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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    LHT-gear shift problems

    I have just had by new bike for several days but notice that one click of the bar end shifter doesn't mean one gear change like it did with my thumb shifters on my trek bike. Is this normal? I notice that between the second and third back ring I can't seem to get the chain to stay in the same place. I have to kinda tweak the bar end for it to stay in place. No problem witht the other gears. I was just wondering.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    riders:Schwinn Continental ('80), Specialized Crossroads Sport ('07), Schwinn Super Sport (73), Schwinn Superior (76), Projects: Schwinn Sprint ('74), Trek 800 & Schwinn Continental ('71)
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    I have noticed on index shifters, it is critical for the highest gear setting (the small cog), and index set to match the position, for the cable to be tight and the derailleur is correctly centered under the ring. This would be the starting reference point for each additional shift.

    I have no experience with Bar End shifters, yet have been studying the pro and cons for a 1976 Superior project, to replace the down tube shifters with BE. Many have indicated they prefer set the BE for friction even on Index spacing. I am suspecting this due to the short cable pull of the BE. For me that made some sense.

    On a tour ride last summer, a couple I road with part of the time had BE on his LHT and it seemed he was trimming the rear shifter frequently.

    Being new, I would examine the cable and determine if it set tight on the top position - smallest cog.

  3. #3
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    It's normal for shift cables to stretch a bit for the first few weeks. Wherever you bought your bike, they should offer free adjustments for a couple of months, because of this.

    You can do it yourself, too. There's an adjusting knob, a small black knurled thing, on your rear derailleur where the cable housing enters the derailleur. (Some shifting systems have this adjuster on the shifter, or even both places.) Turn this adjuster 1/4 turn -- CCW to "tighten" the cable, CW to "loosen" it. With a new bike, you probably want to "tighten" it, and maybe 1/2 or 3/4 turn. But it's best to go 1/4 turn at a time, and test ride.

    It's also normal, in the span of a 2000-mile tour, to have to adjust this thing once in a while. So it's worthwhile to learn how to adjust it yourself.

    -- Mark

  4. #4
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    Thanks fellows. My LBS offers free service for a year. I want to do my own adjustments though. Thanks for the advice.

  5. #5
    Professional Fuss-Budget Bacciagalupe's Avatar
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    Yeah, just the regular new bikeness. Check the brake cables while you're at it.

  6. #6
    Senior Member bhchdh's Avatar
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    Yea easy adjustments check out parktool.com or sheldon Browns pages for help.

  7. #7
    weirdo
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhchdh View Post
    check out parktool.com or sheldon Browns pages for help.
    +10
    If you want to learn how to take care of what needs taking care of on your own (an excellent idea), those two sites are invaluable.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    And...uh...

    Make sure the cables are clear of any obstructions. Like you didn't accidentally velcro them into your frame pump when you put it back. I...uh...hear that can cause random issues with shifting.

    Not that I'd ever do that or anything.

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