I would urge caution, patience, and restraint here. You've only had the bike a couple of weeks. If you have fit issues, the bike shop should be helping you resolve them.
Most road bikes are delivered with the bars too low for actual human beings' comfort. And whether the factory stem is the correct length for you is a matter of pure chance. It is normal and expected that the process of fitting a new road bike will probably involve some stem swapping.
Let me repeat that. Normal and expected.
Many shops do take the approach of lending (not selling, lending) an adjustable stem so that you can experiment with bar height. This can be helpful, but the problem is that as you raise the bar you also reduce the extension, whereas with stem swapping you can change the extensions and rise independently.
Better to do a proper bike fitting, which I gather never happened.
One of the primary reasons to buy an expensive brand-name bike from a specialty shop is to get a bike that fits. The fitting is part of the deal.
Personally, my approach is to set the bar height so that I'm comfortable in the drops. That means the tops of the bars are higher that is fashionable -- almost the same height as the saddle -- but if you can't use the drops there's no point in having them. But most of the time my hands are on the hoods or on the tops.
The location of the levers can make a big difference. I have mine fairly high on the curve, so that the bar and the hood form a continuous, comfortable curved platform for the hand.
But if that's where you're hands will be, the stem extension must be chosen with that in mind. It's all part of the fitting.
So before you go making $300+ worth of changes to a brand new bike, get back to the shop and ask for the fitting that should have been done before you ever left the shop with the bike to begin with.
Training: 2002 Fuji Roubaix Pro (105 triple)
Commuting/Daytripping: 2001 Airborne Carpe Diem (Ultegra/XTR, touring wheels)
Commuting/Touring: 2000 Novara Randonee (Sora/Tiagra/LX, fenders, lights)