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Old 02-25-10, 08:28 PM   #1
miket.
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lacing a brooks

hello all,
its about time i lace together the sides of my saddle so i turned to the wonderful interwebz for instruction. i read an account of someone who has used a drill to make the holes rather than a leather punch. Is this a good idea? or will it result in torn leather and much frustration? i'd rather not buy a leather punch since i have no other use for it.
thanks for any help or suggestions
-mike
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Old 02-25-10, 08:44 PM   #2
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You funny people and lacing your brooks.... good grief. Wouldn't it be uncomfortable on your feet?
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Old 02-25-10, 09:14 PM   #3
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hello all,
its about time i lace together the sides of my saddle so i turned to the wonderful interwebz for instruction. i read an account of someone who has used a drill to make the holes rather than a leather punch. Is this a good idea? or will it result in torn leather and much frustration? i'd rather not buy a leather punch since i have no other use for it.
thanks for any help or suggestions
-mike
I would write to Brooks and ask them.They know more than anyone.They can tell you if it would work.Hope this helps
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Old 02-25-10, 09:47 PM   #4
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Do a google search for "lacing brooks saddle."

Here is one link: http://www.wallbike.com/content/butchering.html
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Old 02-25-10, 11:05 PM   #5
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You can buy a leather punch for less than $10. It will leave nice, sharp, clean holes. The drill won't.
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Old 02-25-10, 11:22 PM   #6
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I had a friend drill mine, it looks clean as a whistle.
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Old 02-25-10, 11:27 PM   #7
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So I get the feeling you guys aren't a fan of the tension adjuster.

Sheldon scare you away from it?
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Old 02-26-10, 07:19 AM   #8
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You can buy a leather punch for less than $10. It will leave nice, sharp, clean holes. The drill won't.
Maybe you were using an old worn out drill bit. Mine turned out fine.
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Old 02-26-10, 07:23 AM   #9
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So I get the feeling you guys aren't a fan of the tension adjuster.
The tension knob and lacing perform two different functions. More tension will not stop the sides from flaring, though lacing will firm up the top a bit but its real purpose is stopping the flaring
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Old 02-26-10, 10:32 AM   #10
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After buying a set of punches as well as a plier style punch, and failing with both tools to fully punch through my Team Pro, I took a drill to it. My holes came out clean because they'd already been started with the punches. I've no idea what will happen if you use only a drill.

Don't rely on the Brooks logo for positioning your holes. The logos are stamped on by hand and are asymetrical.
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Old 02-26-10, 09:31 PM   #11
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thanks for the info everyone, i'm gonna go ahead and try drilling based on the positive remarks from Yan, roger, and maidenvoyage
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Old 02-26-10, 09:37 PM   #12
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thanks for the info everyone, i'm gonna go ahead and try drilling based on the positive remarks from Yan, roger, and maidenvoyage
I suggest you make sure you use a nice sharp bit. Nothing turns out well with a crappy old bit unless sharp.
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Old 02-27-10, 06:27 AM   #13
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Maybe a Forstner bit would cut a nice clean hole? Available from a woodworking supplier..the one pictured below is a very large one- they come in many sizes.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 31T5Z51FHRL._SL500_AA280_.jpg (6.9 KB, 3 views)

Last edited by bobframe; 02-27-10 at 06:52 AM.
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Old 02-27-10, 11:02 AM   #14
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thanks for the info everyone, i'm gonna go ahead and try drilling based on the positive remarks from Yan, roger, and maidenvoyage
Use a pointed razor blade to clean the edges of the holes if you use a drill bit.
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Old 02-27-10, 03:05 PM   #15
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You want a harder Brooks?

Try a brad point drill bit.
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Old 02-28-10, 01:58 PM   #16
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drill works great. also, make sure you drill the holes where you need them. you don't need to follow someone else's instructions. i drilled 2 in each side of mine and that's all i needed.
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Old 02-28-10, 02:56 PM   #17
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drill works great. also, make sure you drill the holes where you need them. you don't need to follow someone else's instructions. i drilled 2 in each side of mine and that's all i needed.
+1, do what you need, you can always add more holes.
I put a few before and after the seatpost clamp area. I also supported the leather with a scrap wood backing, but I don't know if that helped make the hole cleaner. It just made drilling easier.
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