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Old 03-17-10, 09:59 AM   #1
KonAaron Snake 
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Question on touring suitability

Hi gang,

Looking for advice and insight....

I have a dura ace 7400 group lieing around (8sp STI). The wheels are 32 hole matrix rims and not sure on the spoke type. My questions are:

1. Would a dura ace hub be weaker/less suitable than a 105 or Ultegra hub? For that matter, are mtn hubs much stronger? Do I really need 36 hole?

2. Is there any reason I wouldn't want to use a dura ace drive train (obviously I'd switch the cranks for a compact)?

3. Are bar cons going to give me many advantages over STI? I generally really like STI.

4. Is there a lot of difference between various cantilever brake styles? I'd like to do the older style wider cantis, but I've heard they can get in the way of bags and racks.
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Old 03-17-10, 10:06 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake View Post
Hi gang,

Looking for advice and insight....

I have a dura ace 7400 group lieing around (8sp STI). The wheels are 32 hole matrix rims and not sure on the spoke type. My questions are:

1. Would a dura ace hub be weaker/less suitable than a 105 or Ultegra hub? For that matter, are mtn hubs much stronger? Do I really need 36 hole?

Great hubs.. depends on you if they are going to be strong enough at 32 spoke. Are you a big boy?

2. Is there any reason I wouldn't want to use a dura ace drive train (obviously I'd switch the cranks for a compact)?

It will work great. I would suggest a mountain double crank though. Unless you're riding flatlands

3. Are bar cons going to give me many advantages over STI? I generally really like STI.

I've put tons of miles on my touring bikes with STI. I like them and will ride with nothing else.

4. Is there a lot of difference between various cantilever brake styles? I'd like to do the older style wider cantis, but I've heard they can get in the way of bags and racks.
Can't really say. i run cheapo stock canti's with quality pads.. pads are going to make the most difference in my experience.
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Old 03-17-10, 11:53 AM   #3
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Have the wheels trued and tensioned by a good mechanic. Then load the bike up and go on some day rides and weekend tours - that way if your equipment doesn't hold up for some reason, you will find out about it before trying any big tours.
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Old 03-17-10, 12:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake View Post
Hi gang,

Looking for advice and insight....

I have a dura ace 7400 group lieing around (8sp STI). The wheels are 32 hole matrix rims and not sure on the spoke type. My questions are:

1. Would a dura ace hub be weaker/less suitable than a 105 or Ultegra hub? For that matter, are mtn hubs much stronger? Do I really need 36 hole?
I think those are old enough that still have steel axles and freehub bodies, so they should be fine. 32 hole might be ok but it depends on how much you weigh and how much you carry.

Quote:
2. Is there any reason I wouldn't want to use a dura ace drive train (obviously I'd switch the cranks for a compact)?
A compact crank, even with a MTB cassette, might not give you enough range for self-supported touring. The RD probably can't handle a MTB cassette anyway. Unless you're planning credit card or ultralight touring, I think you'll want something that can accommodate a triple and/or a MTB cassette.

Quote:
3. Are bar cons going to give me many advantages over STI? I generally really like STI.
Bar end shifters are less likely to break, and it keeps your options open if something else breaks and you have limited replacement parts to choose from. Some people also prefer friction shifting, especially in the front. I think STI is worth it anyway, but on tour I do carry a friction bar end and housing just in case.

Quote:
4. Is there a lot of difference between various cantilever brake styles? I'd like to do the older style wider cantis, but I've heard they can get in the way of bags and racks.
There is a difference, but I wouldn't say it's a lot. You can also equalize it somewhat by going to an adjustable yoke cable. Pads and proper adjustment make more of a difference.
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Old 03-17-10, 12:28 PM   #5
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I'm assuming that this is for your Kogo-Miyata, perhaps the greatest factory built tourer ever.

Did you check the rear drop out spacing? It might be 126mm, and most eight speed hubs were at least 130. It is possible to squeeze a 130mm hub in but I don't know the long term effects would be.

Judging from your description of yourself, perhaps a thirty-six spoke rear wheel would be best especially with loaded panniers.

Sugino makes a reasonably priced triple: it comes stock with 46-36-26 rings. Harris, Vo and Rivendell sells them. Peter White sells an interesting TA crank.

I have been using Suntour bar ends sinc 1979. ( I belong on the over fifty forum-- the way over fifty forum) I have found them on junk bikes and yard sale bikes, and they work fine. Rivendell sells a bar end shifter based on the Suntour, called the Silver, They also sell handy little pods that let you adapt downtube shifters to bar ends. Shimano of course has its line.
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Old 03-17-10, 12:33 PM   #6
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I just want to say thanks for the great answers...I have a lot to think about. Please keep them coming!

This is for my Miyata (I WANT IT HERE ALREADY!). It is 130mm spacing and I am carrying more weight in the belly than I'd like. Unfortunately, I don't see myself doing full touring with this bike because I don't see how I could realistically get more than a week off from work. I'm thinking lighter touring is a lot more probable. Does that change the 32 hole equation at all?

On the other hand, why gamble and go with less strength?
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Old 03-17-10, 12:38 PM   #7
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Something else I forgot: old DA rear shifters and derailleurs are not compatible with the rest of Shimano's line. Apparently you can work around it by mounting the rear derailleur cable in a funny way, but I don't know how well this works. Sheldon Brown has a page about it: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/dura-ace.html
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Old 03-17-10, 12:44 PM   #8
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You could pull a trailer for touring and not change your wheels but the gearing you have is really on the high side. People have toured with and on everything imaginable so it's not impossible to tour with gearing that high but I doubt it would be very fun at times. Everything is a trade off, on the flats and downhills you'll be the man but when it comes to the hills (unless your name is Lance) you might as well pull out a skirt. I've ridden some big hills on my road bike with road gearing and they had me on my knees in no time.
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Old 03-17-10, 12:46 PM   #9
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Stedalus...I've got the complete group in early 90s dura ace...but I think your comment about the rear mtn cassette I;d need makes a lot of sense. It sounds like this isn't the best way to go...I was thinking about doing it since I have the group already and thought I could save some money.

I'm looking at a $1200ish build, maybe more, the way things stand...and I was hoping to go a little cheaper than that with a frame from 1992.
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Old 03-17-10, 12:56 PM   #10
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You could pull a trailer for touring and not change your wheels but the gearing you have is really on the high side. People have toured with and on everything imaginable so it's not impossible to tour with gearing that high but I doubt it would be very fun at times. Everything is a trade off, on the flats and downhills you'll be the man but when it comes to the hills (unless your name is Lance) you might as well pull out a skirt. I've ridden some big hills on my road bike with road gearing and they had me on my knees in no time.
Yeah...it definitely sounds like this isn't the way to go. The only thing I have in common with Lance is that...actually...I unfortunately have nothing in common with Lance.
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Old 03-17-10, 01:40 PM   #11
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I have learned that the biggest difference in what hubs, spokes and rims you should take comes down to the road condition. I am glad I have decent stuff, because those ripio (gravel) roads in Argentina and Chile can really rip apart inadequate gear, as I saw in many local cycle tourers using shoddy gear. I have most of my kit on the back rack also, and even those with heaps of gear in the front had rear wheel problems.

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