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Headset questions for new bike build

Old 04-05-11, 11:11 AM
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Headset questions for new bike build

I'm planning to build a new bike for century/light-touring duties based on a Surly Cross Check frame. I've got most of the components worked out except for the headset for which the whole subject is a bit murky to me. So, a few questions...

1. Do I need press-fit or drop-in for this frame?

2. I've had a good experience with Ritchey components on my road bike so is their Pro Cross headset a good choice? Others?

3. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I've done most of my own wrenching over the last couple of years. I feel comfortable installing all components except the headset. I've looked at repair books and the repair sites, but I don't really know if I should attempt this or not. Is this an area best left to the LBS or is this something I can learn and do?

Thanks
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Old 04-05-11, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dellwilson
I'm planning to build a new bike for century/light-touring duties based on a Surly Cross Check frame. I've got most of the components worked out except for the headset for which the whole subject is a bit murky to me. So, a few questions...

1. Do I need press-fit or drop-in for this frame?

2. I've had a good experience with Ritchey components on my road bike so is their Pro Cross headset a good choice? Others?

3. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I've done most of my own wrenching over the last couple of years. I feel comfortable installing all components except the headset. I've looked at repair books and the repair sites, but I don't really know if I should attempt this or not. Is this an area best left to the LBS or is this something I can learn and do?

Thanks
It's a press fit headset. In other words, a traditional headset but not an integrated one. The Cross Check comes with a Ritchey Logic headset. The Pro Cross doesn't look to me like it would work correctly for a traditional press fit. Try a Logic (~$20) or a Pro V2 (~$50). The Logic is steel while the Pro V2 is aluminum.
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Old 04-05-11, 12:58 PM
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Since you're "not a mechanic by any means", go to your LBS, buy an inexpensive HS, and have them install it for you.

A $150 HS won't work any better than a $50 HS (or even certain $25 HS).
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Old 04-05-11, 01:05 PM
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Chris King headsets are so nearly fit and forget, the only time afterwards,
to do something with them
is to have a bike shop remove it and fit on the next frame you buy.
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Old 04-05-11, 01:22 PM
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agree, this is a cheap thing for the lbs to do, no point in buying special tool to do it the one whopping time you'll do it a decade.
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Old 04-05-11, 01:26 PM
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Make sure to have the frame faced and chased. That is clean out the bb threads and face it and the head tube, so they are parallel with no exrta paint on them.
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Old 04-05-11, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by seeker333
...go to your LBS, buy an inexpensive HS, and have them install it for you.
+1. Installing headsets is the one thing I don't do. I tend to be quite particular with most parts, but when I buy a new frame I just ask the LBS to install the cheapest decent headset they have -- that's typically only $25 (Ritchey Logic most recently).

I do have a Chris King on one bike, and it is certainly a thing of beauty, but I've put many, many miles on the $25 headsets without doing a thing to them. (I do use fenders, and that goes a long way to protecting them.)
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Old 04-05-11, 04:09 PM
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Ok. Will do. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 04-05-11, 04:28 PM
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What kills loose ball headsets is getting loose, once in adjustment Get the lock nut TIGHT.
I use a steel lock nut with an aluminum top race when practical.
so there is no space to accelerate thru to bang the parts together.
sealed bearing headsets have the adjustment dealt with , within the bearing cartridge.
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