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Old 08-03-10, 05:43 AM   #1
KonAaron Snake 
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It's done! My Koga-Miyata just got its finishing piece

It took me a while to do this one...and I was waiting on the low riders for months...but I think it was worth the wait.

I present to you...my 1991 Koga-Miyata Traveler:




















I used most of a 105 triple group...which means I'll need to change the 3rd ring and rear cassette for true loaded touring. Modolo bars and stem...Dia-Compe 982 Gran-Compe cantis...Brooks copper B-17...Campagnolo Athena seat post...tubus stainless steel racks...Honjos...and a few random things here and there.
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Old 08-03-10, 07:12 AM   #2
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Could you show how the front low rider rack works? i.e. with a pannier on it? Thanks
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Old 08-03-10, 07:29 AM   #3
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Absiolutely...I'll post a shot tonight...

I have a pretty extreme angle on it because the skewer neccessitated it.
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Old 08-03-10, 07:30 AM   #4
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I was wondering the same thing, shouldn't the top support be level with the ground?

By the way, nice bike.
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Old 08-03-10, 07:48 AM   #5
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I positioned the thumb paddle on my identical bell such that the thumb pad is parallel to the ground, and thus close enough to the bar that I can flick it while in the tops.
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Old 08-03-10, 07:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclist2000 View Post
I was wondering the same thing, shouldn't the top support be level with the ground?

By the way, nice bike.
I would have liked to have done it that way, but it wasn;t possible. The site I bought them from also mentions that angled set up isn't an issue, and I put some medium sized panniers on it last night as an experiment, and it seemed to work fine (granted empty and without being ridden). I've actually seen them angled before on other bikes.
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Old 08-03-10, 07:57 AM   #7
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Front Lowrider

Looks like you would want to move the front rack so that one of the eyelets just ahead and above the skewer is move down to fasten to the braze-on behind the skewer. Then the brace to your fender should attach to the eyelet you are currently using to connect to the fork. The rack should then clear the skewer and sit behind it. Then move the upper cross brace to the lower connection point and your rack should be way closer to horizontal.
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Old 08-03-10, 08:01 AM   #8
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I tried that and it didn't clear the skewer...I'll play with it a little more, but this is the best position I was able to find. I also don't see a problem with having an angle to it.
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Old 08-03-10, 08:20 AM   #9
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Definetly on the wrong eyelet. Not sure whether that is a "problem" or not, but it is hard to see how the attachments would be properly loaded. Might work reasonably well with the plastic hardware newer paniers have but it would load mine at a single stitch rather than spreading the load over many stitches.

I don't see anything weird enough about your fork to justify that angle. You have such a nicely appointed bike the rack thing would drive me crazy.

http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS...20Rack%202.jpg
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Old 08-03-10, 08:25 AM   #10
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Like this. Attachment should easily clear skewer.

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Old 08-03-10, 08:28 AM   #11
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I follow what you're saying (I think)...I can;t view my photos of the bike at work, and I don't have it in front of me. I'm fairly sure I have the fenders to the eyelet in that link. I'll play a bit more tonight and see if I can find a better position. Everything I read said not to worry about an angle (including at the touring store), so I didn't want to rearrange the fenders.

I did buy these racks at the touring store...and am very glad I did.
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Old 08-03-10, 08:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake View Post
Everything I read said not to worry about an angle (including at the touring store), so I didn't want to rearrange the fenders.
I doubt they are talking about tilt that severe. For clarification, check out the installation instructions at:
http://www.tubus.com/images/stories/...aergo_nova.pdf

Pretty bike btw.
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Old 08-03-10, 08:39 AM   #13
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Thanks all...i will work on it tonight and report back with progress.
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Old 08-03-10, 09:07 AM   #14
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Agree on rack angle - that just doesn't look right. Depending on the pannier attachment system the angle may put more force on the downslope attachment point than it likes. I know one of my panniers would grumble about that angle of carriage.

Somewhat related to this thread, does anyone know of a decent quality low rider front rack which is designed to work with forks that have an eyelet both fore and aft of the skewer? Few forks have the extra forward eyelet, and it seems most rack makers don't bother providing extra mounting holes as a result. I'd like to replace my ageing Blackburn lowriders on my 84 Miyata 1000 with a rack that sensibly allows me to use the fork's front eyelets for the rack, and rear eyelets for my fender stays.
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Old 08-03-10, 10:06 AM   #15
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As others have said, you mounted the rack incorrectly.

mount the front rack mounting holes to the rear fork eyelets.

It will work, I promise.

The bike is lovely! Nice build, it deserves a level rack

Last edited by positron; 08-03-10 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 08-03-10, 10:12 AM   #16
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What's that on the driveside cs? Is that a protector?
Nice bike by the way, love it...
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Old 08-03-10, 10:20 AM   #17
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The rear eyelet has the fenders attached to it. I will play with this again when I get home...maybe both can share an eyelet.

Crimson...yes, it's a guard against chain slap...the Miyata 1000s had them too.
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Old 08-03-10, 10:21 AM   #18
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To clear your QR skewers, your rack Should be mounted a bit further outboard,
away from the dropout eyelet but bolted to it. ..
You need some tube stand-off spacers, about an inch/25mm long and longer bolts.
aluminum is a good material for the spacers ...

use one of the 2 holes forward , above the weld joint for the ovaled brace, then mount the mudguard strut
where you currently have the rack mounted to the fork eyelet.

there are 2 sets of places to screw the top bar tube at the front ,
onto the hoop, rest of the rack.
and 2 places to bolt the rear of the top tube of the rack to the fork.

you should be able to level the rack, then.
you may want to add a spacer to the mid fork mount also.

the rack tubes should be as wide at the back as they are at the front, parallel to each other.

Last edited by fietsbob; 08-03-10 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 08-03-10, 10:25 AM   #19
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why don't you use pitlock scewers instead of quick realase.
lovely bike though ride safe and enjoy really nice job.
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Old 08-03-10, 10:45 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake View Post
The rear eyelet has the fenders attached to it. I will play with this again when I get home...maybe both can share an eyelet.
mount the rack to the frame using the front holes on the rack.
mount the fenders to the rack using the back holes on the rack.

The holes you are currently using to mount the bottom of the rack, were actually designed as points to mount fenders... Not for attaching the rack to the fork.
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Old 08-03-10, 10:51 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
To clear your QR skewers, your rack Should be mounted a bit further outboard,
away from the dropout eyelet but bolted to it. ..
You need some tube stand-off spacers, about an inch/25mm long and longer bolts.
aluminum is a good material for the spacers ...

wrong answer. you do not need 1 inch spacers to properly mount this rack... that would be a recipe for broken bolts. (assuming you could even spread the rack by 50mm- which i highly doubt.)

When correctly mounted, the rack's tubing will be behind the skewer (see picture in post #10). You might be limited with the position/angle of the quick-release lever (ie: it might point to say 2-3 o'clock when clamped shut) but this is inconsequential as far as function of the QR is concerned....

look at pic in post 10.
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Old 08-03-10, 11:05 AM   #22
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It shouldn't be problem mounting both the rack and the fender mounts to the same eyelet (though not required with this particular rack. Most people report that they can get a solid rack attach even if the eyes on the fender struts are just looped and not welded. I prefer to replace the looped eye with solid ends by welding on a fitting or brazing the eye full of silver and then shaping it.
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Old 08-03-10, 11:24 AM   #23
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I use 8.8 tempered steel 5x.8mm bolts and have never had a problem, there are a number of different steels used for bolts ,
the type of bolts used to hold the cylinder head onto the engine block is a lot stronger than the steel used to hold the taillight lens on.

My '04 Koga Miyata WTR a Factory assembly , uses aluminum tube spacers at top and bottom of the rack , Tubus Ergo, same rack basically just CroMo, powder coated and has a OEM special made 2nd KS mount under the left lowrider
to stabilize the load on the wheel when the main KS is used.


how long the spacer [a thick flatwasher essentially] is dictated by the width of the top front of the load tube to hoop width .

having the load plane for the panniers horizontal and parallel is the goal.

My prior One Off , touring bike has Bruce gordon's racks, I made Aluminum spacers out of solid stock for the setup.
getting the load rail away from the fork blade makes hanging the bags on them a simpler task,

particularly if you need to use rain covers they will hook on better with some space for the elastic.

Last edited by fietsbob; 08-03-10 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 08-03-10, 12:47 PM   #24
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Haha! We definitely need to get together sometime!
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Old 08-03-10, 04:13 PM   #25
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Everyone...thanks for the help!!! Moving it to the same eyelet with the fender was easy with a spacer...I thought it would be challenging, but no problems at all...

Here it is:







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