Sinksand

After reading information about fit online, I made some adjustments to my current bike. Specifically, I raised the saddle to where it should be (knee with a slight bend when standing on the pedal at the bottom of the stroke). It made a huge difference in the power that I am getting to the pedals. My revolutions feel nice and smooth. But, my lower back has been hurting since the change (about a month). I first noticed this through getting headaches, which I never get, and a strange burning feeling around the base of my skull - not good obviously. I raised the handlebars a little because I thought maybe I was cramping my neck. I tend to feel the bumps a little more, but this may be because my back is a bit sensitive. I also notice that I do less pulling with my arms on climbs. My legs provide the power, and my back feels it.

Any ideas about what I've done wrong? Has anyone else experienced this? I knew, as I brought the seat up, that it would take some time for my body to acclimate, but these sensations aren't what I normally associate with adjusting to something new.

My bike is a Trek 820 mountain bike from the 90's. It has a nice relaxed touring-type geometry. The bike shop had me straddle the bike - nothing else - for fit, but the frame size does seem about right. I stand 5'5" and have a 32" inseam. My arms are long; my torso is short. Any advice that anyone has will be appreciated. If you need more information from me, please ask.

xilios

Have you tried this site? https://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html
cheers

Sinksand

Thanks for pointing me back toward Sheldon's site. It is actually the place I went to when I first noticed the weird sensation in the area of my occipital bone. It made me think about the fact that maybe I was cramping my neck.

It seems probable, however, that I've altered my bike posture negatively. I was so happy to have the extra ease of pedaling that I likely sat up a little straighter, and then, as I noticed my back aching a little I tried to compensate by making it more rigid as I rode by sitting up straighter yet. This is my current theory. I hope the solution is as easy as slouching a bit more.

If it turns out that I can't get the proper arch to my back, can changing stems solve the problem?

Any other opinions?

NoReg

When you went through your repositioning effort did you determine whether you are on a correctly sized bike? One option would be to go for a test ride on a bike at a bike shop. Go to the kind of place where they let you take off if you leave your licence. When you find your dream touring bike, whip out the tape measure and take some measurements. Go back home and see if your bike allows you to reproduce that position.

Lucky you. I'm 6'1" and have 33" inseam. Not to weird for me, but you got the better deal. However I wouldn't be too stunned if with those measurements you "need" a custom frame. A tip-off would be if you find the ST length and TT length are quite different if you run one of the frame fitting programs. For instance I need a 56 ST, and a 61 TT. I ride a 58/58.

jcm

90's Trek 800 series? You probably have a racing type stem that is very long and relativley flat. Are the bars stock straight type? My guess is that as you've dialed in the saddle height, you've stretched your self forward into a forced head's up posture. That hurts after a while. Raising the bars isn't going to get you enough relief because those bikes had the long stems.

I had the same issues with my old MTB's. For me, getting the grips back and up was the key. I switched to North Road bars and an adjustable stem to dial 'em in just right. The back arch re-formed naturally and my pains went away.

NOTE: The ride posture is not bolt upright like a comfort bike or a 3-speed, due to the longer overall dimension of the old MTB's. It's just right. Similar to riding the tops on drop bars. Grips level with the saddle.

Sinksand

jcm - The bars are indeed the straight type - almost no bend in them at all. I'm taking the bike into a shop to change whatever is necessary so that it will fit right. I'll be sharing the advice from this forum. It does make sense, as jcm says, that I've "stretched myself forward into a forced heads up posture." I noticed the discomfort first in my lower skull/upper neck and then later in my lower back. How much did it cost you to make the adjustments jcm?

Bykemaster

Your seat is too high. Try lowering it a little at a time, 1/8 inch, until the discomfort goes away. hope that helps.

jcm

$16 for the Wald #8095 North Road bars. Also called Touring Bars by Wald The levers and shifters are off my older MTB and go right on with no problems. You may need to have your LBS lengthen some cables though. The adjustable stem is a cheapo $12 ProMax. Someday I'll go with a Nitto Technomic since I now know where I need things to be.
https://i16.tinypic.com/2dakoxh.jpg
Brooks B67 cost me about $90. Best saddle I ever used, especially with those bars. I have two of them.
https://i17.tinypic.com/2jcc64w.jpg
This is the whole look. You can see that the grips are level with the saddle.
https://i19.tinypic.com/2dqt3j7.jpg

With this setup you will have a natural wrist pronation, carpals aligned with the forearm, a slight crook at the elbow, and no hunched shoulders. Your back will arch from the pelvis and the pelvis will be rotated fairly upright on the saddle. A perfect reverse curve to absorb shock.

EDIT NOTE: Don't be surprised if the kids at the LBS don't know what North Roads are. I had to look them up myself in their catalog. Wald has them on their site. They're not the only bars that will work - I just like 'em.

CBolt

if your legs feel good, yours seat is not too high. whats happened is you've changed the seat height relative to the handlebars significantly. therefore bending your back lower to reach the handlebars, and tilting your head more upward. the neck pain will go away. its a common problem when people start riding in this more aggressive position. but i think your back pain needs a closer look. be sure that you are rotating your torso at the hips, not bending your back to reach the bars. a taller stem may be a big help.