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  1. #1
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    Changing cyclocross gearing for touring

    So, I think i decided on this cyclocross bike for my next ride. I plan to use it mostly on the road, some trails, and I plan on doing some touring also. I am a poor college student so i am trying to get the most out of one bike as possible and i think the cyclocross is what i'm looking for. Though the gearing that comes with it probably won't be the best for loaded touring.

    Heres the drivetrain it comes with:

    Crankset FSA Omega MegaEXO External Bearing, CNC 36/46T Rings
    Bottom Bracket FSA MegaEXO External cartridge bearing
    Front Derailleur Shimano 105
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Ultegra RD6600
    Shifters Shimano 105 10-speed (20 gears total)
    Cassette/Freewheel 10-speed, 12-25T


    What would you recommend for getting a wider gear range? MTB cassete and rear dr, triple crank and new front dr, I thought i read somewhere that you can use a MTB crankset, with the smallest ring and middle ring, and not have to change the derailluer... Any advice is appreciated, thank you.

  2. #2
    Senior Member ricohman's Avatar
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    If you really think that you will be happier on the CX.......
    Anyway, the Shimano trekking crankset is a very nice piece. I just replaced the road triple on my Sherpa with it and I couldn't be happier.
    But you will need more gearing out back to take full advantage of it. Then you will need an FD and RD. Then you will find the CX bike doesn't have enough eyelets if it has any at all so that means pulling a trailer.
    See where I'm going with this?
    A touring bike rides just fine when your not touring. I commute on mine daily.

  3. #3
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    It does have eyelets, for rear rack, and eyelets on the fork ends so i'm not sure what kinda rack i could get on the front, though i did a tour with only a rear rack before and i think i can live with that. One of the reasons i'm looking for cx over touring is because of the bottom bracket height, as i plan on doing some trail riding.

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    Changing the rear dr to an LX long cage, the rear cassette to a 12-30 or 12-32 IRD 10-spd and the 36 front ring to a 34 (marginal gain there) will get you up all but the steepest hills (if you are reasonably strong).

  5. #5
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    I agree about the choice of bike. Get a touring frame with all the eyelets.... and most important ..... long chainstays(46 cm or more)
    A LHT is by far the most inexpensive frame out there. Then, get any drivetrain you want. I think even the LHT complete bike is a great bargain.

    Is the weight an issue? I hope not...... it's not an issue for recreational bikes... at all. For a road racing pro.... okay.

    There's other bikes.. I just use that as an example. One biggest mistakes people make is getting a frame with too short of chainstays. Do some research to see what's out there. The world is yours

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    is the only benefit of long chainstays in touring for pannier/heel clearance?

  7. #7
    Professional Fuss-Budget Bacciagalupe's Avatar
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    As someone who uses a cross bike for the same things as you're planning , I think it's a good choice, as long as you aren't planning to do particularly technical off-road riding or really fast group rides. Non-racing cross bikes are made to be versatile, and people have used them for things like touring (including extended tours), commuting and general road use for a long time.

    Not sure which bike you're looking at, but two to consider are the Specialized Tricross Sport Triple ($1500, 50-39-30 x 11-32, carbon fiber fork, front and rear rack eyelets, aluminum frame, STI levers) or the Surly Cross Check (steel frame, bar-end shifters). The Surly can be set up as a standard double, compact double, or a triple; you'd want to change the cassette as well, but many LBS's will swap out parts when you buy it.

    Keep in mind that the stock tires will be cross tires (wide and semi-knobby) so you'll have to swap them out; and the rims on a cross bike will probably have a minimum width of 28c's.

    Otherwise, I'd at least up the cassette to an 11-32 or 11-34 with a long cage RD. Might want to test that out before upgrading the front, but chances are you will want something around a 30 or lower.

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    Thanks for the responses.

    Another question..... the fork has eyelets on the fork end, but no eyelets in the middle of the fork like a touring specific fork. Are there racks that will work with the fork end eyelets, and attach to the cantilever mounts or something?

  9. #9
    Professional Fuss-Budget Bacciagalupe's Avatar
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    Sure, Old Man Mountain (among others) make racks that mount on the brake bosses.

    Trailer is also an option. If you don't have racks and bags, the cost is about the same.

  10. #10
    Senior Member ricohman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 530farm View Post
    Thanks for the responses.

    Another question..... the fork has eyelets on the fork end, but no eyelets in the middle of the fork like a touring specific fork. Are there racks that will work with the fork end eyelets, and attach to the cantilever mounts or something?
    The eyelets on the bike in question may be for fenders. But you can use them for racks. Touring bikes have double eyelets and braze-on fittings on the rear seat stays and front forks.

  11. #11
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    Sounds a lot like a fuji Cross Comp. Great bike at a reasonable price. Pop some touring tires on there and pull a BOB. With the cross crank, all you need to do to get some lower gears would be to put a 12-27 cassette on it if you feel you it.

  12. #12
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    Poor college students can't afford to be changing entire drive trains. And if you're not doing that much touring, makes more sense to get a cyclocross and just make do for the tours than vice versa.

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