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  1. #1
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    Should I get this used Cannondale T2000

    So this guy has a used Cannondale T2000, around 10 years old, and he is willing to let it go for $450. The parts are still original I think (saw a XTR and 105). It looks pretty beat up, with scratches around the frame. Also, it's a little too small for me--there's a 3 inch top-tube / inseam gap. Comments?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaseghi View Post
    , it's a little too small for me--there's a 3 inch top-tube / inseam gap. Comments?
    A bike that doesn't fit is worthless to you.

    Top-tube / inseam gap is not a great way to size bikes, but -- you could be right. The bike could be too small.

    If you don't know how to size bikes, you should shop with someone who does know, or go to a bike shop you trust.

    A bike with scratches is no problem; a "beat up" bike is.

  3. #3
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    I think it's a decent shape. Hm. If I adjust the stem and the seatpost, can it mediate the problem?

  4. #4
    Senior Member rothenfield1's Avatar
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    You can 'dial-in' the fit of a bike that feels a little too big or too small to match your personal riding style, but you are going to regret trying to make a bike that wasn't meant for you fit by changing the stem and seatpost. The best way to know is to ride it, of course. But, even that can be deceptive to the inexperienced rider. If you have a bike that you feel fits you well, then use that as your guide. If your unsure, I don't think the Cannondale touring geometry has changed over the years, see if there is a dealer in your area that has one and take it for a test ride. Besides, I don't think that 450 is that great of a deal for this bike, especially if you don't think it's your size.

  5. #5
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    Oh really? 450 is not a good deal? Hm. I thought it was very good. Hm.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaseghi View Post
    Oh really? 450 is not a good deal? Hm. I thought it was very good. Hm.
    I'm wondering why you're asking then.

  7. #7
    Senior Member BigBlueToe's Avatar
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    The price sounds good, but if it doesn't fit you don't want it. Do you have any family members or good friends you want to tour with who are the right size?

  8. #8
    It's true, man.
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    It may be a reasonable deal for your wallet and your market, but for my '94 T1000, which had fewer than 100 miles on it and was mechanically and cosmetically perfect (and fit me), I paid less than you're considering.

  9. #9
    Canadian Chick Aquakitty's Avatar
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    The value may be there but you are saying it's too small and its beat up! Makes no sense to me why you are asking... why would you buy a bike too small in the first place. $450 is kind of the higest price for any bike 10 years old IMO... unless it is something seriously high end.

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    So what should be the price? How much did you get the T1000 for? I was thinking that I could either adjust it, or resell it.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaseghi View Post
    So what should be the price? How much did you get the T1000 for? I was thinking that I could either adjust it, or resell it.
    I think, in good condition, it's "worth" between $200 and $500. It's so hard to tell from your skimpy description -- and you did say it was "beat up." The problem is that on a 10-year-old bike you will always be competing with a "garage queen" of similar age that was only ridden a few hundred miles and put away in excellent condition.

    It seems to me that you are looking for people on this forum to say it's a great deal, go ahead and buy it. It's not a great deal; it's an OK deal *if* it fits you; *if* it's in good condition; and *if* it's a bike you've always wanted. I don't think any of those things apply in this condition, and at $450 I don't see how you could resell it at a profit.

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    Yeah, I think I need to check out the condition of it again. And see whether I can get the price down.

    Alright a few random questions. Haha..

    Anyone has a general idea about how much it would cost to build a bike, if I already have a frame, RD, FD, Chain, Hubs, cranks and pedals? I'm going for a durable, but towards the lower-end of stuff.

    Oh, and I read that this bunch of people are going on the Silk road with modified Jamis Coda Sports (lower gears, different tires). What do you guys think?

    Thanks guys!

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    Don't buy it if it doesn't fit.

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    Canadian Chick Aquakitty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaseghi View Post
    Yeah, I think I need to check out the condition of it again. And see whether I can get the price down.

    Alright a few random questions. Haha..

    Anyone has a general idea about how much it would cost to build a bike, if I already have a frame, RD, FD, Chain, Hubs, cranks and pedals? I'm going for a durable, but towards the lower-end of stuff.

    Oh, and I read that this bunch of people are going on the Silk road with modified Jamis Coda Sports (lower gears, different tires). What do you guys think?

    Thanks guys!

    Well you mean just components, no frame or bags or racks? Around $600-700 for middle of the road stuff if you go for a nice saddle like a brooks and already have a frame. You can save if you look for deals or used stuff obviously. probably cheaper just to buy a bike from bikes direct.

    A good starting point is just look at a few build kits from online stores and price it out.

  15. #15
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    Oh, yeah, that reminds me, I do have a Brooks saddle already. And I have racks (for 26" though), and a set of front panniers. My rear panniers are all ripped up. They have holes in them and one of them has a huge gash across. Ortliebs..

  16. #16
    Senior Member Ruffinit's Avatar
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    As they've been trying to tell you, it's not a good deal if it doesn't fit and a touring bike will be taller than a road bike or mtb for the same person. From what you're saying, it is too small.

    If you're buying it for the componentry, you can do so, buy another C'dale frame stripped and use these components (assuming they're in good mechanical shape) to build it out. The T1000 will have a good wheelset and other components suitable for a good touring bike; so the question back to you would be are the components worth $450 to you plus another 100-150 for an additional frame? Cheap wheels do not equal touring wheels, so keep that in your equation.
    K.I.S.S.

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  17. #17
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    I checked it again and the stand-over was more like 3cm, or 1.15 inches. Still too much? The top tube slopes downwards so I got confused. Hm.. I checked through a little more thoroughly this time and everything looks in shape. Ride-worthy I think. Around what price range should I aim for if I want to bargain it down?

    Alternatively, I can get another LHT frame and build it up. If I stick with the Surly Complete stock parts, but use my own FD, RD, chain, cranks, saddle, and hubs, any general idea what it may cost (excluding frame/fork)?

    Or I can just get a cheapass bike off craigslist to last me a few years, then get a serious touring bike when I am making more cash. haha..

    edit: any idea where on the frame to check the year and the size?

    edit: oh, and my tubus cargo is for 26" wheels. Is it impossible to fit it onto a 700c?
    Last edited by Gaseghi; 08-02-10 at 02:33 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaseghi View Post
    I checked it again and the stand-over was more like 3cm, or 1.15 inches. Still too much?
    1 inch is not "too much".

    The problem isn't "too much" standover clearance; it's "too little".

    You need to have some stand-over height (clearance between your pubis bone and the top-tube. That is, if you have some clearance, then look at things like the top-tube length (and ignore the stand-over height).

    Quote Originally Posted by Gaseghi View Post
    The top tube slopes downwards so I got confused. Hm..
    The stand-over height is measured at the middle of the top-tube. In my opinion, you want to pay attention to the clearance of the front half of the tube (really, about the quarter that starts at the mid-point going forward. (You don't have to worry about the clearance near the seat tube or near the head tube.)
    Last edited by njkayaker; 08-02-10 at 03:08 PM.

  19. #19
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    You don't need a special bike for touring. You need a bike that you like to ride, and are happy riding for long enough miles on, and that can carry a reasonable load. For a lot of bike commuters, their regular old daily ride will do the job just fine. If you're car-free, your regular bike will do the job. The point where you might need to go bike shopping is if you mostly race or do club rides and can't fit a rack on there for love or money.

    Most racks will easily fit on wheels ranging from 26" to 29"... wide tire 700c wheels are often called 29".

    For panniers... are you happy with how the Ortleibs have worked? If they have been good buddies and faithful friends for dogs years, patch 'em up as best as you can, maybe wrap your stuff in stuff sacks or garbage bags, and give them one big trip. Duct tape, needles and thread are your friends here. If you hate them and would rather light them on fire than use them again, I'd look around for panniers that address the stuff you hate.

    That $450 will vanish pretty quick if you don't have camping gear and want it... And it'd buy a lot of food, camping sites and motel rooms on the road. If money is tight, I would not be in any kind of hurry to spend on the bike if there's other stuff you would need for a tour.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaseghi View Post
    I checked it again and the stand-over was more like 3cm, or 1.15 inches.
    If you are trying to judge the fit of a bike by standover height, you have no business picking out a bike for yourself.

    I said this (a tiny bit nicer) earlier in this thread; I'm now saying it more directly. You seem to be hell bent on buying this bike. Have fun. I'm outta here.

  21. #21
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    Good advice, njkayaker, I'll take another look.

    Oh, my ortliebs are gone. -_- They had been good to me. I don't have a bike now, and almost definitely need one within the next two months, so I'm just gauging my options. Hmm..

    So what price would be reasonable for the Cannondale? I think the LHT build will put me back around 400? Hm, I can get the LHT frame and fork for around 300 as a crash replacement I think. Or just a ~$50 bike off craigslist.
    Last edited by Gaseghi; 08-02-10 at 05:17 PM.

  22. #22
    Senior Member Ruffinit's Avatar
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    I'm going to go against the flow here and say that the standover height is just about right. Because of the characteristics of road touring, the bike should be an inch or so taller than a road bike. That being said and all other points being in good condition, I would work with the guy and see if he'll let you take it out for a decent ride. 20 miles should tell you whether it's a good fit; whether you're stretched out too much or bunched up. Take note of the shifting and the ride. All in all I wouldn't discount the cost of a bike simply based upon the age. My touring bikes are over 20 years old. The real point of the matter is does it do what it was intended to do when it was built and secondly will it do what you want it to do. It will stand or fail on it's own merit. $450 wouldn't make me shy away from the top of the line C'dale. After you take it for a ride, try working on $350 and settle on $400 if he's tough. (don't do it while you have a grin on your face from the ride high though)

    Go here to find out about the serial number and look it up in the catalogue once you decypher the year:

    www.vintagecannondale.com
    K.I.S.S.

    '86 Bridgestone T700, '85 Colnago International, '85 BH Vento, '89 Schwinn Traveler, '86 Schwinn High Sierra, '75 C. Itoh Super Light

    Cannondales:
    '97 Silk Road, '88 ST700, '88 SR700

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruffinit View Post
    I'm going to go against the flow here and say that the standover height is just about right.
    I don't think anybody is saying the standover height is wrong. As long as there is some standover height, standover height isn't very important. The OP is "obsessed" with standover height and not concerned about the reach (or toptube length).

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruffinit View Post
    Because of the characteristics of road touring, the bike should be an inch or so taller than a road bike.
    I'm assuming you mean that the handle bars should be an "inch or so" higher.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaseghi View Post

    edit: oh, and my tubus cargo is for 26" wheels. Is it impossible to fit it onto a 700c?
    I bought a Tubus Cargo for 26" wheels for a 700C LHT on touringstore.com recommendations and it fit perfectly. I've since had a couple of lower bars and struts added to it for a lower installation so I can ride with milk crate on top and panniers on the bottom. It now sits on a 26" wheel LHT.

    Regarding the rest of your queries on prices and such for a 10yr old bike I don't think there's enough first person information on the condition of the bike to render a judgement and your intentions are kind of all over the map what you want to do. If you want to buy a bike why the heck are you considering reselling it? Also the lack of clarity of standover height, 3" or 1.5" kind of tells me providing feedback is of limited use with such unclear perceptions on your part.

  25. #25
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    Hm, yeah, definitely need to try to ride it. Hm. Did the rack have enough space for decent fenders?

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