Gearing advice
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Gearing advice
Hi
I am looking to upgrade an old steel frame bike for light touring/long day rides in hilly areas.
I was hoping to keep the 6 speed thumb shifters.
What do you thing the ideal gearing combination would be. Here are my initial thoughts:
Chainrings: 22-32-44.
Freewheel: update the existing 14-28 freewheel by removing the 16T and add either a megarange 34 or 32T.
I am looking to upgrade an old steel frame bike for light touring/long day rides in hilly areas.
I was hoping to keep the 6 speed thumb shifters.
What do you thing the ideal gearing combination would be. Here are my initial thoughts:
Chainrings: 22-32-44.
Freewheel: update the existing 14-28 freewheel by removing the 16T and add either a megarange 34 or 32T.
#2
Macro Geek
Chainrings: 22-32-44.
Freewheel: update the existing 14-28 freewheel by removing the 16T and add either a megarange 34 or 32T.
Others who chime in may not agree with me. Gearing choices is very personal, and one of the topics that is frequently aired on this forum. If you are young, strong, in great shape with no previous knee problems, and are touring in places that are relatively flat and are not windy, you may not need to go quite as low.
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Acantor covered this so well there is really nothing more worth saying about it. But I will anyway.
Consider a 48/36/26 with a 32 max in the rear. I had that combo several years ago when I was 65 and was able to do a number of long 6% climbs with 40 pounds of gear aboard. And I am not a strong cyclist. That being said, I have since switched to the super low combo as I'm older and do tour occasionally where the grades exceed 6%. If I were younger and stronger, I wouldn't need gearing that low even for the steeper climbs. Be aware that with the 22/34 combo, you'll barely manage to stay upright. No faster than walking, maybe slower. You'll also tend to run out of high gears, especially with any sort of tailwind.
Strength, lung capacity, where you ride and how often, load carried, need for speed. All to consider when selecting a gear combo.
Consider a 48/36/26 with a 32 max in the rear. I had that combo several years ago when I was 65 and was able to do a number of long 6% climbs with 40 pounds of gear aboard. And I am not a strong cyclist. That being said, I have since switched to the super low combo as I'm older and do tour occasionally where the grades exceed 6%. If I were younger and stronger, I wouldn't need gearing that low even for the steeper climbs. Be aware that with the 22/34 combo, you'll barely manage to stay upright. No faster than walking, maybe slower. You'll also tend to run out of high gears, especially with any sort of tailwind.
Strength, lung capacity, where you ride and how often, load carried, need for speed. All to consider when selecting a gear combo.
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Thanks, I hadn't thought about the 26/36/48 (it may even be worth sticking to a standard 28/38/48 as they seem to be a lot cheaper).
Shimano do a 14-34 Megarange freewheel though I a bit concerned about the 24 to 34 jump.
I have also been looking (online) for cogs but can't find any! Ideally I would like to build my own freewheel.
In terms of bottom brackets, would you recommend a 118 or 122mm axle?
Shimano do a 14-34 Megarange freewheel though I a bit concerned about the 24 to 34 jump.
I have also been looking (online) for cogs but can't find any! Ideally I would like to build my own freewheel.
In terms of bottom brackets, would you recommend a 118 or 122mm axle?
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You'll need to look at the current derailleur setup on the bike and see whether the current derailleurs can handle your choice of gears. Your front derailleur needs the capacity to switch between your new high chainring and your new low chainring. More importantly, your rear derailleur must be able to handle your new big cog without rubbing against it, and it needs the capacity to take up excess chain through the increased range of gears. It probably won't be as simple as swapping crankset and cog and you're done.
If your current derailleurs won't handle the new gearing, you might have a hard time finding 6 speed components that will.
If your current derailleurs won't handle the new gearing, you might have a hard time finding 6 speed components that will.
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Hi
I am looking to upgrade an old steel frame bike for light touring/long day rides in hilly areas.
I was hoping to keep the 6 speed thumb shifters.
What do you thing the ideal gearing combination would be. Here are my initial thoughts:
Chainrings: 22-32-44.
Freewheel: update the existing 14-28 freewheel by removing the 16T and add either a megarange 34 or 32T.
I am looking to upgrade an old steel frame bike for light touring/long day rides in hilly areas.
I was hoping to keep the 6 speed thumb shifters.
What do you thing the ideal gearing combination would be. Here are my initial thoughts:
Chainrings: 22-32-44.
Freewheel: update the existing 14-28 freewheel by removing the 16T and add either a megarange 34 or 32T.
#7
Macro Geek
Be aware that with the 22/34 combo, you'll barely manage to stay upright. No faster than walking, maybe slower.
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I want my bike to work both unloaded and loaded.
1. I want to ride middle middle loaded and just cruising. (36-38 middle ring)
2. I don't want to spin out easily unloaded. (46-48 big ring)
3. For the little ring pick known hill with known grade and figure out what you need to spin up it.
Mega's are icky. 13-30 or 12-28 7speed free's FTW. So many shops have 7 speed free's to service all those walmart bikes. 6 speed are kinda rare.
1. I want to ride middle middle loaded and just cruising. (36-38 middle ring)
2. I don't want to spin out easily unloaded. (46-48 big ring)
3. For the little ring pick known hill with known grade and figure out what you need to spin up it.
Mega's are icky. 13-30 or 12-28 7speed free's FTW. So many shops have 7 speed free's to service all those walmart bikes. 6 speed are kinda rare.
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This is silly. Even at 60 rpm, you will be moving at 3 mph. At a more reasonable 80-90 rpm, it's 4-5 mph. With practice, it's not tough to keep the bike upgright at those speeds, and there's no way you can you can walk up a steep hill pushing a heavy bike at those speeds. I'm not saying everyone needs that low of a gear, but the "faster to walk" argument holds no water.
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With a 44 /11 you will spin out at 26-mph at 90 rpm. I was at a collegate criterium yesterday and the Catagory A's only averaged 24 mph for the 45 minute event. I'd be happy with 26 mph!
I agree with stedalus-- 22/34 is pretty stable and sure beats waking (ang pushing) up the hill.
As you can tell I run a 44/31/22 with an 11-34 on my touring bike.
I agree with stedalus-- 22/34 is pretty stable and sure beats waking (ang pushing) up the hill.
As you can tell I run a 44/31/22 with an 11-34 on my touring bike.