Long Haul Trucker/Crossheck analysis
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Long Haul Trucker/Crossheck analysis
I found a baseball bat in my closet, so I figure I would take a whack at beating the dead horse.
Anyways, I have been wavering between the Crosscheck and LHT completes for some time now waiting for them to come into stock someday.
I've been reading up on these two bikes as much as possible, and people really tend to prefer one over the other. Stating that "the crosscheck is way more nimble" or "the long haul trucker is like a tank" etc.
Which lead me look into the geometries of the two bikes. Which aside from the chain stays, head tube height and bottom bracket drop are nearly identical.
Even the differences are fairly minimal. The chain stays on the LHT are an inch and a half longer and in a fixed position, where as the cross check is probably adjustable to be pretty close (within an inch of the LHT). On a 58 or 60cm frame seems this seems logical. On bmx bikes. I've ridden older 15inch (rear lenght) dirt jumping frames that are more stable, compared to 13.25 current street machines, while being noticeably different in handling again, it doesn't make the ride much better nor worse. The most noticeable difference is noticed in spinning (360s etc) and manuals (wheelies). But since these bikes are doing neither it seems like a slight difference, almost more of a foot-pannier foot clearance issue?
The bottom bracket height is a large determining factor on the two bikes. "long haul truckers are terrible for off road because of the low bb" "the cross check is very nimble and able to climb over rocks etc with no worry of pedal strike" blah blah blah. ANYWHO, the bottom bracket is ONLY .5 inches lower. Which is pretty insignificant. On my BMX bike it does vary handling slightly (on ramps and such), but a 11.25bb height on a 20 inch compared to a 11.75 is something 99% of people would not notice and being on smaller frames this is more amplified. So is the bottom bracket height REALLY that large of a determining factor?
And lastly the head tube height is taller on the LHT. Which means less spacers, or equal spacers and higher bars. Putting you in a more "comfortable" position.
Now the biggest difference from what I've noticed between the two is the set up. Obviously the LHT always has higher bars, triple cranks, larger tires etc. While the crosscheck has a lower bars, smaller tires, and a double crankset. (also note the fact LHT has extra water bottle braze ons and fork mounts for a front rack and a few other minor differences)
which leads me to wonder, are the impressions of the two bikes when compared based more off of the setup of the bikes, rather than the actual geometries. That a LHT may be more "nimble" with a lower stem/bar ratio and smaller smooth tires and the Crosscheck might be more "comfortable" and "clumsy" "stable" or however you look at it with larger knobbier tires?
Woooo, that was a lot more writing than I had planned. Hopefully some of you have some input to add to my curiosity. Also, if we collect some good input, this could help people decide in the future rather than just personal preference.
Thanks!
Mack
Anyways, I have been wavering between the Crosscheck and LHT completes for some time now waiting for them to come into stock someday.
I've been reading up on these two bikes as much as possible, and people really tend to prefer one over the other. Stating that "the crosscheck is way more nimble" or "the long haul trucker is like a tank" etc.
Which lead me look into the geometries of the two bikes. Which aside from the chain stays, head tube height and bottom bracket drop are nearly identical.
Even the differences are fairly minimal. The chain stays on the LHT are an inch and a half longer and in a fixed position, where as the cross check is probably adjustable to be pretty close (within an inch of the LHT). On a 58 or 60cm frame seems this seems logical. On bmx bikes. I've ridden older 15inch (rear lenght) dirt jumping frames that are more stable, compared to 13.25 current street machines, while being noticeably different in handling again, it doesn't make the ride much better nor worse. The most noticeable difference is noticed in spinning (360s etc) and manuals (wheelies). But since these bikes are doing neither it seems like a slight difference, almost more of a foot-pannier foot clearance issue?
The bottom bracket height is a large determining factor on the two bikes. "long haul truckers are terrible for off road because of the low bb" "the cross check is very nimble and able to climb over rocks etc with no worry of pedal strike" blah blah blah. ANYWHO, the bottom bracket is ONLY .5 inches lower. Which is pretty insignificant. On my BMX bike it does vary handling slightly (on ramps and such), but a 11.25bb height on a 20 inch compared to a 11.75 is something 99% of people would not notice and being on smaller frames this is more amplified. So is the bottom bracket height REALLY that large of a determining factor?
And lastly the head tube height is taller on the LHT. Which means less spacers, or equal spacers and higher bars. Putting you in a more "comfortable" position.
Now the biggest difference from what I've noticed between the two is the set up. Obviously the LHT always has higher bars, triple cranks, larger tires etc. While the crosscheck has a lower bars, smaller tires, and a double crankset. (also note the fact LHT has extra water bottle braze ons and fork mounts for a front rack and a few other minor differences)
which leads me to wonder, are the impressions of the two bikes when compared based more off of the setup of the bikes, rather than the actual geometries. That a LHT may be more "nimble" with a lower stem/bar ratio and smaller smooth tires and the Crosscheck might be more "comfortable" and "clumsy" "stable" or however you look at it with larger knobbier tires?
Woooo, that was a lot more writing than I had planned. Hopefully some of you have some input to add to my curiosity. Also, if we collect some good input, this could help people decide in the future rather than just personal preference.
Thanks!
Mack
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ride it? HAR HAR HAR!
I am selling my Steamroller for something a little more practical. I moved out of the big city, and I'm going to school in a small town. I would like something that is do all. There are miles upon miles of paved paths linking up to most areas of Minnesota. There are a ton of dirt path trails, no single track stuff, just path and back road cruising.
I use my bike everyday to commute to class and work. My Steamroller is okay for shorter commuting, but the longer rides kill me.
In the future I would love to do some touring, especially up north in the Duluth/Grand Marias area.
I have a problem with looking at things while riding, I love getting distracted and really enjoying the ride sight seeing etc, so the comfort/upright-ness of the LHT seems nice. But I also love to do some back path high speed riding as well which the Crosscheck may cater to more.
I am selling my Steamroller for something a little more practical. I moved out of the big city, and I'm going to school in a small town. I would like something that is do all. There are miles upon miles of paved paths linking up to most areas of Minnesota. There are a ton of dirt path trails, no single track stuff, just path and back road cruising.
I use my bike everyday to commute to class and work. My Steamroller is okay for shorter commuting, but the longer rides kill me.
In the future I would love to do some touring, especially up north in the Duluth/Grand Marias area.
I have a problem with looking at things while riding, I love getting distracted and really enjoying the ride sight seeing etc, so the comfort/upright-ness of the LHT seems nice. But I also love to do some back path high speed riding as well which the Crosscheck may cater to more.
#4
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Originally Posted by niknak
What do you want to do with the bike?
- it's nice to examine the differences of bike frames, but the purpose is the over-riding consideration...
- for example, i'd no sooner buy a CF road bike to do my grocery shopping than i would use a beach cruiser for a century...
#5
Senior Member
I'd go with the LHT because its components and design allow you to do everything. The bike comes with drop bars so you can still get all aero and blast down some paths and roads.
#6
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I own a '06 LHT and love it to death. I will own that bike for a very long time.
That being said, I've never ridden a Crosscheck and use the LHT for commuting/touring only. I have other bikes for other urges/needs. While I like the simplicity of the "one-bike-for-everything" mantra, it just isn't an idea that I've chosen to subscribe to.
That being said, I've never ridden a Crosscheck and use the LHT for commuting/touring only. I have other bikes for other urges/needs. While I like the simplicity of the "one-bike-for-everything" mantra, it just isn't an idea that I've chosen to subscribe to.
#7
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Originally Posted by sprintcarblue
I found a baseball bat in my closet, so I figure I would take a whack at beating the dead horse.
Anyways, I have been wavering between the Crosscheck and LHT completes for some time now waiting for them to come into stock someday.
I've been reading up on these two bikes as much as possible, and people really tend to prefer one over the other. Stating that "the crosscheck is way more nimble" or "the long haul trucker is like a tank" etc.
Which lead me look into the geometries of the two bikes. Which aside from the chain stays, head tube height and bottom bracket drop are nearly identical.
Even the differences are fairly minimal. The chain stays on the LHT are an inch and a half longer and in a fixed position, where as the cross check is probably adjustable to be pretty close (within an inch of the LHT). On a 58 or 60cm frame seems this seems logical. On bmx bikes. I've ridden older 15inch (rear lenght) dirt jumping frames that are more stable, compared to 13.25 current street machines, while being noticeably different in handling again, it doesn't make the ride much better nor worse. The most noticeable difference is noticed in spinning (360s etc) and manuals (wheelies). But since these bikes are doing neither it seems like a slight difference, almost more of a foot-pannier foot clearance issue?
The bottom bracket height is a large determining factor on the two bikes. "long haul truckers are terrible for off road because of the low bb" "the cross check is very nimble and able to climb over rocks etc with no worry of pedal strike" blah blah blah. ANYWHO, the bottom bracket is ONLY .5 inches lower. Which is pretty insignificant. On my BMX bike it does vary handling slightly (on ramps and such), but a 11.25bb height on a 20 inch compared to a 11.75 is something 99% of people would not notice and being on smaller frames this is more amplified. So is the bottom bracket height REALLY that large of a determining factor?
And lastly the head tube height is taller on the LHT. Which means less spacers, or equal spacers and higher bars. Putting you in a more "comfortable" position.
Now the biggest difference from what I've noticed between the two is the set up. Obviously the LHT always has higher bars, triple cranks, larger tires etc. While the crosscheck has a lower bars, smaller tires, and a double crankset. (also note the fact LHT has extra water bottle braze ons and fork mounts for a front rack and a few other minor differences)
which leads me to wonder, are the impressions of the two bikes when compared based more off of the setup of the bikes, rather than the actual geometries. That a LHT may be more "nimble" with a lower stem/bar ratio and smaller smooth tires and the Crosscheck might be more "comfortable" and "clumsy" "stable" or however you look at it with larger knobbier tires?
Woooo, that was a lot more writing than I had planned. Hopefully some of you have some input to add to my curiosity. Also, if we collect some good input, this could help people decide in the future rather than just personal preference.
Thanks!
Mack
Anyways, I have been wavering between the Crosscheck and LHT completes for some time now waiting for them to come into stock someday.
I've been reading up on these two bikes as much as possible, and people really tend to prefer one over the other. Stating that "the crosscheck is way more nimble" or "the long haul trucker is like a tank" etc.
Which lead me look into the geometries of the two bikes. Which aside from the chain stays, head tube height and bottom bracket drop are nearly identical.
Even the differences are fairly minimal. The chain stays on the LHT are an inch and a half longer and in a fixed position, where as the cross check is probably adjustable to be pretty close (within an inch of the LHT). On a 58 or 60cm frame seems this seems logical. On bmx bikes. I've ridden older 15inch (rear lenght) dirt jumping frames that are more stable, compared to 13.25 current street machines, while being noticeably different in handling again, it doesn't make the ride much better nor worse. The most noticeable difference is noticed in spinning (360s etc) and manuals (wheelies). But since these bikes are doing neither it seems like a slight difference, almost more of a foot-pannier foot clearance issue?
The bottom bracket height is a large determining factor on the two bikes. "long haul truckers are terrible for off road because of the low bb" "the cross check is very nimble and able to climb over rocks etc with no worry of pedal strike" blah blah blah. ANYWHO, the bottom bracket is ONLY .5 inches lower. Which is pretty insignificant. On my BMX bike it does vary handling slightly (on ramps and such), but a 11.25bb height on a 20 inch compared to a 11.75 is something 99% of people would not notice and being on smaller frames this is more amplified. So is the bottom bracket height REALLY that large of a determining factor?
And lastly the head tube height is taller on the LHT. Which means less spacers, or equal spacers and higher bars. Putting you in a more "comfortable" position.
Now the biggest difference from what I've noticed between the two is the set up. Obviously the LHT always has higher bars, triple cranks, larger tires etc. While the crosscheck has a lower bars, smaller tires, and a double crankset. (also note the fact LHT has extra water bottle braze ons and fork mounts for a front rack and a few other minor differences)
which leads me to wonder, are the impressions of the two bikes when compared based more off of the setup of the bikes, rather than the actual geometries. That a LHT may be more "nimble" with a lower stem/bar ratio and smaller smooth tires and the Crosscheck might be more "comfortable" and "clumsy" "stable" or however you look at it with larger knobbier tires?
Woooo, that was a lot more writing than I had planned. Hopefully some of you have some input to add to my curiosity. Also, if we collect some good input, this could help people decide in the future rather than just personal preference.
Thanks!
Mack
You need to look at the things that make one bike more nimble over another. You completely ignored head and seat angle as well as trail. The reason the LHT is more stable (slower steering) is that it has a slacker head angle and more trail. Steeper angles and less trail, like the Cross Check, make for quicker steering. The lower bottom bracket of the LHT, lowers the center of gravity, making the bike more stable. Even a half inch can be a lot. The longer stays and longer wheelbase of the LHT makes the bike more stable and smooths out the ride and allows for more heel room.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by cyccommute
You need to look at the things that make one bike more nimble over another. You completely ignored head and seat angle as well as trail. The reason the LHT is more stable (slower steering) is that it has a slacker head angle and more trail. Steeper angles and less trail, like the Cross Check, make for quicker steering. The lower bottom bracket of the LHT, lowers the center of gravity, making the bike more stable. Even a half inch can be a lot. The longer stays and longer wheelbase of the LHT makes the bike more stable and smooths out the ride and allows for more heel room.
I'll post a comparison sheet in a second so you don't have to look at naked guys again.
#9
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#10
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Another big difference between the two bikes (and I don't know this for sure), and it's not going to show up on spec. sheet, is likely the thickness of the frame. Most touring bikes like the LHT are constructed with thicker tubes to accommodate the extra weight of loaded touring, also making the bike less nimble/springy/alive when unloaded.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
crosscheck-58cm = 5.15 lbs (2.34 kg)
LHT-56cm = 4.88 lbs (2.2 kg)
Not a whole lot of difference in frame weights.
LHT-56cm = 4.88 lbs (2.2 kg)
Not a whole lot of difference in frame weights.
#12
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Are you planning on riding the bike for hours and hours, days to weeks in a row, with a heavy load, with steady and stable and reliable being more important than fast and exciting?
Are you planning on riding a lot, but mostly for commuting or fun or fitness rather than load-carrying?
How much do you weigh?
Have you decided what tyres you think you need?
I haven't ridden either, and both seem like great do-anything bikes. Probably best to test-ride both, with and without a load if possible. From what you're describing in your second post, sounds like Crosscheck might be the way to go.
Are you planning on riding a lot, but mostly for commuting or fun or fitness rather than load-carrying?
How much do you weigh?
Have you decided what tyres you think you need?
I haven't ridden either, and both seem like great do-anything bikes. Probably best to test-ride both, with and without a load if possible. From what you're describing in your second post, sounds like Crosscheck might be the way to go.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Let's see. I am a 6' 200-210 with a 34.5 inch pubic bone. I kind of decided on getting a 58cm frame. 50% of my riding is just leisurely riding, enjoying the scenery. The other 50% is more exciting faster, more aggressive riding. But because of my steamroller it was never for more than a 20 or 30 mile ride.
My goal is to do a lot of day trips on weekends, with some packing of things. I like to collect random objects for my sculptures and such, so it's nice to strap on various items that can sometimes be very bulky or heavy. One time I strapped a 30lb 1950's sewing machine body to a rack on my steamroller. Whcih was a nightmare.
Long term, well, within the year. I would like to do some longer touring, or...bike camping. I used to go on bmx trips with friends to different cities, but I want to explore nature now instead of urban exploration. Traveling on a bike seems like it would be such a great way to enjoy the journey instead of just driving from place to place.
Of course, it would have to be a daily commuter, year round. I rode my steamroller through winter to school everyday, even in a huge blizzard we got, which they shut down the school. That was a miserable ride.
Even with all that, I still have this urge to blast trails, and roads as fast as possible. I don't have an urge to tour de france at all. But who doesn't love going fast now and again?
The biggest problem I am having is NO shops here stock Surly stuff. Nobody here owns them, let alone my size. The shops here drastically under size people. They sold me a 53 steamroller, which is part of the reason I'm parting with it. I just don't really trust them and they are difficult to work with. That has been a huge factor in my deciding, thats why I am looking into this so thoroughly.
I'm also slightly concerned about the size, but I am fairly confident 58 would be sufficient. I set my steamroller on blocks so the stand over would be the same as the 58, and I had about an inch or inch and a half of clearance. I also rode a friends 58cm Pacer, and it felt amazing. A little to aggressive for my liking, but it felt good as far as length and standover.
My goal is to do a lot of day trips on weekends, with some packing of things. I like to collect random objects for my sculptures and such, so it's nice to strap on various items that can sometimes be very bulky or heavy. One time I strapped a 30lb 1950's sewing machine body to a rack on my steamroller. Whcih was a nightmare.
Long term, well, within the year. I would like to do some longer touring, or...bike camping. I used to go on bmx trips with friends to different cities, but I want to explore nature now instead of urban exploration. Traveling on a bike seems like it would be such a great way to enjoy the journey instead of just driving from place to place.
Of course, it would have to be a daily commuter, year round. I rode my steamroller through winter to school everyday, even in a huge blizzard we got, which they shut down the school. That was a miserable ride.
Even with all that, I still have this urge to blast trails, and roads as fast as possible. I don't have an urge to tour de france at all. But who doesn't love going fast now and again?
The biggest problem I am having is NO shops here stock Surly stuff. Nobody here owns them, let alone my size. The shops here drastically under size people. They sold me a 53 steamroller, which is part of the reason I'm parting with it. I just don't really trust them and they are difficult to work with. That has been a huge factor in my deciding, thats why I am looking into this so thoroughly.
I'm also slightly concerned about the size, but I am fairly confident 58 would be sufficient. I set my steamroller on blocks so the stand over would be the same as the 58, and I had about an inch or inch and a half of clearance. I also rode a friends 58cm Pacer, and it felt amazing. A little to aggressive for my liking, but it felt good as far as length and standover.
#14
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Have you considered a Bianchi Volpe? It seems like it also might be a good fit for the type of riding that you're describing.
#15
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crazy no shops stock Surly in Minnesota.... QBP is right there.....
Here's my take on both, having ridden both and own a LHT.
The crosscheck is a road bike that feels like a tank; the Long Haul Trucker IS a tank!
Here's my take on both, having ridden both and own a LHT.
The crosscheck is a road bike that feels like a tank; the Long Haul Trucker IS a tank!
#16
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I'm 6 foot 1, about 200 lbs. I sold a steel touring bike and replaced it with a titanium 'cross bike, and I'm really happy. (The fact that it is ti doesn't matter that much; I think I'd be equally pleased by a steel bike.)
I use the 'cross bike for everything, including touring (get a trailer or one of the better seatpost racks that can hold 50 lbs). I commute with it, and ride gravel paths, jump curbs and go for daylong rides with friends. And I tow my son's child trailer a few times a week with him in it.
Now both are good bikes. But I feel that a 'cross bike is more versatile. It'll be a bit smaller though because that's the geometry of 'cross bikes. I have a 57.5 top tube on my ti bike. (I'm getting a Surly crosscheck fork installed, instead of my Independent Fabrication fork, which has a short steerer.)
The 'cross bike with feel far more zippy and agile, but it will track well over distances too.
I've had/have all kinds of bikes, from recumbents to a Seven XC bike (for sale) and from old to newer road bikes. Touring bikes feel sluggish to me. And yet 'cross bikes -- which are far closer to touring bikes than to road bikes -- don't.
PS -- I believe the Soma is steel, check it out....
Incidentally, I would prefer ti or steel to aluminum, though it's the geometry and design, rather than the material, that makes a difference, all other things being equal....
I use the 'cross bike for everything, including touring (get a trailer or one of the better seatpost racks that can hold 50 lbs). I commute with it, and ride gravel paths, jump curbs and go for daylong rides with friends. And I tow my son's child trailer a few times a week with him in it.
Now both are good bikes. But I feel that a 'cross bike is more versatile. It'll be a bit smaller though because that's the geometry of 'cross bikes. I have a 57.5 top tube on my ti bike. (I'm getting a Surly crosscheck fork installed, instead of my Independent Fabrication fork, which has a short steerer.)
The 'cross bike with feel far more zippy and agile, but it will track well over distances too.
I've had/have all kinds of bikes, from recumbents to a Seven XC bike (for sale) and from old to newer road bikes. Touring bikes feel sluggish to me. And yet 'cross bikes -- which are far closer to touring bikes than to road bikes -- don't.
PS -- I believe the Soma is steel, check it out....
Incidentally, I would prefer ti or steel to aluminum, though it's the geometry and design, rather than the material, that makes a difference, all other things being equal....
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Bekologist
crazy no shops stock Surly in Minnesota.... QBP is right there.....
Here's my take on both, having ridden both and own a LHT.
The crosscheck is a road bike that feels like a tank; the Long Haul Trucker IS a tank!
Here's my take on both, having ridden both and own a LHT.
The crosscheck is a road bike that feels like a tank; the Long Haul Trucker IS a tank!
I started out wanting a Bianchi San Jose. Then I found the Volpe. Then I found the LHT/Crosscheck.... I just want to keep it pretty well under a grand.
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I am getting a LHT - It actually arrived at my LBS yesterday, but I'm out of town on a business trip so I won't pick it up until next weekend. I currently own two bikes, both steel frame, one being a new TREK 820 mountain bike, and the other an old lugged-steel-frame Ross 10-speed. I'm also a big guy - 6'-2-1/2", 255 lbs, 36" standover, 24" across the shoulders, 54" chest and 38" waist, with size 14 feet. I was looking for a new road bike with a triple chainwheel, and because of my size I was suspicious of all of these hi-tech carbon-fiber jobbies with 9 spokes per wheel. I checked the weight of the LHT frame and fork (~/= 7.35 lbs) vs. an aluminum/carbon fiber frame and fork from a big internet retailer (~/= 4.7 lbs) and figure that the less than 3 lb difference is probably less than one of my shoes!
I considered the Crosscheck, but wanted a low gear to match the low gear on my mountain bike (lots of steep hills where I live). I wanted a steel frame and "old-fashioned" features (like bar-end shifters), and Surly seems to be one of the few manufacturers that still appreciates the old stuff.
After looking at budget, and running the gear-inch calculations, and comparing features, it looked to me that the LHT was the ticket. The Crosscheck lost out in the gear-inch department. I may not like the wide tires on the LHT, but I can always replace them with something a little thinner.
Mine was ordered about a month ago, and according to Surly's web site the LHT's just arrived in stock last Friday. They also said that they're selling fast, so if you want one, better hurry! BTW, mine, with tax, etc., was just a smidge over $1000.00. That price included $25.00 for plain old block pedals just to get it out the door, but I found a set of MKS pedals for toe clips, and a set of XL MKS toe clips (I told you I like old stuff), and dropped them off to the LBS last week to put on the LHT.
I considered the Crosscheck, but wanted a low gear to match the low gear on my mountain bike (lots of steep hills where I live). I wanted a steel frame and "old-fashioned" features (like bar-end shifters), and Surly seems to be one of the few manufacturers that still appreciates the old stuff.
After looking at budget, and running the gear-inch calculations, and comparing features, it looked to me that the LHT was the ticket. The Crosscheck lost out in the gear-inch department. I may not like the wide tires on the LHT, but I can always replace them with something a little thinner.
Mine was ordered about a month ago, and according to Surly's web site the LHT's just arrived in stock last Friday. They also said that they're selling fast, so if you want one, better hurry! BTW, mine, with tax, etc., was just a smidge over $1000.00. That price included $25.00 for plain old block pedals just to get it out the door, but I found a set of MKS pedals for toe clips, and a set of XL MKS toe clips (I told you I like old stuff), and dropped them off to the LBS last week to put on the LHT.
#19
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The local shop has a 58 LHT and Crosscheck on item watch for me. They said they would call as soon as QBP has them in stock, which they haven't called me yet (which I'm glad since I am undecided!) Which they said they would give it to me for an even $900. But it would essentially be right out of the box, but I have built pretty much every bike I've owned in the last 5 years so it is okay.
I definitely do agree with you about how classy the LHT's are! They just look so simple and clean. They don't have that "road bikeish" stance that pretty much every bike looks like now which I thoroughly enjoy.
The triple crankset is a definite plus on the LHT too. I live in a very hilly region of Minnesota. I ride my fixed gear up and down the hills, but my head always feels like it's about ready to pop off afterwards.
If the crosscheck was offered in the triple crankset i'd be much more apt to opt for that. I really don't feel like replacing the cranks on a crosscheck, which is probably my biggest turn off.
Also, I found an early nineties Trek 820 in my girlfriends parents garage! So she is bringing that best down to me today. I am real excited. So any off-roading excursions will probably be on that now and it will probably get more of the snow/bad weather commuting. Not to mention it will be my loaner bike when I sell my steamroller until I can get whatever I decide on!
I definitely do agree with you about how classy the LHT's are! They just look so simple and clean. They don't have that "road bikeish" stance that pretty much every bike looks like now which I thoroughly enjoy.
The triple crankset is a definite plus on the LHT too. I live in a very hilly region of Minnesota. I ride my fixed gear up and down the hills, but my head always feels like it's about ready to pop off afterwards.
If the crosscheck was offered in the triple crankset i'd be much more apt to opt for that. I really don't feel like replacing the cranks on a crosscheck, which is probably my biggest turn off.
Also, I found an early nineties Trek 820 in my girlfriends parents garage! So she is bringing that best down to me today. I am real excited. So any off-roading excursions will probably be on that now and it will probably get more of the snow/bad weather commuting. Not to mention it will be my loaner bike when I sell my steamroller until I can get whatever I decide on!
#20
Mad bike riding scientist
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Originally Posted by sprintcarblue
And it's too late, I already went over there. Ewwwwwwww!
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#21
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What kind of camping gear do you have for touring? If you don't have top shelf gear, it's worth spending your money on. Get nice panniers for the bike and a good backpack as well. It's an investment that will last you for years and years.
As far as a new bike--- try cleaning up the old Trek 820 and riding that. It's a great commuter/ commuter bike. Not real fast, however. Keep your eyes open for an old road bike for fast riding.
As far as a new bike--- try cleaning up the old Trek 820 and riding that. It's a great commuter/ commuter bike. Not real fast, however. Keep your eyes open for an old road bike for fast riding.
#22
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I actually don't have any camping gear or things like that really. I have a decent sleeping bag...that's about it really. I have access to most materials I'd need, though. I've never had a chance to really do much riding than cruising around with my steamroller. That's why with this purchase I'm trying to not only buy what I need for the moment, but make a long term decision so I can do a bit of everything (and hopefully get more into touring) until I have the money and space to collect way too many bikes for my own good.
I just got that 820 today. MAN that thing is a tank. I'm replacing the bars and levers, and the detanglers and stuff are pretty hagard, so I will single speed it for now. It's not too far of a commute to school and I'm used to my fixed gear so coasting will be a welcome addition for now.
I just got that 820 today. MAN that thing is a tank. I'm replacing the bars and levers, and the detanglers and stuff are pretty hagard, so I will single speed it for now. It's not too far of a commute to school and I'm used to my fixed gear so coasting will be a welcome addition for now.
#23
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
And it's too late, I already went over there. Ewwwwwwww!
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Originally Posted by sprintcarblue
Ride it? HAR HAR HAR!
I am selling my Steamroller for something a little more practical. I moved out of the big city, and I'm going to school in a small town. I would like something that is do all. There are miles upon miles of paved paths linking up to most areas of Minnesota. There are a ton of dirt path trails, no single track stuff, just path and back road cruising.
I use my bike everyday to commute to class and work. My Steamroller is okay for shorter commuting, but the longer rides kill me.
I am selling my Steamroller for something a little more practical. I moved out of the big city, and I'm going to school in a small town. I would like something that is do all. There are miles upon miles of paved paths linking up to most areas of Minnesota. There are a ton of dirt path trails, no single track stuff, just path and back road cruising.
I use my bike everyday to commute to class and work. My Steamroller is okay for shorter commuting, but the longer rides kill me.
- Longer chainstays for less heel strike - I have big feet
- More stable geometry is better for trailer towing
- Front rack and 3rd water bottle braze-ons - carrying capacity (3 bottles is nice in NC summers, front rack for balancing larger loads and general cargo flexibility)
- It's built like a tank, and so am I (6'4", down to 255lb, was 265lb when I spec'd the bike)
- More comfortable/upright geometry (I want to go reasonably fast, but will never race it)
- I will take it on paved and unpaved trails, but nothing particularly technical
In terms of BB height - I'm running giant pedals (Speedplay Drillium) but also fat tires (700x40c), and have had exactly one pedal strike when I was pedaling quickly through a sharp corner. It was a non-event, and it was clearly me not paying enough attention. There was no damage to me, the bike, or the pedal.
#25
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good points. I definitely will never be racing anyone. I usually ride by myself at my own pace. sometimes i want to go fast, others just cruise.
I am a bigger guy, although I have particularly small feet for my size (10's!?) So heel strike probably will not be an issue.
I am a bigger guy, although I have particularly small feet for my size (10's!?) So heel strike probably will not be an issue.