Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Victoria, BC
Bikes: Specialized HardRock
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Just saw this thread now but here we go.
I cycled Morrocco in November of 1997. I flew from Frankfurt to Casablanca and took a train right from the airport to Rabat. There I spent 2 days to get used to the new culture.
I cycled from Rabat to Fes; Fes to Meknes (nice campground in the city); Day trip from Meknes to Volubilis (Roman ruins).
I caught a ride from Meknes to Ar-Rashidia (OK little campground).
Then I cycled from Ar-Rashidia to Erfoud; from Erfoud 3 days almost to Agdir. The headwinds were wearing me out and I accepted a ride from someone I'd met at one of the campgrounds. From Agdir I cycled to Ouarzazate (miserable campground). From Ouarzazate I did a day trip to Ait Benhadou (did you know parts of the movie Gladiator where filmed there?). Then from Ouarzazate I cycled across the Atlas Mountains 2 days to Marrakech (yet another crappy campground). From Marrakech I took the train back to Casablanca and spent 3 days there before heading back to Frankfurt. All the roads I used were surfaced with varying surfaces and shoulder widths. Morroccan drivers were reasonably courteous but with some fast and aggressive ones thrown in for good measure. But overall, they're used to sharing the road with bikes, donkeys, horse drawn carts and old mopeds.
Morrocco is a dry country but bottled water seems to be sold everywhere. Just when I thought I was in trouble, running out of water and my map not showing any towns nearby, there would be a roadside store selling water.
Morroccans are a very friendly people and it's a very safe country. BUT be prepared for an onslaught of hustlers anywhere near any tourist sites. You will possibly be offered dope and you'd be less than smart to go for that in a foreign country. You'll also find children constantly approaching you asking for Dirhams, stylos (pens), and bonbons (candy). I personally don't give handouts as I feel that it creates generations of people who've come to expect freebies from tourists. While Morrocco is poorer than most "western" countries I feel there are better ways to make contributions.
From what I've seen I'd suggest seeing Ait Benhadou, Marrakech, and Volubilis. The fringes of the Sahara were also quite nice with very few people and a lot of traditional Berbers. This was all 10 years ago and things may have changed somewhat since then.