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  1. #1
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    Im going on a long ride, need a decent bike for cheap,any thoughts on this bike??

    Im planning on riding the pacific coast starting in cali down to tierra del fuego, expenses dictate that a new touring bike is out of the option, so im currently looking at my options...so im thinking mountain bike front suss with a BOB, or possibly convert an old mountain bike, been diggin in the archives and it seems like a feasible option.im on a budget of around 400 pounds excluding racks or BOB... any suggestions?

    Anyway, it seems abit cheeky, but i thought i'll ask anyway, seems like there are alot of knowledgeable folk on here, just seen this bike for sale, could this do the job? what upgrades would you go for? photo should be attached

    would appreciate any input, cheers

    its going for 220pounds uk by the way, here's the info.....

    form follows function at every turn. it's been built with only 2 things in mind:

    1) to not let you down.

    and 2) to be easy to fix up once it has let you down

    everything is the most universal fitting and availability but of the strongest quality (deore LX – plenty of here – the expedition stuff of choice – strong and serviceable) - everything's been checked, serviced, cleaned and greased up to b**gery

    i've touched the frame up roughly with hamerite - it's a Saracen conquest (c. 1985) 531 all terain frame forks and stays. (steel frame essential - strong and can be welded - will dent but not snap unlike allu) - it aslo has horizontal dropouts so if you loose half your chain, chain rings and sprockets and both mechs - you can can still set it up as a single speed and carry on (also horizontal dropouts will take the older style non hanger mechs). these older MTBs were built essentially like 26" full tourers - v. long wheel base, comfortable posture - and long rake for stability, proper pannier points

    26" wheels - essential for the 3rd world availability of parts- alloy weinman rims - strong single skin is more likely to dent then snap and can be bent back in postion.

    square spline serviceable cup and cone BB

    - also BB bracket drilled and tapped and i've put a short bolt in (you can remove and regrease the BB with no dismantling like the old 50s BBs)

    steel chainrings (sugino oval large and medium - NOS shimano biopace 48/36/28 if memory serves), less likely to wear or bend but wil bend back if they do.

    stem is 1" quill but i've set up with an steel adapter to allow the use of 1/8" ahead stems so you have choice of all kinds of stem - i've put on a nice retro open face box section steel stem

    brakes –(all new cables) all the way along i've used the adjusters and parts with the slits in to allow the cable out without undoing - also the levers will pull enough for V brakes if you need to fit them (extra cable is left on (and sealed up out of the way) to allow any emergency brake fittings to take place easily.) also the mudguards are held on by the fixing bolts of twin pull weinaman calipers (the calipers will come with the bike - if you need to fit them you can actually run 700 or 27" wheel in the frame - another universality feature)

    gears (all new cables and outers)- simple levers shifter - most reliable - and the rear will switch from STI to friction to allow you to go on even if they start to mess up.

    there is a versatile extra emergency small cut down road lever just under the 531 sticker - it will operate the front mech (whether top or bottom pull) or the rear mech from that position - as (lever is cut down to avoid legs) is for the top pull or on the either side and cable under BB for bottom pull or rear - it has cable stop integral to it so can be transfered on the bars as front or rear shifter (and conceivably as a brake lever) - the way the lever and stop relate to the band-on can be rotated in 90 degre intervals so you can always find a way of setting it with or without the stop.

    QR on seat post to allow you drop it quickly for others to ride - or for descending a big hill. Also QR on the wheels – apart from the speed of taking it on and off – QR will allow you to ride on a broken axle by holding it together!

    Hubs: Deore LX cup and cone bearings

    Front and rear mechs: Deore LX

    Brake cantis: Deore LX (these will take road blocks if need be)

    Cranks: Deore LX 110bcd on top and mid - granny bcd on small

    Pedals: Deore LX

    Shifters: Deore

    Cassette: Deore LX I think- approx 14 to 28T

    Levers: tektro (open) will work with caliper / V and canti (IF YOU CONVERT TO DROPS GER CROSS TOP LEVER PLUS v AERO LEVERS (TEKTRO MAKE SOME CYCLOCROSS V LEVERS - THEY'LL WORK WITH V OR CANITS SO YOU'LL STIL HAVE THAT OPTION LATER IF SOMETHING 'BREAKS' - NO PUN INTENDED))

    MOR INFO: TYRES ARE SCHWABLE MARATHON (RRP 20GBP EACH - IN ALMOST NEW CONDITION) - ALSO I'M GONG TO TRY TO GET A CHAIN RING GUARD IN THERE BEHIND THE LARGE COG (ONE OF THOSE DISCS THAT STOPS ANY ACCIDENTAL CHAIN SUCK AND SPOKE BREAKAGE) - GOT TO BE OWRTHWHILE HAVING ONE OF THEM IN AS A SAFETY MEASURE
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