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Old 01-19-10, 01:40 PM   #1
CNY James
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show me your bar ends!

curious to see how you routed your cables at the bars before you taped them.

I'm installing mine today, not going to be able to tape the bars yet so I would like to see a few different set ups before I do mine.

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-19-10, 03:14 PM   #2
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no pics, but the housing runs under the leather all the way to the center (stem). This is cleanest, and works great.

I used to have them come out at the bottom of the bends (like you often see) but they just got caught up on things all the time. I think this was done back in the day because the old suntour barcons really didnt work all that well. with modern barend shifters (shimano or the diacompe/silver brands) you can run the housing fully under the tape.
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Old 01-19-10, 04:32 PM   #3
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Note: Running standard Jagwire cables and housing completely under the tape on my 23" T1000 resulted in not having enough length on cable or housing to create a proper cable loop by the rear derailleur.

I wound up having to patch in some old housing and buy a longer 'tandem length' cable for the right shifter.
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Old 01-19-10, 06:11 PM   #4
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All the way, with housings leaving the bar tape and going to the "wrong" shifter boss (i.e., left front barcon goes to the right shifter boss, then wires crossing under the downtube to reach their proper derailleurs). That gives the largest diameter bends and the smoothest shifting. I was always afraid that the routing that exits the bartape would result in my becoming hopelessly tangled and likely dying in a horrible crash as a result. (I'm klutzy.)
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Old 01-19-10, 06:17 PM   #5
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Yes, you definitely need longer cables/housings than what's supplied.

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Old 01-19-10, 08:04 PM   #6
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I'm hoping to do that to mine ^^^ looks so much cleaner IMO vs. having it come out of the bottom of the bends.

I can always "mock" tape them with electric tape or something to see if it still shifts okay. I can easily hold the cable there so we'll see.
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Old 01-19-10, 08:35 PM   #7
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Yeah, wrap the cable under the whole bar wrap & use a tandem cable for the rear.
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Old 01-19-10, 08:36 PM   #8
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You pretty much need to electrical tape the housings onto the bars at several points to keep them held in position anyway. It makes wrapping the bar tape a lot easier.

like this:

Last edited by roadfix; 01-19-10 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 01-19-10, 08:44 PM   #9
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thanks for the tip! This will actually be my first bar wrap job... mine is a little different than yours cuz i put cross brakes on it, too... not sure if I should end the wrap at them or just past them...
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Old 01-19-10, 09:39 PM   #10
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Everybody agrees! hoo-rah for bike forums.
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Old 01-19-10, 09:42 PM   #11
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cables

Here is how my mechanic routed the cables for my bar-ends, similar to how roadfix did his. My mechanic told me that the stock Shimano cable operating the rear derailleur was not long enough.
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Old 01-19-10, 09:50 PM   #12
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the biggest difference I see between your bikes and mine is that your cables run along the down tube, mine are along the top tube. Might make a difference, we shall see...
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Old 01-19-10, 09:51 PM   #13
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My brand new 2010 Co-Motion came set up like this. Seems to work fine.

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Old 01-19-10, 10:24 PM   #14
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Everybody agrees! hoo-rah for bike forums.

Spoken too soon!



Tom
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Old 01-20-10, 03:53 AM   #15
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with cross levers-
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Old 01-20-10, 05:49 AM   #16
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If you use this stuff: http://www.mocap.com/silicone-tape.html to tack down your cables you'll never have tape smut on your bars to clean off.
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Old 01-20-10, 10:46 AM   #17
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My brand new 2010 Co-Motion came set up like this. Seems to work fine.


My cables are routed like that too. They don't seem to get in the way, but I do like the clean look of the surly above.
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Old 01-20-10, 10:51 AM   #18
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Found a pic, you can kind of see the routing.


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Old 01-20-10, 11:39 AM   #19
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My Cannondale T700 came with the housings exiting the bar tape. I found that when riding in the drops w/ access to the brake levers left my hands getting tangled up in housings. Once I get around to re-wrapping/re-cabling I'll try and make them exit at the top like is shown. Assuming the cross-tops will let me!
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Old 01-20-10, 04:37 PM   #20
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Gear cables under the bar tape , also Paul Cross Brake Levers.
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Old 01-20-10, 05:01 PM   #21
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Don't have a pic, but mine used to be routed all the way under the bar tape, but I found this made the shifting poor on the rear derailleur. I then made it leave the tape at the bend. This could have been due to routing technique - i.e. too tight around the bar but I don't know.
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Old 01-20-10, 05:29 PM   #22
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Don't have a pic, but mine used to be routed all the way under the bar tape, but I found this made the shifting poor on the rear derailleur. I then made it leave the tape at the bend. This could have been due to routing technique - i.e. too tight around the bar but I don't know.
I've always mounted my barcons in this manner on several bikes and never experienced shifting issues, even on ergo bars with several snaking bends. And I wrap my tapes very tight.
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Old 01-21-10, 03:47 AM   #23
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Must have just been me then, it worked fine at first though!
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Old 01-23-10, 07:48 PM   #24
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I taped my bars, as expected not quite enough cable to get all the way to the stem but with the cross brakes, I guess it's okay.

here is how it came out... still have almost 90* of turn in each direction, I can't see any reason why I would ever turn my wheel that far in the first place.

004.JPG

005.JPG
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Old 01-23-10, 08:39 PM   #25
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This thread influenced me to route the cables this way. I used SIS housing thinking it may make shifting smoother. They do feel a bit tight, but it may be the crappy shifters.
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