Looks like the relative length of the arms is shorter, which would correct for the lack of throw in the road levers, at the cost of some stopping power. But I don't know that there is any way around that short of something like the Pedersens that boost actual caliper performance. They point out that the smaller brake is more compact and easier to accommodate.
The hand and the lever produce a certain amount of mechanical advantage, and it is hard to play with that number and not affect something like modulation, or adjustment off the rims. The levers are hard to mess with because they are used from two positions which sorta triangulates their form. These Vs should work pretty well, but as the Irish say "he's no better than he should be".
Yeah, my understanding is that with road brake levers, v-brakes tend to have more stopping power but less modulation. I believe the vernacular term is that they feel "grabby" and can cause fork shudder.
Assuming you have cantis, you have a few options:
• Adjust the brakes properly.
• Get better brake pads.
• Get a better pair of cantis.
• Put one V-brake up front only.
FWIW I barely notice the difference between calipers and my Avid Short 4's when they are set up right.
Vintage Trek, Vintage Diamond Back Mountain Bike, Bianchi Axis CrossBike
Originally Posted by Bacciagalupe
I believe the vernacular term is that they feel "grabby" and can cause fork shudder.
On the contrary, many people change to V-brakes +with travel agents) or Mini-Vs (which don't need travel agents) to cure fork shudder. I haven't tried the TRP brakes myself but from their arm length, which is either 90mm or 95mm, I can surmise that they will need the pads very close to the rims. I use an 85mm mini-V that works really great though with campagnolo levers. Modulation is just fine and they have plenty of stopping power.