rebuild or new wheelset?
06-10-09, 01:02 PM
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rebuild or new wheelset?
lets just say i dont trust my rear wheel. popped a spoke today. i will be going on tour across the country in mid july. current rear wheel is a mavic cxp22 and shimano sora 32 hole with junk stock spokes. should i relace with new spokes or should i move on to a 36 spoke wheel and new rim/hub? i weigh around 190 plus ~40lbs of gear. any advice appreciated
Last edited by reptilezs; 06-10-09 at 02:33 PM.
06-10-09, 01:28 PM
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In that same position, I got new 36 spoke wheels built. I've never regretted it.
06-10-09, 01:36 PM
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I was only riding across state and had new wheels built once the stock wheels began to cough out spokes.
06-10-09, 02:01 PM
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This is a no brainer. If you feel ok about the rim and build your own wheels you'll be starting off with something much better. If you don't build your own wheels just buy a new one.
06-10-09, 02:15 PM
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First are you loaded touring or running behind a truck? Did the spoke pop at the hub?
My bike all up is #360 +, the plus being food water, anything I pick up along the way. I use 36 spoke 700Cs. but have run the same numbers on my MTB with 32 spoke wheels. I don't think you are likely too heavy.
The main issues are : quality components that work properly together, correctly assembled to max tension.
Rims are important in allowing max tension. I don't know the rims you have but reviews indicate it is a heavy road rim possibly for training. Shouldn't be blowing up spokes unloaded, if that is your current situation.
Spokes do not need to be designer. Straight gage may not be the best, but I don't break them just running along, even some minor accidents. Far more important is the fit to the hub, and the max tension. Hub fit can frustrate even an assembly of the most expensive parts. Big name wheels are basically a guarantee that the wheel was properly built, with tested components, and a hope that the manufacturer didn't change any specs and a bad combination has come into being. A shop that does serious business, like demanding couriers, should know the deal.
You didn't mention your hubs but LX etc... shouldn't give any problems.
Jobst Brandt the guy who wrote the book on wheels says that spokes should not be replaced when rims wear out. Just keep the same parts in play. If a known quality spoke in a quality configuration goes, just replace it. The assumption is that the spokes that don't break even as rims are worn out are the proven ones and may last virtually indefinitely. So the question with your wheel is, assuming the rim is good, is the wheel settling in; are some of the parts junk; do some of the parts not fit together; where they poorly assembled. While I wouldn't probably run a 700c 32 spoke wheel loaded XC, some do. If you move to a heavier wheel what ensures the quality and compatibility issues are dealt with? How would that be different than just working out the problems with the wheels you have?
One option if you have a serious local shop is to just have the wheel properly tensioned and stress relieved. You can do it yourself, and that might be something to try if you are planing to toss it in the alternative.
My bike all up is #360 +, the plus being food water, anything I pick up along the way. I use 36 spoke 700Cs. but have run the same numbers on my MTB with 32 spoke wheels. I don't think you are likely too heavy.
The main issues are : quality components that work properly together, correctly assembled to max tension.
Rims are important in allowing max tension. I don't know the rims you have but reviews indicate it is a heavy road rim possibly for training. Shouldn't be blowing up spokes unloaded, if that is your current situation.
Spokes do not need to be designer. Straight gage may not be the best, but I don't break them just running along, even some minor accidents. Far more important is the fit to the hub, and the max tension. Hub fit can frustrate even an assembly of the most expensive parts. Big name wheels are basically a guarantee that the wheel was properly built, with tested components, and a hope that the manufacturer didn't change any specs and a bad combination has come into being. A shop that does serious business, like demanding couriers, should know the deal.
You didn't mention your hubs but LX etc... shouldn't give any problems.
Jobst Brandt the guy who wrote the book on wheels says that spokes should not be replaced when rims wear out. Just keep the same parts in play. If a known quality spoke in a quality configuration goes, just replace it. The assumption is that the spokes that don't break even as rims are worn out are the proven ones and may last virtually indefinitely. So the question with your wheel is, assuming the rim is good, is the wheel settling in; are some of the parts junk; do some of the parts not fit together; where they poorly assembled. While I wouldn't probably run a 700c 32 spoke wheel loaded XC, some do. If you move to a heavier wheel what ensures the quality and compatibility issues are dealt with? How would that be different than just working out the problems with the wheels you have?
One option if you have a serious local shop is to just have the wheel properly tensioned and stress relieved. You can do it yourself, and that might be something to try if you are planing to toss it in the alternative.
06-10-09, 02:24 PM
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Get a new wheel, 36 spoke with a quality rim such as the Velocity Dyad or Mavic A719.
06-10-09, 02:32 PM
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First are you loaded touring or running behind a truck? Did the spoke pop at the hub?
My bike all up is #360 +, the plus being food water, anything I pick up along the way. I use 36 spoke 700Cs. but have run the same numbers on my MTB with 32 spoke wheels. I don't think you are likely too heavy.
The main issues are : quality components that work properly together, correctly assembled to max tension.
Rims are important in allowing max tension. I don't know the rims you have but reviews indicate it is a heavy road rim possibly for training. Shouldn't be blowing up spokes unloaded, if that is your current situation.
Spokes do not need to be designer. Straight gage may not be the best, but I don't break them just running along, even some minor accidents. Far more important is the fit to the hub, and the max tension. Hub fit can frustrate even an assembly of the most expensive parts. Big name wheels are basically a guarantee that the wheel was properly built, with tested components, and a hope that the manufacturer didn't change any specs and a bad combination has come into being. A shop that does serious business, like demanding couriers, should know the deal.
You didn't mention your hubs but LX etc... shouldn't give any problems.
Jobst Brandt the guy who wrote the book on wheels says that spokes should not be replaced when rims wear out. Just keep the same parts in play. If a known quality spoke in a quality configuration goes, just replace it. The assumption is that the spokes that don't break even as rims are worn out are the proven ones and may last virtually indefinitely. So the question with your wheel is, assuming the rim is good, is the wheel settling in; are some of the parts junk; do some of the parts not fit together; where they poorly assembled. While I wouldn't probably run a 700c 32 spoke wheel loaded XC, some do. If you move to a heavier wheel what ensures the quality and compatibility issues are dealt with? How would that be different than just working out the problems with the wheels you have?
One option if you have a serious local shop is to just have the wheel properly tensioned and stress relieved. You can do it yourself, and that might be something to try if you are planing to toss it in the alternative.
My bike all up is #360 +, the plus being food water, anything I pick up along the way. I use 36 spoke 700Cs. but have run the same numbers on my MTB with 32 spoke wheels. I don't think you are likely too heavy.
The main issues are : quality components that work properly together, correctly assembled to max tension.
Rims are important in allowing max tension. I don't know the rims you have but reviews indicate it is a heavy road rim possibly for training. Shouldn't be blowing up spokes unloaded, if that is your current situation.
Spokes do not need to be designer. Straight gage may not be the best, but I don't break them just running along, even some minor accidents. Far more important is the fit to the hub, and the max tension. Hub fit can frustrate even an assembly of the most expensive parts. Big name wheels are basically a guarantee that the wheel was properly built, with tested components, and a hope that the manufacturer didn't change any specs and a bad combination has come into being. A shop that does serious business, like demanding couriers, should know the deal.
You didn't mention your hubs but LX etc... shouldn't give any problems.
Jobst Brandt the guy who wrote the book on wheels says that spokes should not be replaced when rims wear out. Just keep the same parts in play. If a known quality spoke in a quality configuration goes, just replace it. The assumption is that the spokes that don't break even as rims are worn out are the proven ones and may last virtually indefinitely. So the question with your wheel is, assuming the rim is good, is the wheel settling in; are some of the parts junk; do some of the parts not fit together; where they poorly assembled. While I wouldn't probably run a 700c 32 spoke wheel loaded XC, some do. If you move to a heavier wheel what ensures the quality and compatibility issues are dealt with? How would that be different than just working out the problems with the wheels you have?
One option if you have a serious local shop is to just have the wheel properly tensioned and stress relieved. You can do it yourself, and that might be something to try if you are planing to toss it in the alternative.
06-10-09, 09:23 PM
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I don't know if I have ever run those name spokes either. But if you feel your wheels are compromised and are going to worry about it, then you need to do something about it, and those wheels sound light for what you will be undertaking. Good luck on your trip!
Peak tension is not determined with a gage or in comparison to another wheel. It comes from raising the tension until the wheel starts to taco, then truing it, stress relieving it, and re-truing it. Something like that. I only do it every five years or so and always have to dig out my book! Once you have been through the process then you can set a second wheel with a tension gage, and you can run consistency checks with the gage. For that reason a lot of people say a gage isn't much use to the occasional wheel builder.
Peak tension is not determined with a gage or in comparison to another wheel. It comes from raising the tension until the wheel starts to taco, then truing it, stress relieving it, and re-truing it. Something like that. I only do it every five years or so and always have to dig out my book! Once you have been through the process then you can set a second wheel with a tension gage, and you can run consistency checks with the gage. For that reason a lot of people say a gage isn't much use to the occasional wheel builder.
