kponds

Hey man I just started riding again. Feel free to shoot me an email, it's kponds@gmail.com

ozarkman

R300 Raleigh chromoly alum.overside tubes, 7 years of heavy touring rides. No problem yet even the originals rims have managed to hold. Only change tires, now on are: 700-37s Cont. Travel Contacts.
Before I ride a ancient steel frame schiwn. No problem ither (And I miss her profundly) and never I forgot the smooth and quiet ride of this bicycle. I sold it to a mexican at work who ride it to work everyday for about 3 years now, so I see her every day the only thing is that he paint it blue, white and red, with little stars in the downtube!!!!. Part of me always regret to have sold it but the guy was riding to work in to big for him 27- 12 speed so I talk him in to buy it for 150.00 dollars. He love it!!!!

Turd Ferguson

Sorry to bring an old thread back from the dead..but..

Often the complaint with aluminum is that it's s stiff ride, not quite as comfortable as steel. Personally, I prefer my aluminum frame ( Marin Novato ) but have been considering purchasing a steel touring bike. As I'm getting married this fall, and $$ is limited I'll probably just end up using the Marin for this season. To help with comfort and road vibrations I'm thinking adding a carbon seat post and handle bar might solve the problem? Perhaps also adding a caarbon front fork? Oddly enough, my Marin has all the braze on for touring (front fork & rear braze ons), even though it's a "urban ride".

The only think I don't like about the bike is the frame may be a bit too small ( I'm 6'1" - frame 18.5" ). I think the small frame cause my muscle an exacerbated my knee problem last tour.

NoReg

I'm the same height as you and ride a 22" x 24.5" I would say yours could be causing you problems depending on the specifics.

I find that any problems with ride I have can be pretty much cured by tire choice. I have a bad back etc... but am comfortable with 1.5" slick at 90 lbs. You could check out Bob Brown's site to check out his numbers for why Al is not actually rougher ride, and he's a steel builder. I've been comfy on both Canondale Al and various steel bikes, I don't really think the differences are that significant. At one time they used to sell aluminum as being a softer ride, presumably because it's a softer metal. I'm not saying that's true, but there is only so soft that a well designed double triangle truss with a vertical member up your a$$ can be.

hoss10

Ah the old Aluminum vs. Steel debate. I have a somewhat unique perspective on this as I have rode both, (thousands of miles) and I am huge.

I don't think you will break a well made Aluminum frame I have road my Cannondale Killer V 1997 (I think) for about 30,000 kilometres, and it has not broke. What it has done has at times is loosen my fillings. The tubes on the beast are huge, ( I am willing to bet that the Killer V frame is the stiffest bike frame every made) it does not flex.

So then is Aluminum stronger then steel, no way. Al. bike can be stiffer because they can use much larger tubes without being heavier. I once ordered a Rocky Mountain Hammer Race in a XL. When it came in I sat on it and torqued the chain stays almost an inch sideways. (I didn't buy the bike).

Can steel bikes be stiff, strong, and long lasting? Sure you just can't worry about weight, check out the size of the steel tubes on my new bike, steel frame (the frame weighs about 5 pounds). I think what happened to steel bikes is that the manufacturers got caught up in the "weight weinnie war"and gave up stiffness to reduce weight.

skookum

Well usually aluminum bikes are stiffer because you have to over build
to overcome their inherent lack of fatigue limit as compared to steel.

To get past the fatigue problem you need bigger tubes which give a stiffer frame and you end up with something the same weight as steel but stiffer.
If you use light weight Al tubes you can have a lighter bike than steel, but it will eventually fail because of the lack of a fatigue limit.

I'm not sure carbon handlebars and seat post are going to be all that more comfortable.
I know the bike shops are pushing that stuff but if the bike isn't the right size and isn't set up right you aren't going to fix that by replacing alloy with carbon. That may not be the case with your bike.

If you are happy with your aluminum bike and it fits you, why change?

I agree with peterpan, tires can make a big difference. A higher volume tire with a little less air can smooth the ride out a lot. Many people pump their tires up over the maximum recommended then complain about the harsh ride and talk about switching to carbon.

Turd Ferguson

[QUOTE=skookum]
If you are happy with your aluminum bike and it fits you, why change?

QUOTE]

Ideally I'd like to stick with my old horse but I'm concerned it might be a tad too small. When riding I tend to lean into the handle bars as they are much lower than the saddle. I'm trying to figure out different ways to make the ride more comfortable. Perhaps adding more spacers in the neck, moving the seath backwards (although I tend to lean more forward when doing this). Anyone know of a place in downtown Toronto where I can get properly fitting and have the necessary modification done to my bike?

Niles H.

Nashbar has some steel mountain bike frames on sale for 44.95. They can be set up for touring. One option.

The carbon fiber wrap idea is a good one. If you are able to do this, you are in better shape than someone who is depending on finding a good welder, or any welder. You can do the repair yourself, wherever you are.

There is also the option of wrapping your frame in (epoxy-saturated) carbon fiber before you leave. It isn't that difficult to learn, and isn't that hard to do. You would then have a very strong frame.

Or, you could reinforce the frame in critical areas.

Or, you could be ready to have Nashbar ship you a frame if needed. They also have touring frames, road frames, cross frames, 853 MTB frames, aluminum MTB frames... https://www.nashbar.com/results.cfm?c...it=y&pagename=

You could also have a complete bike picked out (perhaps a Nashbar bike, or some other one), in case of problems. Then have it shipped to wherever you are, if you really need it.

(Or frame plus needed parts, using whatever components you can from your existing bike.)

That way you could try your bike out, and see what happens.

Also, gentle riding styles, including taking it easy on the fast and bumpy downhills, will go a long way toward making a bike last longer. It's often the accumulated high stresses over time that finally fatigue the metal beyond its limits.