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    Senior Member bg4533's Avatar
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    Rear hub for Cannondale ST500 with 126mm spacing?

    A friend just picked up a 1986 Cannondale ST500. The bike is in reasonable condition, but the wheels are a bit out of true and the nipples and eyelets are fairly corroded. I'm not sure I trust the wheels for touring, so am looking into building up a new set. The frame is aluminum with 126mm spacing. Normally I'd just throw on a new 130mm cassette hub, but I suspect that aluminum won't respond as well to that as a steel frame.

    What are my options? Are there any quality, inexpensive 126mm hubs that are still made? Should I buy an old 126mm hub from Ebay? Any recommendations for hubs to look for or stay away from? Would it be worth reusing the Shimano 600 hub that is currently on the bike?

    Not sure I've ever seen this done, but could a formula track hub be respaced and used with a 6 speed freewheel? It seems like the hub body might be a bit wide which would make it difficult to get proper tensions.

  2. #2
    Velocommuter Commando Sirrus Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bg4533 View Post
    A friend just picked up a 1986 Cannondale ST500. The bike is in reasonable condition, but the wheels are a bit out of true and the nipples and eyelets are fairly corroded. I'm not sure I trust the wheels for touring, so am looking into building up a new set. The frame is aluminum with 126mm spacing. Normally I'd just throw on a new 130mm cassette hub, but I suspect that aluminum won't respond as well to that as a steel frame.

    What are my options? Are there any quality, inexpensive 126mm hubs that are still made? Should I buy an old 126mm hub from Ebay? Any recommendations for hubs to look for or stay away from? Would it be worth reusing the Shimano 600 hub that is currently on the bike?

    Not sure I've ever seen this done, but could a formula track hub be respaced and used with a 6 speed freewheel? It seems like the hub body might be a bit wide which would make it difficult to get proper tensions.
    My vote is to rebuild the wheel on the current hub provided that it's still in good condition.
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  3. #3
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirrus Rider View Post
    My vote is to rebuild the wheel on the current hub provided that it's still in good condition.
    I agree. Hubs should last for several wheel lives.

    However, if the hub is jonesed, a 130mm road hub will also work. The rear triangle will spread to accommodate the 4mm difference.
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    Senior Member bg4533's Avatar
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    Thanks for the response. I'll take a closer look at the hubs. I suspect with some new bearings and fresh grease they'll be fine. Anyone know where I can find specs like flange diameter for these hubs?

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    You also might be able to fit a 7 speed freewheel on the 126mm hub. I did it on an old (1985?) Trek 1000 and it worked perfectly.

  6. #6
    Crawlin' up, flyin' down bikingshearer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bg4533 View Post
    A friend just picked up a 1986 Cannondale ST500. The bike is in reasonable condition, but the wheels are a bit out of true and the nipples and eyelets are fairly corroded. I'm not sure I trust the wheels for touring, so am looking into building up a new set. The frame is aluminum with 126mm spacing. Normally I'd just throw on a new 130mm cassette hub, but I suspect that aluminum won't respond as well to that as a steel frame.

    What are my options? Are there any quality, inexpensive 126mm hubs that are still made? Should I buy an old 126mm hub from Ebay? Any recommendations for hubs to look for or stay away from? Would it be worth reusing the Shimano 600 hub that is currently on the bike?

    Not sure I've ever seen this done, but could a formula track hub be respaced and used with a 6 speed freewheel? It seems like the hub body might be a bit wide which would make it difficult to get proper tensions.
    I would go with this thought. Yeah, it's only 4mm, but aluminum does not like to be cold-bent, and I would be very hesitant to risk cramming a 130mm hub in a 126mm aluminum rear triangle. No way it would fail immediately, and it may never fail, but why chance it?

    Best bet: rebuild the wheel using the existing hub, as already suggested.

    Next best bet - look for a rear hub or rear wheel (on eBay, Craig's List, etc) that is a "7-speed," which translates to 126mm.

    I would also suggest that, once you find the cassette or freewheel (as the case may be) that you want, buy two or three of them, because they are not going to get any easier to find in the future.
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    Senior Member Iowegian's Avatar
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    If you're worried about using the wheel for touring I'd either use a freehub model or a Phil, not a normal freewheel hub since they are prone to bent axles. The Phil's aren't cheap but they are available in 126mm and are as strong or stronger than any freehub.

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    Senior Member Steev's Avatar
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    If the current hub is a Shimano freehub, buy a 130mm Shimano hub and transfer the 7 speed freehub to the new hub. Should be a straight swap.

  9. #9
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikingshearer View Post
    I would go with this thought. Yeah, it's only 4mm, but aluminum does not like to be cold-bent, and I would be very hesitant to risk cramming a 130mm hub in a 126mm aluminum rear triangle. No way it would fail immediately, and it may never fail, but why chance it?
    4mm = 1/8" A very small difference. The Cannondales have very long stays and shouldn't have any problem with the flex. My 2003 T800 comes with a 132.5 OLD so that you can use either a 130mm or 135mm hub. Yes, it's only 2.5mm difference but that's only 1.5 mm narrower than 4 mm. That's practically a hair's width

    It's not an issue. I've even retrofitted a 130mm road hub into a 2.8 Cannondale frame. That's the really, really short Cannondale frame. No issues.
    Stuart Black
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  10. #10
    I am Noobert.
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    why are all wheels quick release?

  11. #11
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noobert View Post
    why are all wheels quick release?
    Because it's a pain to carry a wrench to change a wheel. It's easy to convert to a nut if you want. Don't know why you'd want to but whatever floats your boat
    Stuart Black
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  12. #12
    rhm
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    multimodal commuter rhm's Avatar
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    How bad are the original wheels? Unless there is excessive brake wear, it really only depends how close to true you can get them. I'd try that first.

    What are the original hubs? Sunshine with sealed bearings? Those are very nice hubs. Come to think of it, I have an ST500 that is missing its original wheels... want to sell them?

  13. #13
    I am Noobert.
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    Considering that this is the touring forum, im sure no one is oppossed to bring a small adjustable wrench.


    I like spacers. But thats coming from a purely single speed mechanical background
    Last edited by Noobert; 10-06-09 at 10:03 AM.

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