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Old 04-15-09, 12:40 PM   #1
hadleman
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Is re-gearing necessary

Hey all. I have an '07 Fuji Touring bike and am going on my first couple loaded tours this summer. I've seen a a few posts recommending re-gearing bikes even lower, but is this necessary? And if it is, what is your gearing? Thanks
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Old 04-15-09, 12:51 PM   #2
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What is your current gearing? This question is of interest to me too.
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Old 04-15-09, 12:53 PM   #3
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What gears you like is one of the ultimate YMMV issues. For touring I wouldn't want a low any higher than about 22 inches. I'd prefer to have something below 20 inches.

There are plenty of people who tour with higher gears, and I think one poster on BF has gears that go down to a 14 inch low.

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Old 04-15-09, 01:01 PM   #4
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FWIW I don't think you need to go too crazy; I've done some pretty intense hills with a low of 27 gear inches. I don't see much point in gearing that is so low that it's at walking speed. Depends in part on your fitness and on total weight as well.
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Old 04-15-09, 01:39 PM   #5
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It depends almost entirely on where you will be touring, how mountainous and what the grades are like. Some hills in the east are actually worse than the west. You might be just fine with what you have.
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Old 04-15-09, 03:12 PM   #6
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The current, stock gearing on my bike is 30-42-52 for the crankset and 11-32 for the cassette. I'm going to be touring over Mt. Hood pass on my first tour, and on my second tour I'll be going from here (Oregon) to Montana and down through Yellowstone.
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Old 04-15-09, 03:23 PM   #7
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if that is the case.. it sure wouldn't hurt swapping out the 30 for a 26. the cassette isn't going to help much going to a 34 but the ring sure will.
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Old 04-15-09, 08:42 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by hadleman View Post
The current, stock gearing on my bike is 30-42-52 for the crankset and 11-32 for the cassette. I'm going to be touring over Mt. Hood pass on my first tour, and on my second tour I'll be going from here (Oregon) to Montana and down through Yellowstone.
This is the same gearing my Sherpa came with.
Not only is it totally inadequate for a loaded bike in the prairie wind it will really suck on a long mountain upgrade.
Re-gearing will give you more options in the middle, not just the low (which your present crank does not have anyway). A 52/42/30 is nice for a road bike, but why these are coming on touring bikes is beyond me.
In the "olde" days of my youth all the touring bikes had at least a 26 inner ring.
Think of it this way. When was the last time you were in the 52-11. Or even close to it with any amount of weight on the bike?
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Old 04-15-09, 08:51 PM   #9
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Thanks for the replies guys.

I've seen suggestions for a 50-38-26 cassette floating around the internet. Do you guys agree with that?

Also, how much does this usually cost to do at a shop?
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Old 04-15-09, 08:52 PM   #10
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52-11 is a big gear even for a road bike! Compact crank set ups are only 50-11.

I've thought about this bike, but I have to factor in the price of a new set of chainrings.

I wonder what they are thinking? I mean, it's billed as a touring bike that comes with a rack....
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Old 04-15-09, 08:57 PM   #11
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Go to Sheldon Brown's gear chart and look at your possibilities for gearing. Its good advice to sacrifice some top end (won't use that big chain ring much) and make sure you can get down for the grunt up the hill (Previous posts have made good calls). tom
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Old 04-15-09, 09:22 PM   #12
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Thanks for the replies guys.

I've seen suggestions for a 50-38-26 cassette floating around the internet. Do you guys agree with that?

Also, how much does this usually cost to do at a shop?
I would consider a 48/36/26 the minimum for touring use.
I selected this gearing as I live on the prairies. But it will have some shortcomings in the mountains.
I have to balance my touring and commuting needs as I use the bike for both.
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Old 04-15-09, 10:00 PM   #13
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Thanks for the replies guys.

I've seen suggestions for a 50-38-26 cassette floating around the internet. Do you guys agree with that?

Also, how much does this usually cost to do at a shop?
I assume you're referring to the crankset, not the cassette.

I have to agree with the posters above -- something like 48-36-26 (or close) is the right idea. Your bike will be happier overall; it's not just getting a "lower low," you'll also find yourself using more gears instead of just ignoring the big ring for all but downhills.

As for cost -- the labor to swap out cranksets, etc., should be pretty reasonable - $25-30, I would think.

If you buy a new crankset, pay for installation, and sell the old one it's not that expensive to upgrade.
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Old 04-16-09, 04:41 AM   #14
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if that is the case.. it sure wouldn't hurt swapping out the 30 for a 26. the cassette isn't going to help much going to a 34 but the ring sure will.
I used a 26 on mine and did the TA without a problem. A bit lower would have been nice in the Appalachians, but it was quite adequate in the Cascades and Rockies. Ideally, I would spend $80 or so on a Sugino XD600 crank (that is what I did), but just putting a 26 on the current crank is probably OK. A 24 might even be nice depending on your preferences.
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