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? RE touring bike brakes

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Old 09-29-04, 10:34 AM
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? RE touring bike brakes

I'm in the process of building a new touring bike based on the Surly trucker frame. This frame can accomodate either linear pull or cantilever brakes. i'm wondering what experienced tour riders would recommeded for fully loaded touring?

I've done a long tour in Europe using a mountain bike with standard, pre V-brake cantilevers and that worked fine. For the new bike I've ordered the Shimano 105 group so I'll have linear pull road brakes available. I'm running these on my single speed and they've got plenty of bite...but then again that bike is light as a feather.

So, should I use the 105 linear pull brakes on my touring bike or sell them and use cantilever brakes instead? If you think cantilever is the way to go, perhaps you can suggest a favorite make/model. Thanks for your help people.
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Old 09-29-04, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Yuri Springer
For the new bike I've ordered the Shimano 105 group so I'll have linear pull road brakes available.
So, should I use the 105 linear pull brakes on my touring bike or sell them and use cantilever brakes instead?
I'm a bit confused by your 105 linear pull road brakes. I thought 105's were standard road calipers which will not fit on your trucker.
Are you running STI's or separate levers and bar end shifters?
In any event, if you're running either lever, you'll do fine with standard canti's. But they do not provide enough cable pull for linear pulls (V-brakes) unless you use gizmos such as the travel agent.

George

Last edited by roadfix; 09-29-04 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 09-29-04, 10:59 AM
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Er, well I am a little confused from your "terminology" but let me see if I can set this straight....

As far as I know, Shimano makes no "linear-pull" brakes (as in v-brakes) for their 105 gruppo. The 105 brakes would be short reach dual-pivot caliper brakes; wonderful for roadbikes - poopy for fenders, tire clearance, etc. This would not be the option you would want, as well as the fact that you would not be able to use these brakes on your frame.

A typical center-pull cantilever (normal canti's) is what has been traditionally used for touring, cyclocross, and mtb's up until recently. These brakes work wonderfully when set up correctly, which may be difficult depending on your model. They provide a good deal of modulation, tire-fender-mud clearance, and work correctly with typical road bike aero and STI/Ergo levers.

Your typical V-brake (linear-pull) will not work correctly with the aforementioned brake levers for reasons of cable pull. You will need to get an adapter to solve this problem. Many people use these as an option on the bikes, which leads to it really being a personal preference. An exceptionally well set-up v-brake will likely have more stopping power than is needed for a relatively narrow patch of tire on the ground.

The first picture is the 105 caliper, the second is a set of XT v-brakes, the third is the new Shimano cantilever.
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Old 09-29-04, 11:21 AM
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Ah, I see the error of my ways...and terminology. Thanks for the clarification. Guess I'll have to sell the 105 calipers and get some cantilever brakes. I'm currently running STI's with V-brakes/travel agents on my old touring bike. I'm going to run STI's on the new bike but would move away from V-brakes if that meant I could avoid the need for accessories to pick up cable slack. Thanks again for the guidance.
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Old 09-29-04, 12:17 PM
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You can use mini V brakes with drop bar levers. Tektro make one (917A). It may create problems of interference with fenders/rack, so take care.
On my tourer, integrating the cantelevers, ergolevers and front dynamo lamp is a big problem. The cables all interfere, rub, catch and stress. No-one seems to make decent long cable hangers and lamps mountings are not designed for brazed fork crowns. Im sure mini Vs would alleviate some of these issues.
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Old 09-29-04, 03:27 PM
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Hi,
you can use standard (57mm) calipers. Like these... https://rivendellbicycles.com/webalog/brakes/15094.html
I'd try and find 'em used before paying that kind of money.
You can't use really big tires with these. If you want fenders, 28c is about as big as you can fit. And they don't stop quite as good as a good canti. I used them for years, they were certainly adequate; and they look nicer. (Truth in advertising moment- both my bikes now use cantis)
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Old 09-29-04, 04:18 PM
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My LBS reccomended Paul component brakes when I was building my touring bike. They have lots of room for fenders, big tires, etc and have been worth the extra $$'s. Check out Paulcomp.com. Steve L.
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Old 09-29-04, 06:32 PM
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all my bikes have xt cantilevers. easy to maintain and adjust. sufficient braking
for most uses, although i'd like a little more stopping power on those steep
hills with a heavy load in the rain and/or snow.

next bike will have rear cantis and a front mechanical disc.
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Old 09-29-04, 09:07 PM
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Ran into the same situation recently. Bought a Bianchi Volpe a few months back and began to build it up with a 105 group. At the time, I knew zero about cantilever brakes which this particular bike uses.

Finally figured things out and realized that the rear brake had a busted spring. I bought some Avid Shorty 6 brakes and had a LBS install them recently. Very good grip even with the 105 STI shifters. However, the front brake squeals like a mofo. I had read about this problem with Avid Shortys. Now I can hear for myself.

I prefer standard road calipers, but cantilevers aren't too bad once you introduce yourself to them.
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Old 09-29-04, 11:08 PM
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If you want to tour with "real tires" and especially if you install fenders, the only sidepull brakes that work are old-style single-pivot sidepull brakes.

So your choice is basically between v-brakes and cantilever brakes. With STI, I would prefer cantis, because you avoid the costly and cable-eating Travel Agent.
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Old 09-30-04, 12:13 AM
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i forgot all about the bmx/freestyle brakes...

dia-compe bulldog (sidepull)

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

odyssey pitbull (centerpull) <---used this one on a recumbent, replaced the old
weinman sidepull for 27" wheel, when switching to a 26" w/1.9 tire.

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
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Old 10-01-04, 10:52 AM
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You may also want to sell the crankset if you got it as part of the 105 group. The rings are just too big for fully loaded touring which is what I suspect you will be doing as you are building a stout tourer. I have complained to Trek about this as they spec the 105 crankset on their 520 but I imagine their strings are pulled by shimano.
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Old 10-02-04, 08:14 PM
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I've set up two touring bikes, a hybrid with cantilevers and a drop bar road frame with V-brakes. Subjectively, the V-brakes stop better if adjusted properly, although I have trouble with the front brake squealing. The biggest difference I noted was that the cantilever yoke cables made it a little interesting fitting old Blackburn racks that secure to a brake bolt on the hybrid. I had to turn the steel strap over and put a U-shaped bend in it to go under the yoke. It would have been a happier fit on the bike with the V-brakes.
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Old 10-03-04, 07:14 AM
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I would second the XT cantilevers, In fact the older the better, the best set I have is a ancient pair of (c1986)534's that I got for $19 from Ebay. They keep thier adjustment and will stop a train. Prior to the XT's I had the Avid shorty's they lasted a season and then fell apart. the linear spring was a PIA when ever I took a wheel off. The only decent V-brakes I have used is the Avid Ultimates ($90 a pair) I have on my tandem they rival the XT cantilevers in stopping power
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