hybridbkrdr

I bought a touring frameset from Nashbar and it seems cool and everything but I put some wheels on it to check out the size. It's only like 1 inch under my crotch with 700x45 tires (Kenda Keen Commuter). (Yes, there is enough room for fenders too. I'm not sure, but this may be the new version of their frameset.) Anyway, it's the 54cm model and I'm 5'8" with an inseam of 81cm. (I usually wear size 31 length for pants.) The Colorado Cyclist frame size calculator shows 54cm (road frame) for an 81cm inseam. My departement store hybrid bicycle is an 18 inch and looks smaller. But I have probably at least 2 inches of clearance when standing on top of the frame of my hybrid (with the same 700x45 tires). I know I intend to use 700x40 tires on this touring frameset (which would lower the height of the toptube) but does anyone think the frame size may be an issue? I want to use this frameset with an upright position to visit local villages.

By the way, the frame doesn't have any guides (name?) for the derailleur cables. Is there something I can buy or do I have to use stupid plastic cable ties?

For anyone thinking of getting one of those frames, it does come with a derailleur hanger and stickers.

Jtgyk

Firstly congrats on your frame! I really like mine.
Your crotch clearance is still OK.
What shifters are you going to use?

For the derailleur cables, you need to buy a set of cable stops. They bolt onto the side of your down tube (unless you are using down tube shifters) and act as the terminus for the cable housing from your shifters on your handlebars. The cable then runs bare ...under your bottom bracket (there is a plastic plate with guides) to your front derailleur for one cable, and the other runs to a built in cable stop on your chain stay, where you will have another section of housing to route your cable to your rear derailleur. Sound complex? It's actually easy.

I'll take some photos and put them up here for you tomorrow...erm this morning....um after I wake up.

TurbineBlade

That sounds fine to me! My surly LHT frame only clears my crotch by exactly 1" --which is ideal IMO since it puts the handlebars nice and level with my saddle height. This is a 60cm frame and I'm 6' tall with about a 90 PBH

I had previously ridden on "race fit" bikes in the 56cm size, which had plenty of crotch clearance, but also had tons of exposed seat post and lower bars. I grew out of that mindset and am happier for it.

IMO the best bike is one that is the biggest possible frame size which still clears your crotch by 1".

kayakdiver

It's really going to be a personal thing. I'm 5'11" and I ride a 55 and run 2" of drop between saddle and bar. Still much less than my Giant with 4". It will really come down to stem length and bar drop and saddle position. If you don't have the basics of bike fit I would suggest a basic fitting from someone qualified to do so. Like a LBS or cycling coach in your area.

Getting fit is sooooooooooo important for lasting comfort and can help prevent stress injury and well.

kyakdiver

cyccommute 

First, your frame size sounds about right. An inch of standover clearance is about par for the course. Mountain bikes (and hybrids) use smaller frames for the off-road clearance you may need. They run around 3" of standover clearance.

Don't put too much stock in fit guides from places like Colorado Cyclist...not for touring bikes anyway Those guys are going to fit a bike with a racing bias which means a very long top tube, smaller frame overall, handlebars that are 3" to 4" below the saddle, etc. A touring bike is slightly more upright with handlebars closer to the saddle. Kyakdiver's 2" drop (and mine, for that matter) is about a low as you want to go on a touring bike. Any lower and you'll spend your whole day with a stiff neck! Touring cyclists are more interested in seeing the sights than in aerodynamics

On the cable guide issue. The bike has guides for the rear derailer under the driveside chainstay and for both rear and front derailers under the bottom bracket. Unless you are going to use downtube shifters, you'll need an adapter that goes on the downtube bosses. This is what it looks like


Here's what they look like mounted



You can get them from your local bike shop or from these guys.

hybridbkrdr

Wow, thanks for the information. OK, I forgot to mention I wanted to use handlebar-mounted friction shifters. When you've gone up a hill and start going back down, instead of clicking on an index shifter several times, I'd rather just push once. The handlebars I bought are Brave Stiffee that go up a little higher than most riser bars. Here's a picture (if the link works).
Yes, the Nashbar touring frame has those mounts on the side for downtube shifters. I'm relieved to see what I need to get.
I don't know if I'll bother re-painting the frame now because the metallic green seems so cool even though I wish I would have had a "safer" color like yellow.

Does anyone here think it's better to use comfort grips than round grips? I'm somewhat undecided.

And, is it true you can use rear V-brakes also in the front? I bought two rear thinking I could put the other rear one in the front. I read you could do that, just want to make sure.

escii_35

Sounds like a perfect fit for Road touring. Off road or race I would go smaller.

hybridbkrdr

Can you say how much smaller you think would be good if I wanted to race? Would you go from 54cm to 52cm or 54cm to 50cm? If I make more money in the next few months, I might build a cyclocross bike as well for the fun of it.

guadzilla

I have pretty much your dimensions - 6', 35.4" PBH. I have a 58cm LHT and find it feels a little too long for me (and I have pretty long arms as well). Are you KOP-neutral when you ride the bike, or is your knee a little behind the pedal?

I am not sure if it is just a matter of me getting used to a longer, upright frame as I am probably more used to that race-fit 56cm frame with a lot of exposed seatpost and a 5" drop from the saddle to the handlebar.