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  1. #1
    Master of the Universe Angus37's Avatar
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    Cable routing on MTB conversion

    In the final process of an MTB to drop bar conversion with bar end shifters...if anyone has done this please chime in.

    Most of the pictures I have seen have run the shifter cables out the end of the drop and to downtube cable stops. I'd like to route mine along the top inside of the bar (double-grooved for cabling), and I don't have downtube stops. Mine are on the top tube. I should also add that I'm adding cross levers as well, in the event that it helps with the picture.

    Has anyone done this? Could you post pics please?

  2. #2
    Bicycle Lifestyle AsanaCycles's Avatar
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    look thru this stuff:

    "I beg you more MosterCross"
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...t=monstercross
    on the first page there is an orange Karate Monkey then further down a Voodoo... top tube routing

  3. #3
    17yrold in 64yrold body
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    Might not be too clear in this photo, but I did just what you are talking about. MTB, drop bars, with bar end shifters. Have top tube cabling. Ran the casings under my bar wrap, and needed extra length for it to work. Used some bulk Jagwire casing I got from Loosescrews.com, If I remember correctly. Works great, and solved a FD problem I had with brifters and XT FD.
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    Master of the Universe Angus37's Avatar
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    Excellent. The mtbr forum has some good examples, kind of tough to see like in badamsjr's photo, but I think I can see enough to go for it.

    BTW badamsjr...you've got a lot of clearance between your fender and your fork crown. Any issues getting that to fit nicely?

  5. #5
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    My 1987 Cascade came with downtube stops... you can use a clamp on down tube stop if your bike was not equipped with braze ons.

    Will be re-wrapping my bars so that the shifter cables lie under the wrap for a few inches just like I have them set up on my folder... it has a continuous run of cable housing to the rear d which keeps the cable protected from moisture and dirt and the front cable has a stop that I integrated into my kick stand but will be brazing on some proper stops tomorrow.


  6. #6
    Master of the Universe Angus37's Avatar
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    Sixty Fiver, I originally thought about getting a clamp-on downtube stop. But my concern was where I would route the cable from the stops to the derailleurs, as I had no cable stops along the preferred route (such as along the chainstay for the RD). Do they have clamp-on stops that would fit in these other places?

    I still might be willing to consider it. Right now I'm trying to keep things cheap to make sure I like the bike and if I do, then I'm willing to fork out a little more.

  7. #7
    fks
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    Top Tube Cable Routing

    Here is a photo of my tourer, top tube routing with Cyclocross levers. I had to get tandem length shifter cables to route them under bar tape.
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    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I run My Bar end shift cable under the tape until the brake lever band clamp, and then, when the tape wrap is interrupted any how,

    the cable exits the tape job on the inside of the bar/brake band, and then is routed to the top tube housing stop.

    (or down tube stop, on other bike**

  9. #9
    for affordable housing
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    Would running the shifter cable housing under the bar tape the entire way cause problems? I prefer to have minimal things dangling off my handlebars (I'm a bit of a klutz and would no doubt catch things on the excess housing) and this seems like it'd be ideal.

    EDIT: fks seems to have answered my question. Thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by colombo357 View Post
    Hey you need to put on the bar tape. Please promise me via PM that you will put on the bar tape, because if you don't, you won't have any bar tape on your bars, and that'd be bad because you're supposed to have bar tape on your bars where the bar tape goes.

  10. #10
    17yrold in 64yrold body
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    Angus37: When I decided to go for a disc brake fork, I bought a 29er fork to lift my bars a little, and relax the steering. With a disc, brakes were no problem, but I had to make a 'bracket' to mount the fender. Works fine, just looks a bit 'off'.
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    Last edited by badamsjr; 08-06-10 at 08:54 PM.

  11. #11
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angus37 View Post
    Sixty Fiver, I originally thought about getting a clamp-on downtube stop. But my concern was where I would route the cable from the stops to the derailleurs, as I had no cable stops along the preferred route (such as along the chainstay for the RD). Do they have clamp-on stops that would fit in these other places?

    I still might be willing to consider it. Right now I'm trying to keep things cheap to make sure I like the bike and if I do, then I'm willing to fork out a little more.
    That would be problematic... not having any lower guides.

    Did not get my cable guides brazed in but did get my brake work done so now I am running cantis... with all the torch work the bike is getting itwill need to be repainted and figure I will add the cable braze-ons after it gets stripped and sandblasted.

  12. #12
    17yrold in 64yrold body
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    4000Miles: I think the trick for running housings under your wrap is to get lined housings. A bit more pricey to start, but worth it (IMHO) for ease of shifting. Of course, as fks pointed out, longer cables may be needed. I get bulk-length housing from Loosescrews.com, and it is occasionally on sale, in different colors.

  13. #13
    Master of the Universe Angus37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fks View Post
    Here is a photo of my tourer, top tube routing with Cyclocross levers. I had to get tandem length shifter cables to route them under bar tape.
    Hoping you would chime in fks, I've seen that shot of your bike and feel like it's exactly what I'm trying to do. Would you happen to have any other pictures of your handlebar setup?

  14. #14
    fks
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    Angus 37,
    Unfortunatley that is the only close up photo In have of the H-Bar setup.

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