motor oil on the saddle........
#1
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motor oil on the saddle........
I just read Sheldon browns write up on leather (as I just purchaced my first Brooks b17)
The salesman pitched me a tin of proofide, and I oblidged.
But mr. Brown seems too think this is only for the faint of heat and that in order to achieve maximum results, more durastic measures and materials are needed.
(sounds like a challenge to me)
he lists a bunch of products that seem to be pretty hard to find here in japan.........except for motor oil.
So..........I'm thinking of trying it........tomorrow when I get home.
Objections or advice before I subject my new honey brown to a baptism of 30wt black gold?
The salesman pitched me a tin of proofide, and I oblidged.
But mr. Brown seems too think this is only for the faint of heat and that in order to achieve maximum results, more durastic measures and materials are needed.
(sounds like a challenge to me)
he lists a bunch of products that seem to be pretty hard to find here in japan.........except for motor oil.
So..........I'm thinking of trying it........tomorrow when I get home.
Objections or advice before I subject my new honey brown to a baptism of 30wt black gold?
#4
GATC
Motor oil will be a disaster, don't do it.
I have had good luck w/ no treatment whatsoever on leather saddles. Stuff a plastic bag under it so the bottom doesn't get wet while you ride, then put the plastic bag on the top when you park it so it doesn't get rained on when your butt's not on it, and that will last many thousands of miles.
Proofide as such is not necessary. Any kind of beeswax for waterproofing at least won't hurt the saddle like motor oil will.
I have had good luck w/ no treatment whatsoever on leather saddles. Stuff a plastic bag under it so the bottom doesn't get wet while you ride, then put the plastic bag on the top when you park it so it doesn't get rained on when your butt's not on it, and that will last many thousands of miles.
Proofide as such is not necessary. Any kind of beeswax for waterproofing at least won't hurt the saddle like motor oil will.
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Yeah, right, motor oil. Not to change the subject or anything, but has anyone ever noticed the late Sheldon "the infallible" Brown's deadpan sense of humor? I never met him, but I pick it up in his writing sometimes.
Here's what he says about motor oil: "There are probably lots of other liquid oils that would work as well-RAAM pioneer Lon Haldeman uses SAE 30 motor oil, but his saddles tend to wear out after only 300,000 miles or so (according to Cyclist magazine)." Does it sound to you like he's serious? Sounds to me like he's pulling someone's leg.
If you're talking about a new Brooks saddle that you've paid $50 - $200 for, my advice is: leave it alone! Ride it for at least a few hundred miles before you do anything to it.
If you're talking about a 15 year old saddle you've bought used or inherited, it has probably dried out a bit and it could use some Proofide.
Here's what he says about motor oil: "There are probably lots of other liquid oils that would work as well-RAAM pioneer Lon Haldeman uses SAE 30 motor oil, but his saddles tend to wear out after only 300,000 miles or so (according to Cyclist magazine)." Does it sound to you like he's serious? Sounds to me like he's pulling someone's leg.
If you're talking about a new Brooks saddle that you've paid $50 - $200 for, my advice is: leave it alone! Ride it for at least a few hundred miles before you do anything to it.
If you're talking about a 15 year old saddle you've bought used or inherited, it has probably dried out a bit and it could use some Proofide.
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As far as me, I don't use anything on my leather saddles. Something as thin as SAE 30 will surely make your saddle quite soft (this is my untested opinion - grain of salt and all that). Some Brooks come extremely hard, some come quite soft. My last B17 started breaking in around 400 miles, and was an hammock after 5k. My current B67 is so hard that it feels like riding on a steel saddle, but that didn't coerce me to use anything on it. After a few hundred miles, it's now breaking in a tiny bit, and it feels quite comfortable.
Are you guys ready to throw rocks at an infidel?
When 100s of miles and regular Proofide treatments didn't do the job, I was ready to throw my Brooks saddle into the landfill. In desperation, I tried Lon Haldeman's (Race Across America Champion) alleged secret: I soaked the saddle in motor oil for a few hours in the baking sun, wiped it down and have been riding comfortably ever since. That was about five years ago.
Strangely, my next Brooks saddle for another bike didn't seem to need any breaking in. Probably because my butt was what actually needed the conditioning in the first place.
When 100s of miles and regular Proofide treatments didn't do the job, I was ready to throw my Brooks saddle into the landfill. In desperation, I tried Lon Haldeman's (Race Across America Champion) alleged secret: I soaked the saddle in motor oil for a few hours in the baking sun, wiped it down and have been riding comfortably ever since. That was about five years ago.
Strangely, my next Brooks saddle for another bike didn't seem to need any breaking in. Probably because my butt was what actually needed the conditioning in the first place.
#8
aka Phil Jungels
Yeah, right, motor oil. Not to change the subject or anything, but has anyone ever noticed the late Sheldon "the infallible" Brown's deadpan sense of humor? I never met him, but I pick it up in his writing sometimes.
Here's what he says about motor oil: "There are probably lots of other liquid oils that would work as well-RAAM pioneer Lon Haldeman uses SAE 30 motor oil, but his saddles tend to wear out after only 300,000 miles or so (according to Cyclist magazine)." Does it sound to you like he's serious? Sounds to me like he's pulling someone's leg.
If you're talking about a new Brooks saddle that you've paid $50 - $200 for, my advice is: leave it alone! Ride it for at least a few hundred miles before you do anything to it.
If you're talking about a 15 year old saddle you've bought used or inherited, it has probably dried out a bit and it could use some Proofide.
Here's what he says about motor oil: "There are probably lots of other liquid oils that would work as well-RAAM pioneer Lon Haldeman uses SAE 30 motor oil, but his saddles tend to wear out after only 300,000 miles or so (according to Cyclist magazine)." Does it sound to you like he's serious? Sounds to me like he's pulling someone's leg.
If you're talking about a new Brooks saddle that you've paid $50 - $200 for, my advice is: leave it alone! Ride it for at least a few hundred miles before you do anything to it.
If you're talking about a 15 year old saddle you've bought used or inherited, it has probably dried out a bit and it could use some Proofide.
#9
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Search the net. You'll find numerous people who have done the motor oil treatment and were happy with it. I can't say I would do it, but to each their own. Just because "Sheldon" sounds sarcastic doesn't mean it won't work.
#10
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As for taking Sheldon seriously, don't judge a mechanic by his helmet!
Last edited by rhm; 03-26-10 at 01:36 PM.
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I do not want the additives included in motor oil massaged into my butt.
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I'm tempted to say that motor oil is carcinogenic but I'd have to a degree in something or other to say that with conviction. Like you say, I'm not sure I'd want that additive package ground into my package day after day. A petro-chemical would not be my first.
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Probably many oils would soften the leather. People who work with leather tell me you don't need to use oil, and that they just "wet" most leathers a bit with plain water and it breaks in fine.
I rubbed some vegetable oil on mine about 8 months ago and it broke in just fine with a lot of saddle time. I haven't put anything else on it since and don't intend to.
I rubbed some vegetable oil on mine about 8 months ago and it broke in just fine with a lot of saddle time. I haven't put anything else on it since and don't intend to.
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I wouldn't use motor oil. As posted by others the staining and health concerns are valid. Is petroleum jelly (Vaseline®) or mineral oil (baby oil) available in Japan? These are low cost, highly refined, and without the additives in 10W40. Never tried them on a saddle, so proceed at your own risk.
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From experience(bad), follow the manufacturer's instructions without wavering if you want maximum life from your Brooks. I was warned about motor oil, but ignored the warning and paid for my foolishness by greatly diminished saddle life. If I were to try another Brooks, I might apply a little proofide, but nothing else.
Storing the bag under the saddle is a great idea.
Storing the bag under the saddle is a great idea.
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#19
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why not use mineral oil? cheap, easy to find, safe for your saddle and you (since it is used as a laxative)
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Maybe you should take your own advise. What was the topic again? Oh yea, saddles. Clearly I was *way off point* in suggesting some internet-based searching (even though I suggested against using petroleum-based oil). Perhaps someone should do a study to see why threads derail thanks to egotistical trolls. Perhaps that would make a good master's thesis for someone.
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Although I haven't tried motor oil (and wouldn't), I did immerse my B17 in neatsfoot oil for a good half hour. That was over a year and ~2000 miles ago. It is not falling apart and shows no discernible stretch/deterioration at the rivets. As noted, oil will darken the saddle. Mine is black so that's a non-issue. You won't be able to ride in anything but black biking shorts until the excess oil has wicked to something. Did it work for me? Yes, the leather is still quite supportive but has considerably more flex. I'd suggest riding it without anything (not even the Proofhide) applied for at least 500 miles, preferably 1000+. And like has been stated, plain old water will aid the break-in process. Plenty of BF posters have commented that their Brooks saddles have benefited from a good ride in the rain, whether it was intentional or not. I did try water but must not have been liberal enough with it though. I applied a wet (not dripping) washcloth over the rear of the seat for ~1/2 hour prior to riding. Proceed with caution and good luck.
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Maybe you should take your own advise. What was the topic again? Oh yea, saddles. Clearly I was *way off point* in suggesting some internet-based searching (even though I suggested against using petroleum-based oil). Perhaps someone should do a study to see why threads derail thanks to egotistical trolls. Perhaps that would make a good master's thesis for someone.
Kind of like this:
https://www.theonion.com/articles/une...kes-beer,2186/
#23
Cycle Year Round
You already have the manufacturers proofide, why are you considering anything else.
Most of the other suggestions are by people that do not want to pay for the proofide or want to shorten the break in period (not always with best results).
Most of the other suggestions are by people that do not want to pay for the proofide or want to shorten the break in period (not always with best results).
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That's what I was thinking, you've got the proofide, so use it! (sparingly)