between long distance trips.
The seatpost mounted racks I saw had a weight limit of ~20lbs. I do lightweight long-distance backpacking (25-30lbs max ever carried anywhere for any length of time) and would lean towards lightweight in cycling too. It would sure be nice to have a rack easily compatible with panniers and less issue with weight though.
What can I do besides get a different bike? There have got to be people out there that do touring on bikes not built specific for touring.
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1) get a big saddle bag, carradice comes to mind.
2) use p-clamps
3) use combination of rear rack or saddle bag with front handlebar bag.
4) front rack the connects to brakes
35 years ago I did loaded touring on my Italian road bike. Blackburn used to make some accessories that made up eyelets in the rear forks. The only problem is if you have big feet, you may have heel strike on the panniers.
2) use p-clamps
3) use combination of rear rack or saddle bag with front handlebar bag.
4) front rack the connects to brakes
35 years ago I did loaded touring on my Italian road bike. Blackburn used to make some accessories that made up eyelets in the rear forks. The only problem is if you have big feet, you may have heel strike on the panniers.
Last edited by cyclist2000; 10-21-10 at 02:05 PM.
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Yes, as mentioned above, you have several options. I'd go with p-clamps from a hardware store as the most versatile since it'll let you use just about any rear rack and panniers. I've done quite a bit of touring with my Cannondale bike marketed as a 'criterium-geometry' (i.e. close coupled) frame. Had to keep the panniers as far back on the rack as possible to avoid heel-strike, but it worked fine. And I was limited to 25mm tires and no fenders so I didn't go off-road - but gravel and an occasional fire road were ok. The rear rack keeps off much of the spray and I clamped a plastic guard under the downtube to minimize spray from the front tire.
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Genius! P-clamps, so simple and cheap! This seems to be a good first thing to begin experimenting with. Hopefully it will work fantastic.
Thanks.
Are there any possible downsides to using P-clamps?
I see what you're saying about heel strikes. Looks like there are good enough ways to overcome that. And, beng a hiker, modifications to packs (in this case panniers) and packing methods for maximizing a comfortable carry is just what we do.
Thanks.
Are there any possible downsides to using P-clamps?
I see what you're saying about heel strikes. Looks like there are good enough ways to overcome that. And, beng a hiker, modifications to packs (in this case panniers) and packing methods for maximizing a comfortable carry is just what we do.
#6
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You might want to check out Adventure Cycling's store for the Axiom Trekk Seat Collar that goes around the seat post and has eyelets to mount standard rear rack. I've never used or seen one in person but I thought they would be a good alternative and cleaner than P clamps. Your Trek would have a smaller dia seat post but you may be able to shim it. I'm surprised they don't have a smaller dia available but maybe you could contact Axiom directly.
https://www.adventurecycling.org/stor...llar-318mm.cfm
https://www.adventurecycling.org/stor...llar-318mm.cfm
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Last edited by badger_biker; 10-22-10 at 09:20 AM. Reason: more info
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I have a 1988 Schwinn Paramount with no standard mounting means for a rear rack. I used a combination of 2 Tubus fit solutions with a Racktime Addit Rear Rack. Tubus is amazing and I have a cargo on another bike. I didn't want to spend that kind of money for this bike. Racktime is their more budget minded aluminum line and is fantastic for the money. Super solid choice. This is what I used and it has been amazing and most importantly VERY solid. The Tubus Quick Release rear rack mounting system will ONLY work with Tubus or Racktime racks as it mounts thru holes that exist at the bottom of the rack already. For Racktime, you have to drill the second hold yourself. Takes two seconds. The other nice thing about the QR mounting system is that is pushes the rack back a bit to help with heal strike issues you may have with smaller frames or more road/race frames with shorter chain stays.
Racktime Addit
https://www.racktime.com/en/rear-carriers/addit
https://www.therandonneeshop.com/products/show/61-addit
Tubus Quick Release Rear Rack Mounting System
https://www.therandonneeshop.com/prod...ounting_system
Tubus Seat Stay Mounting Clamps (come is many sizes 14, 16, 18, 21 and 24mm)
https://www.therandonneeshop.com/prod...ounting_clamps
These are like fancy P Clamps. I have used P Clamps before. I think the Nitto ones are the nicest and stiffest.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/show...-clamps/20-016
These Tubus clamps are super solid, and no, if installed carefully the lack of rubber isn't an issue. They do not move at all....
As a note: I had used P clamps before switching to these tubus fit solutions and found that it mounted the rack too high and even closer to the seatube. I not only found the load a bit unstable due to the rack being so high off the rear wheel, but was having heal strike issues with a small/med sized pannier. In addition, the rack was not as solid when attached with the P-clamps. Especially the small ones way down at the bottom of the tubing near the rear dropout. Skinny tubing ='s a small and more flexible sized P Clamp. Just my 2 cents.
I agree with the other post. I have always heard good things about Old Man Mountain. Also look at the Rear Cold Springs and the Sherpa: Would have to use P Clams at the seat stays if you don't have Canti boses which I don't think you do on the Trek 400.
https://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/...RearRacks.html
Racktime Addit
https://www.racktime.com/en/rear-carriers/addit
https://www.therandonneeshop.com/products/show/61-addit
Tubus Quick Release Rear Rack Mounting System
https://www.therandonneeshop.com/prod...ounting_system
Tubus Seat Stay Mounting Clamps (come is many sizes 14, 16, 18, 21 and 24mm)
https://www.therandonneeshop.com/prod...ounting_clamps
These are like fancy P Clamps. I have used P Clamps before. I think the Nitto ones are the nicest and stiffest.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/show...-clamps/20-016
These Tubus clamps are super solid, and no, if installed carefully the lack of rubber isn't an issue. They do not move at all....
As a note: I had used P clamps before switching to these tubus fit solutions and found that it mounted the rack too high and even closer to the seatube. I not only found the load a bit unstable due to the rack being so high off the rear wheel, but was having heal strike issues with a small/med sized pannier. In addition, the rack was not as solid when attached with the P-clamps. Especially the small ones way down at the bottom of the tubing near the rear dropout. Skinny tubing ='s a small and more flexible sized P Clamp. Just my 2 cents.
I agree with the other post. I have always heard good things about Old Man Mountain. Also look at the Rear Cold Springs and the Sherpa: Would have to use P Clams at the seat stays if you don't have Canti boses which I don't think you do on the Trek 400.
https://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/...RearRacks.html
Last edited by fast_track; 10-24-10 at 09:51 AM. Reason: more info
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If you have dual stays, you could always get a Pletscher-style rack. I have an old steel 27" and it worked just fine on my first tour a month ago or so. Plus it's got the little spring trap which you can use to put stuff in without panniers. You just have to be careful installing it or the rack will rub the paint off of your seat stay.
https://www.bikemanforu.com/racks.html
https://www.bikemanforu.com/racks.html
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I have the Tubus QuickRelease mount for my road bike / Fly rack combo, it works great. I've also done the full p-clamp route on a mountain bike. I would say that if you are carrying a light load, the p-clamps are OK, but for a heavy load and/or rough roads, the QR kit provides more stability, or at least peace of mind the that whole thing won't break off and fall into your spokes.
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I have the Tubus QuickRelease mount for my road bike / Fly rack combo, it works great. I've also done the full p-clamp route on a mountain bike. I would say that if you are carrying a light load, the p-clamps are OK, but for a heavy load and/or rough roads, the QR kit provides more stability, or at least peace of mind the that whole thing won't break off and fall into your spokes.
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My solution to this problem was a Carradice SQR bag support and a Zimbale 17 litre bag, and a front rack. This isn't what I use for touring, but for my daily commute and errands around town as well as longer rides in the country that aren't overnighters. To my mind it makes for a nice clean look, the quick release bag support is a snap to use, the outside pockets on the saddlebag make for a nice place to put my phone, glasses case, and wallet, and you can add a Carradice Cape Roll for even more carrying capacity if you need it. I did that, with double leather straps and a few carabiners which makes for a very versatile system.
Thanks to my experience touring, I'm comfortable with a load up front, so on days I need to carry more, I can fit a pannier or two. Now that it is winter and I need to portage a bit more on a daily basis I've add a trunk bag (Topeak) to the front rack. If you don't have any eyelets up front to mount a rack up there, not only will the P-clamp solutions above work, but some companies like Old Man Mountain make racks that mount on the brake bosses.
Thanks to my experience touring, I'm comfortable with a load up front, so on days I need to carry more, I can fit a pannier or two. Now that it is winter and I need to portage a bit more on a daily basis I've add a trunk bag (Topeak) to the front rack. If you don't have any eyelets up front to mount a rack up there, not only will the P-clamp solutions above work, but some companies like Old Man Mountain make racks that mount on the brake bosses.
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Hi - I created some brackets - drilled some centre holes in my rack, made a bracket from aluminium to attach from the brake mount and created some "feet" for the rack that I connected with hose clamps to the frame. Took it out for the first spin today (unloaded) and it works pretty well...
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I have built a homemade seat rail mounted rack. I saw the videos on youtube about the Arkel seat rail mounted rack. I understand what they say about not mounting to a seatpost if you have a carbon fiber seat post...I do. I made my own homemade version of their rack that sits just above the rear wheel, not up in outer space like the Arkel does. Also my rack has built in camera mounts so I can mount the camera and take video from numerous different camera angles...most of which most people are not use to seeing shots taking from those kinds of angles unless you had someone else riding with you taking the pics for you. In the case of rack I built I should be able to take video while riding the bike from positions other than the helmet or handlebars. Most angles would include me in the shot. Not sure which angles I've thought about so far are the most unique, maybe the over the back shot...you couldn't grab it even if you had someone riding with you, at least not the one I'm thinking about.
Just watch any rack how it gets mounted. The rack I built last year that I thought I should have no trouble with ended up helping out with me getting a new bike this spring. I ended up with a hole in the frame as a result of the rack. Now I don't mount anything to the frame.
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OME and Freeload (now Thule) come to mind.
Or try bikepacking bags, like the ones from Carradice if you don't mind the smaller volume and the loss of versatility
Or try bikepacking bags, like the ones from Carradice if you don't mind the smaller volume and the loss of versatility
#15
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Genius! P-clamps, so simple and cheap! This seems to be a good first thing to begin experimenting with. Hopefully it will work fantastic.
Thanks.
Are there any possible downsides to using P-clamps?
I see what you're saying about heel strikes. Looks like there are good enough ways to overcome that. And, beng a hiker, modifications to packs (in this case panniers) and packing methods for maximizing a comfortable carry is just what we do.
Thanks.
Are there any possible downsides to using P-clamps?
I see what you're saying about heel strikes. Looks like there are good enough ways to overcome that. And, beng a hiker, modifications to packs (in this case panniers) and packing methods for maximizing a comfortable carry is just what we do.
#16
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Alternatively Xtrawheel a trailer, with 1` wheel allows the rear panniers to go there,
rather than on the perhaps too short of a bike rear end.
rather than on the perhaps too short of a bike rear end.
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If you're a UL hiker, you might be able to figure out a way to do a rackless setup. I'm also a hiker (trail name "Garlic") and I'm jealous of Nun's setup and others like it. I have some old panniers and an old touring bike and I'll keep using those until they wear out, but I'm definitely in the market for rackless packs. It bothers me to put 15 pounds of stuff in 4 pound panniers.
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If we're going to talk trailers..... For road use I highly recommend the Carry Freedom Trailer. I hauled one from one side of Australia to the other and think its a great bit of kit.
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What bags are you using?
P-clamps are a good solution to attach racks to bikes without eyelets. But it's possible to tour without racks at all. Google "bikepacking" to see examples and search on "ultralight" in this forum for discussions on lightweight gear an rack options. Here is an example of a "fully loaded" rackless setup on a bike with no eyelets