Installing Rear SKS Fender on T800?
I helped my friend get her first real bike - a Cannondale T800. I am trying to install SKS fenders on it. The front went on fine, but there is only one brazeon at the rear that the rack is using. The design of the rack makes it not possible to just add the fender stays on the outside of the rear rack bolt. The fender stay will work on the inside of the rear rack, but that is destined to fail on her due to the way the load will be applied to the bolt.
I was hoping someonewho has this bike has figured this out - any suggestions that don't involve fabricating something from scratch?
No, I'm afraid you're going to be fabricating something....
Start with trying sheetmetal *tabs* about 1inch long, 1/2 wide. Wrap them around the rack posts. Drill a bolt hole through them, bolt the fender stays into these.
I hope this makes sense...it's easier to do than type directions to!
(make a couple sets of these tabs for future use-- you'll find them handy.)
Thanks! I got the fender on using zip ties. I am not 100% satisfied, but hopefully it will work for now. I'm completely unhandy so I'm not going to fabricate something more elaborate, but I passed your suggestion on to her husband....lol....I'll leave the ball in his court! The bike is rideable now so my job is done...=-)
Last edited by vik; 02-05-07 at 07:07 AM.
Zip ties are often the *professional* choice. Many industry wrenches and salesfolks have them on their personal bikes. Making those cute little brass *u-bolts* of mounting the fenders-- well, that's for the paying customers
+1 on cable ties.
I started out they way Vik describes, with the mudguard bolted to the chainstay bridge, the seatstay bridge and inboard of the rack on the single eyelets. I saw the Rivendell article on using ties and thought "No way, that looks totally amateurish".
I haven't had the bolt break, but while riding on gravel roads recently the bolt in the chainstay bridge vibrated its way most of the way out, and the tab that secures the mudguard to the seatstay bridge has snapped from metal fatigue.
I have now replaced all the bolts with cable ties.
I try to change out all the zip ties on my bikes once or twice a year--- they do crack with stress. I also never leave home without a couple spares-- big tour or just ridinf to work. These little plastic gizmos can fix all kinds of problems.
All Mod Cons
You should have seen my old bridgestone at the end of a three-day(!) tour. Not only that, but the bag of ties I brought along was multicolored, presumably so electricians and the like can color-code stuff. My bike ended up looking like a perverted rainbow
Originally Posted by tacomee
I don't trust that bike with more than 30 miles anymore.
I got my T800 new from Silverdale Cyclery, Bremerton, WA. and the boss, Mr Brumsickle, had already fitted my requested SKS fenders with the original Cannondale rack in place with no extra fittings. Then awkward me turns up with his "English" rear rack (that fits his English panniers!) and 5 minutes later, the other rack was on, no problem. My bike is a "small" so I wonder if that makes any difference?
Can you post some pics?
Originally Posted by banthevan
I'll try & get to put some real pictures of them fitted to my bike on tomorrow (Sat. Feb 10). It's 1.40am at the moment here in England! The rack I took over to be fitted was the TorTec Tour Rear Rack:-
It looks quite wiry compared to the stock Cannondale one but it didn't budge at all during the trip.
Banthevan thanks so much for the pics. Putting the fender stays inside the rack solves the problem, but I am hesitant to do so because it changes the way the rack bolt is loaded from straight sheer to a bending moment. Perhaps it is no big deal as your experience seems to indicate - hmmmm....I'll have to think about it. Thanks again for your post.
That's a good question vik, one I've wondered about for years.
I have my rack/fenders on my commuter bike mounted in the one hole with a long bolt and it seems to hold up fine. But honestly, I don't carry that much weight with it.
My guess is Banthevan's rack would hold up to pretty much though anything-- although I'm too chicken to try it. I've never seen those bolts give fail on a rack, even when the rack just totally folded over. Most of the time, the welds on the rack crack out.
I also believe that the cheaper *flat pack* racks, the ones that come in three pieces and bolt together with allen bolts might me the strongest becuase they lack welds on a angle. I even believe that some of cheapest racks, the $19.99 ones at Performance, would hold up to hard touring use-- racks just seem tougher now than they did 10 years ago.
Sorry for the topic drift folks......
Look at the pictures how I did it. My mtb has only brazeon at the rear too. My construction is a bit weird, but it’s working. I used only stock components to fix the fender. IMO to use the same brazeon to fix a rear rack and a fender stay both isn’t the best solution, no compromise on reliability.
BTW. Too many BTWs, but maybe it is useful also. I have not many comments on the pictures below. Some custom solutions are shown on them. How don’t use a standard braseon for rear rack mounting, if the frame is made of alloy, and how to install a rear rack on a bike, which has disc brakes.
Last edited by Alex L; 02-12-07 at 06:07 AM.