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  1. #1
    Senior Member CNY James's Avatar
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    show me your bar ends!

    curious to see how you routed your cables at the bars before you taped them.

    I'm installing mine today, not going to be able to tape the bars yet so I would like to see a few different set ups before I do mine.

    Thanks in advance

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    no pics, but the housing runs under the leather all the way to the center (stem). This is cleanest, and works great.

    I used to have them come out at the bottom of the bends (like you often see) but they just got caught up on things all the time. I think this was done back in the day because the old suntour barcons really didnt work all that well. with modern barend shifters (shimano or the diacompe/silver brands) you can run the housing fully under the tape.

  3. #3
    It's true, man.
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    Note: Running standard Jagwire cables and housing completely under the tape on my 23" T1000 resulted in not having enough length on cable or housing to create a proper cable loop by the rear derailleur.

    I wound up having to patch in some old housing and buy a longer 'tandem length' cable for the right shifter.

  4. #4
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    All the way, with housings leaving the bar tape and going to the "wrong" shifter boss (i.e., left front barcon goes to the right shifter boss, then wires crossing under the downtube to reach their proper derailleurs). That gives the largest diameter bends and the smoothest shifting. I was always afraid that the routing that exits the bartape would result in my becoming hopelessly tangled and likely dying in a horrible crash as a result. (I'm klutzy.)

  5. #5
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    Yes, you definitely need longer cables/housings than what's supplied.

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  6. #6
    Senior Member CNY James's Avatar
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    I'm hoping to do that to mine ^^^ looks so much cleaner IMO vs. having it come out of the bottom of the bends.

    I can always "mock" tape them with electric tape or something to see if it still shifts okay. I can easily hold the cable there so we'll see.

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    Yeah, wrap the cable under the whole bar wrap & use a tandem cable for the rear.
    ...

  8. #8
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    You pretty much need to electrical tape the housings onto the bars at several points to keep them held in position anyway. It makes wrapping the bar tape a lot easier.

    like this:
    Last edited by roadfix; 01-19-10 at 07:40 PM.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member CNY James's Avatar
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    thanks for the tip! This will actually be my first bar wrap job... mine is a little different than yours cuz i put cross brakes on it, too... not sure if I should end the wrap at them or just past them...

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    Everybody agrees! hoo-rah for bike forums.

  11. #11
    Senior Member tarwheel's Avatar
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    cables

    Here is how my mechanic routed the cables for my bar-ends, similar to how roadfix did his. My mechanic told me that the stock Shimano cable operating the rear derailleur was not long enough.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
    Senior Member CNY James's Avatar
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    the biggest difference I see between your bikes and mine is that your cables run along the down tube, mine are along the top tube. Might make a difference, we shall see...

  13. #13
    BE the Ferrari. supersport's Avatar
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    My brand new 2010 Co-Motion came set up like this. Seems to work fine.


  14. #14
    www.Click-Stand.com tomn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by positron View Post
    Everybody agrees! hoo-rah for bike forums.

    Spoken too soon!



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    with cross levers-
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #16
    It's true, man.
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    If you use this stuff: http://www.mocap.com/silicone-tape.html to tack down your cables you'll never have tape smut on your bars to clean off.

  17. #17
    sniffin' glue zoltani's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supersport View Post
    My brand new 2010 Co-Motion came set up like this. Seems to work fine.


    My cables are routed like that too. They don't seem to get in the way, but I do like the clean look of the surly above.

  18. #18
    sniffin' glue zoltani's Avatar
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    Found a pic, you can kind of see the routing.



  19. #19
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    My Cannondale T700 came with the housings exiting the bar tape. I found that when riding in the drops w/ access to the brake levers left my hands getting tangled up in housings. Once I get around to re-wrapping/re-cabling I'll try and make them exit at the top like is shown. Assuming the cross-tops will let me!
    1993 Cannondale T700 - 1994 Specialized Rockhopper - Actionbent T1 (Electrification in progress!)

  20. #20
    fks
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    Gear cables under the bar tape , also Paul Cross Brake Levers.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  21. #21
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    Don't have a pic, but mine used to be routed all the way under the bar tape, but I found this made the shifting poor on the rear derailleur. I then made it leave the tape at the bend. This could have been due to routing technique - i.e. too tight around the bar but I don't know.

  22. #22
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daven1986 View Post
    Don't have a pic, but mine used to be routed all the way under the bar tape, but I found this made the shifting poor on the rear derailleur. I then made it leave the tape at the bend. This could have been due to routing technique - i.e. too tight around the bar but I don't know.
    I've always mounted my barcons in this manner on several bikes and never experienced shifting issues, even on ergo bars with several snaking bends. And I wrap my tapes very tight.
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    Must have just been me then, it worked fine at first though!

  24. #24
    Senior Member CNY James's Avatar
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    I taped my bars, as expected not quite enough cable to get all the way to the stem but with the cross brakes, I guess it's okay.

    here is how it came out... still have almost 90* of turn in each direction, I can't see any reason why I would ever turn my wheel that far in the first place.

    004.JPG

    005.JPG

  25. #25
    Senior Member bbllaakke's Avatar
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    This thread influenced me to route the cables this way. I used SIS housing thinking it may make shifting smoother. They do feel a bit tight, but it may be the crappy shifters.

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